Long time on hardstand - what needs doing

[Wanderlust]

I have just paid a deposit on a 1983 Cavalier 975 that has been out of the water for the last 10 years. Cavalier is a well respected local builder in Australia. It looks to have been well supported in a solid frame and well cared for by a fastidious owner whose dream has been shattered. The survey is yet to be done, but it looks good, and I couldn't see any evidence of it being out of shape.

The motor runs well, and it appears to have been serviced, but the batteries need replacing. I will get the mast repainted and probably new rigging.

Before it goes back in the water, what should I replace/service? I can imagine seals may work fine initially, but then rapidly degrade. Things I am thinking of are:

• replace prop shaft seal
• check all thru-hull hoses
• toilet kit
• service winches
• reseal hatch covers
• engine service
• antifoul

Any ideas of what is else I should do?
l

[Talbot]

take anchor chain out and inspect. make sure it is marked so that you know what you have. renew the lashing at the end of the chain to the boat.
Clean anchor locker while chain is out of the boat.
service loo
replace all through hull hoses and clips (ensuring double clips below waterline).
service all bilge pumps
top up water tanks and sterilise fully, then pump out and rinse.
replace water pipes including air vent hoses, then refill with water.
Consider full replacement of gas lines and at least a proper leak test - consider adding a guage that allows you to check line for leaks
Consider changing cooker for a more modern design - the one onboard will probably only have a flame failure device on the oven. Modern cookers have flame failure on all and some even have a thermostat for the oven.

You say that you are looking at the rigging, dont forget the running rigging and sheets for main and genoa etc. Dont forget to check the mooring ropes (and the fenders)

pressure wash the windows to see if there are any leaks.

Most boats are a real come-in-handy heaven - good idea every ten years to take everything out of the boat and put it on the ground, only returning stuff you really need.

get new jackstays rigged - tape not wire.

I am sure others will think up other bits!!!! if you start now, you might be finished in about 18 months

[CSY Man]

Clean fuel tank / lines/ filters, etc.

[delmarrey]

I shall suggest washing down the deck around deck fittings to see if there is any sealing that will need to be done. Or, better yet, just pull them all and reseal. With 10 years of sitting I'm sure there will be a few. Sealant is only good for a few years. That includes winches and hatches.

I don't know what kind of deck coring a Cavilier has, but soft decks (rotten cores) is one main source for the death of boats............_/)

[Steve Kidson]

I have a Harley 32 on the hard, she has been out for about 2 years. I am fitting out and hope to be back in the water this summer.

My approach was to strip the interior almost to an empty shell, and start from scratch; this wasn't too difficult as there was little fitout in place.

I have made a point of replacing all hoses, servicing or replacing sea cocks, repairing any damage, rust, or potential problems inside of hull, and paint several coats of paint. I do not want to be doing again soon, I want to sail.

Use the best quality fittings you can afford; it will pay off in the long run.

Best of luck with your project.

Fair winds

Steve

[Bill Balme]

I too am looking at buying a boat that's been sitting on the hard for a couple of years.

I expect to have to go through all systems seals, etc. I'm going to put it in the water for a test sail - and provided I take ownership then, will sail it for the last part of this summer - which will allow me to evaluate all systems before working on it during the winter. (Hopefully nothing catastrophic is wrong with it such that the bugger will sink!)

I have a question though - what type of lubricants are best on a sailboat - for things like winches, windlass, furlers, etc., and for the small blocks and pulleys?

[Talbot]

best lubricant is not a straightforward answer - for eample some blocks furling gear etc may use hard plastic bearings and faces for which the best regiment is addidtion of washing up liquid,

For my winches and other metal bearing services, I have yet to find a better all purpose grease than Quicksilver GP marine grease with Teflon.

[Vasco]

Bill,

Lubricant for furlers depends on the type. Harkens need frequent flushes with fresh water (they have open nylon ( torlon?) ball races). ProFurls have sealed bearings and require no lubrication. In mast furling mains usually require a good fresh water flushing. For winches I use lithium grease (just a small amount like toothpaste) and three in one oil for the pawls. McLube is great for cars and sailtracks. I also use a drop of clear silicone lube (comes in a clear pen- like container that you squeeze) for sail slides and the groove in my headfoil. Light bulbs I coat with dielectric grease. Anchor shackles I coat with lanolin, same with the swages on my rigging. Battery terminals vaseline or Boshield. Head pumps vaseline or dielectric grease. Deckshoes mink oil.

[capt lar]

McLube is also what Harken now recommends for furler ( but still fresh water rinse is key ) capt. lar

[Steve Kidson]

How is your project progressing?? If its like mine, you start with plenty of energy and enthusiasm, and then when that wears off, the hard work begins.

Stay focussed, keep your eye on the end game, and try to do some work regularly.

Fair winds

Steve

[Wanderlust]

Thanks for everyone's feedback. I did proceed with the purchase after a glowing survey report.

It turns out that the previous owner always intended to get it back in the water, and kept up most of the required maintenance. One thing that has frozen up is the ball valves for the cockpit drains - frozen open. As all the other thru hull valves close, I was happy for it to be launched straight away - there is just a minor drip from the stuffing box.

Except I found the bilge pump isn't working!!!! Maybe just due to dead batteries. At least the hand one works, and new batteries go in tomorrow.

The electronics are mostly out, and I'm expecting a few issues there.

The hoses are all "food grade" quality, and are still flexible and reaonably transparent - so I might defer that job for a while. The deck looks like about 15 years younger than its age, having been under an awning all that time - by the way Delmarrey I believe it's solid GRP, not ply or foam - the manufacturer's brochure says "moulded decks". It all feels solid.

The mast is away being repainted and is due to be stepped in 2-3 weeks with new rigging - standing and running.

The 20 year old Avon inflatable still seems good, and holds pressure. I will test that on the water this weekend with the outboard. The diesel had a valve grind 6 months ago, and I need to run it a few hours before head tightening.

Fuel and water tanks were already cleaned.

Talbot, thanks for your checklist - gas fittings have not been looked at, so it will be a while before I turn that on. The stove is a Roden Horizon GH481 and I don't think it has the failsafe system for the top burners. The 50 metre 3/8 anchor chain looks perfect, with 35LB Plough - disconnected at present so I am using the secondary 27LB.

So for this weekend, I'm going to motor for a few hours and then retighten the head. After there has been time for a few teething problems to surface, I'll post a list of the things that came up that weren't obvious.