Leaky Teaky

[AussieGeoff]

Ack! I think I'm glad my decks are cement. I had contemplated planking it over, but I think I might leave well enough alone and settle for paint, possibly with some coarse grit mixed in for traction, unless there is some gotcha with that or there is a better way?

AussieGeoff

[zeehag]

you have solid decks, is not an intrusion to add teak--isnt screwed so much anymore as glued an d or epoxied. no leaks.

[Cheechako]

Originally Posted by AussieGeoff

Ack! I think I'm glad my decks are cement. I had contemplated planking it over, but I think I might leave well enough alone and settle for paint, possibly with some coarse grit mixed in for traction, unless there is some gotcha with that or there is a better way?

AussieGeoff

Sounds like you're a candidate for DuraBak

[AussieGeoff]

Originally Posted by Cheechako

Sounds like you're a candidate for DuraBak

Thanks for that! I'd never heard of it, but google is your friend. Might be just the ticket.

AussieGeoff

[Seasure Marine]

One needs to ascertain exactly what core was used in the original build, a recent example is a Formosa 51 which was purchased by clients and personal friends of mine.
Formosa indicated a plywood sandwich deck with GRP layup overlayed with teak planking and mechanically fastened.
The said deck leaked like a sieve and was very wet and spongy, particularly the side decks, probably due to the pronounced sheer.
All the teak planking was duly removed and a section of GRP was removed to reveal a soggy black mess of totally rotten timber which was not plywood at all, rather a mass of randomly sized blocks not dissimilar to a parquet floor!
Thus the decision was taken to cut away the GRP and remove the muck, however, keeping the inner skin of GRP as a base to work from.
Patterned marine ply sections were prepared in two layers of 6mm which were epoxy saturated, then epoxy bogged into place onto the inner skin of glass.
Once cured, a further 8 layups of quadaxial and biaxial cloth were laminated over the new base, extending some 50mm up the coachroof and bulwarks.
The last layup was done with peelply to create a fair finish allowing for priming and topcoating in white.
The end result is a vessel that is entirely dry and has incredibly stiff and strong decks. As a professional boatbuilder/restorer, I believe that anything short of the method mentioned would represent a ‘quick fix’ and as such would be an absolute wast of money, time and effort.
My sentiment is to survey thoroughly and know exactly what you are in for prior to purchasing a vessel disregarding whether the seller has had the matter attended to or not and if indeed such is the case, request all info on materials, methods and if at all possible, images of the project.
All the best to you in your search.
Michael.