leaky frameless windows in topsides

[neilpride]

Sika just do the job fine, if you use the primer, the adhesión is fairly strong and good for a bunch of years, i see some lexan Windows failing because they miss to put the UV protetcion tape around the perimeter of the window, this tape is essential to protect the caulking for termal expansión and contraction as well for the sun , so basically if you dont want screws or frames , gluing is the way to go,, if you try to glue the Windows leave it for a full day or night with clamps making a soft presure, next morning remove the clamps and done...

[phorvati]

Originally Posted by bcboomer

I can't imagine any way to reliably and permanently seal a flush window. I'd bite the bullet and put in New Found Metal portlights.
If you follow the installation shown by Maine Sail you can forget worrying about leaks. As a bonus you can open them for lots of fresh air.
I believe you have a balsa cored hull. If so, hopefully the portlight openings were isolated during construction.
Mine weren't and it was quite a challenge to get out all the damp balsa and replace it.
A sleek hull looks nice but not as nice as a leak proof one.

It will be hard to just replace these ports with the same crap that was there originally. It will leak again. So I buy the new found metals approach in terms of preventing water from entering the core.
So going forward with new found metals, the first issue is the latch collapsing when the waves come. These are not cabin top windows. They are in the hull so they spend time under water while heeled underway. This is a voyaging boat, so this could be weeks. So now I have to worry about the gasket and the latch and durability while under water. It would be nice to hear form folks that have these in their hull.
Second issue is interior. My teak spacer would have to be almost 1/2" If you look at the pics, I have vertical furring strips(they are teak but I dont know what else to callmthem) and then horizontal teak slats. So I cannot put the new found metals interior frame against the hull. It would have to come out flush with the finish slats. Which are probably 5/8" raised from the hull. So that spacer would have to carry a lot of compression.
And on the outside, the sleek look does not worry me, but i will have to take off and cut away parts of the teak rub rail. Which has to be done anyway. Its probably another source of water ingress. So this would significantly alter the look of an FD-12. All of a sudden you'll have this stainless frame typical of the newer tayanas. But on those, these frames are recessed. So Im afraid it might end up looking crappy.

[UNCIVILIZED]

Another option is to glue the ports in, in the same manner which kelp windows are mounted in the hulls of racing boats. They're glued into the hull to allow the crew to check the keel & rudder for kelp while underway, as dragging said plantlife is slow.

Regarding how ports or deadlights with stainless trim rings would look. Get some shiny, silver, metalized tape, & use it to mock up said rings. That way there won't be much question as to what they'll look like.

[Three Sisters]

Originally Posted by phorvati

I am looking for advice on how to approach fixing leaky hull windows. Boat is shrink wrapped for the winter. I have most of the windows removed and core around the frame cleaned out and drying. It was wet.
Just looking at how it was done, i fear the frameless exterior approach has no chance of being leak proof. If i chose new ports with exterior frame and interior frames, I will have to cut off sections of teak rub rail around the opening which I would like to avoid.

Hudson Force knocked out that job on his Morgan OI. And they look super

http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/...an-163659.html

[phorvati]

Originally Posted by Three Sisters

Hudson Force knocked out that job on his Morgan OI. And they look super

http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/...an-163659.html

They are above the chainplates. They don't really spend time under water any more than chainplates. I can't imagine him burying the chainplates while underway for significant amount of time. I'm leaning towayds new found metals, but I'd rather get permanent ones. No latch to break.

[phorvati]

So New found metals only makes opening portlights, they dont have fixed portlights. has anyone installed opening putlights into the hull or topsides? Like below gunvale. I am not interested in cabintop and coach-roof or cockpit.

New found metals through bolted frames and tempered glass are very rugged and great but these portlights could spend days underwater on offshore crossings. So opening portlights might not be so great. They said that unless someone opens them in submerged condition, they should be fine. As much as i'd like to take their word for it, I have 16 of them and at $300+ per, I'd like to at least see another boat with them in topsides.
On the other hand, I am realizing that I wont win the battle with current frameless approach with VBH tape or sealants from the inside. It might look like its leak free but over time its a loosing proposition and these leaks go right into the core.
So i am looking for any other ideas. Cutouts are 17-3/4" by 4". Not exactly standard.
also i am pretty sure i would not want aluminum frame or plastic frames spending days submerged.

[Colin A]

This thread made me curious how they install those big hull portlights/windows on new boats. Found this which looks useful.
http://www.acrylico.us/index.php/our...specifications

[bcboomer]

I have 4 NFM in my topsides and they haven't leaked while submerged. However I'm coastal so they have never been under water for more than a couple of hours. I'm confident they would be better than any alternative.

[phorvati]

Colin, those details are very informative, but I would not be looking at that for a reference. There is very little seaworthy about those boats. It is unlikely anyone would take that across the ocean.

bcboomer, are you happy with the new look of protruded frames? Oday probably didnt have that.

[UNCIVILIZED]

OP, have you spoken to any yards which build & repair boats of quality with ports similar to yours? Ditto regarding yards that do hull windows. Or even tourist submarines.

[bcboomer]

At first I was reluctant to install framed portlights because I liked the clean look of the flush ones. However it soon became obvious that I could have a clean look or no leaks. They are mutually exclusive.
I've become accustomed to the look and now find the more functional look appealing.
If you decide to go with NFM be sure to look at the compass marine instructions. PM me if you do and I'll tell you what issues I had and the solutions I found