Is this the correct plan of action for this Crown 23 hull?

[levidavidmurray]

I'm hoping to get a full understanding of what I'm working with here...

We purchased this little 1969 Crown 23, and just recently got it hulled out and pressure washed. I was hoping to have a few things clarified by a few better informed personalities—as I’m very new to all of this.


1. Are these white spots obvious blisters, or is puncturing them and checking for the vinegary-acidic mixture really the only sure way to tell? Will there be less obvious blisters (domed non-discoloured protrusions)?





2. Are the multiple layers and colours simply old paint layers that have been applied over the years? Is the bottom white layer the gelcoat?





3. Is this paint directly on the lead keel that’s peeling and chipped? Can I get away with stripping the existing paint and painting with ablative bottom coat we’ll be using for the rest of the hull?





4. There was a strip of caulking around where the keel and hull meet that peeled off like nothing. Should I remove the remaining caulking and apply a thickened epoxy run around the perimeter? Or should I remove the keel and apply an adhesive layer between the keel and hull?





5. Can I get away with simply stripping the existing paint on this rudder and using the same bottom coat? I’m unsure of what ideal rudder conditions look like.



Here's the current plan of action formed from various different resources:

- Strip existing paint layers down to the gelcoat (sand? chemical remover?)
- Grind back the blisters to an even and dry laminate layer
- Periodically rinse with fresh water
- Allow blisters ample time to dry out
- Re-laminate with epoxy, and alternating layers of woven and chopped-strand matting
- Fairing compound over cured laminate and smooth flush with the rest of the hull
- Sand cured fairing compound to a smooth finish
- Wipe down with acetone to ensure no particles are preventing adhesion
- 2-3 layers of ablative bottom paint (likely Pettit Hydrocoat)

Any insight is highly appreciated, or please let me know if I completely have the wrong idea altogether. Thanks, and fair winds!

[Allied39]

Just a little advice.
Woven roving is not a product that has any use on your vessel at any point in time.
Use Biaxial. 12oz or 17. I prefer 17oz.
Mertons fibreglass in MA is excellent source for system three resin which is all I use and he has glass as well. Mat backed biax for use with epoxy.

Good luck and have fun, you have a LOT of work ahead of you, and hard work only scares the weak.

This post is for the OP, not interested in arguing or dealing with the trolls.

[DefinitelyMe]

Yes those are layers of old paint. Yes pop/grind back the blisters. Depending on how deep they are you might not have to glass them, just grind (dremel works well for small ones), dry with acetone, fill and fair. Only the really deep ones really need to be reinforced with glass work.

If you plan to go right back to gel coat (yes, that's the white layer) then after fairing paint with several coats of epoxy barrier coat (something like interprotect 2000e or similar). If you went through the gel coat in some spots it doesn't matter. The barrier coat will seal it. Follow up with two coats of hard (not ablative) bottom paint as a tie and only then apply the ablative.

[DefinitelyMe]

If the keel isn't leaking it's probably ok. No don't use epoxy filler it's too brittle.

I think your keel might be iron, not lead, from looking at the photos. Either way it must be primed before bottom painting. If you barrier coat as I described above then that will do the trick.

I'd check that rudder carefully for cracks, often found at the trailing edge if there's a problem. It looks beaten up. If water is inside the rudder it's only a matter of time before the welds on the tangs attached to the stock give way and you lose steerage.