Having owned a Rob 35 [Teak hull], with
Teak decks, and another
Teak decked
sail boat, and being a Shipwright, who has worked on MILE'S of Teak deck's, i would firstly measure the thickness of the
deck, you need at least 1/2",if cupping is happening, it's to thin to save, and the fastening's that CheoyLee used is BRASS, not
BRONZE, they will be mush, if you are going to refasten, just drill into the
plug, if there still is one, with a counter sink,with a stop, so you don't drill to deep, dip the screw [stainless
steel is fine] in
epoxy set screw in place, and set a
plug over the top, as there will be
epoxy in the hole,after replacing all the screw's, you will probably need to recaulk, get a FEIN multi tool, they have RUBBER cutting blade's in 3 sizes, they are "U" shaped,you will save DAY'S with this tool, and do a better job than hand cuttinq, after removing the rubber where necessary, clean the side's of the channel with an abrasive, clean with Acatone, put a bond breaker in the bottom, to eliminate pullout from the sides, tape the edge, both side's, caulk,putty knife to make sure there is no void's, i like to tape the edge with 3 or 4 layer's, to obtain a ridge, which can be cut flush later, best not to sand, as you will lose thickness, i know it looks good, but only temporary, cut plug's with a sharp chisel, again best not to sand, and as a foot note,
Cheoy Lee used
Plywood in a
deck core, not foam, ect., i had been to their factory in
Hong Kong a number of time's, and lastly,lastly, DO NOT clean the decks with ANY brush, a mop works well, with some dish
washing soap in a bucket of
salt water,AND oiling only attracts dirt.