I need to replace a couple bits of teak on the cabin top. The ones that keep the compaionway sliding top in place. (whats the official name for that?)
I went to buy some teak and was amazed at the price. They also had some ipe so got that instead, 1/3 the cost. Very dense and HARD. Gonna need to get the table saw blade sharpened.
Just wondering if anybody has used it and how well it's holding up. I plan on treating it just like the teak.
very hard and heavy, hence the name " IRONWOOD" .never used it on a boat, however, small pieces shouldn't be a problem. use a new , cheap, framing blade on your saw, and keep the anglr of cut low. predrill and the rest is easy. will last the life of the boat with no finish. good luck
If you use good quality, thin-kerf carbide blades you will get great cuts and the blades will hold up fine. Pretend that you are cutting aluminum in that fasteners must have the same clearance or you will break the fasteners and/or drivers. You can cut with good quality reciprocating blades also.
If you like a darker wood that is strong and weighs less consider Peruvian walnut as well.
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I use the stuff. It is often used for decking and out door commercial grade furniture like benches.
I replaced the steps on my drop down boarding ladder.
You need to use carbide tipped tools for cutting and your drills will go dull too. And you have to pre drill and drill a clearance and pilot hole. But the material is guaranteed to last 20 years with no attention at all. It stays flat and goes gray. And it's very dense and heavy. For machined track / guides it's a good choice.
Location: Presently liveing and working in Pakistan
Boat: HT 26. Currently in Mallorca
Posts: 98
Don't do it,
If the rest of the hatch is teak, in a year or so you will regret it. Go and do it again but look for offcuts.
We built a whole hatch, from offcuts, with little dark joints between them, Jackie, Wife, then spent many weeks putting 8 coats of varnish, ( You dont actually have to do that with teak, But !!}She enjoyed it.