Visit our Popular Forums

Starboardyacht · 29-07-2014, 19:05

Greetings!
I'm working on a 35' boat that has been sitting a while. Looks like rain water flooded cockpit and leaked into cabin, now wood interior parts are stained & oily! Some of the easy stuff i will replace, other parts, like base of settee not sure what to do?
Paint it? Dark stain & varnish it? Attach new veneer ? Strike a match?

Scot McPherson · 29-07-2014, 19:09

Use your own stain and then oil it...

Scot McPherson
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk - now Free

SVTatia · 29-07-2014, 19:27

Have you checked to see if the wood is solid? Poke a screwdriver and if it does not get too far, the wood is good, and if they are, sanding and painting is the easy way. While you are at it, also check the bulkheads and verify if they too are still solid.

Starboardyacht · 29-07-2014, 19:51

Yup... It all feels solid....
Just looks & smells bad...
White paint?

s/v Breakaway · 29-07-2014, 20:21

Nothing will stick if you don't get all of the oil out of the wood. Probably need to use some stripper, or at least TSP.....?

**JPA Cate** · 29-07-2014, 23:42

Or use citrus strip.

If you try to sand it back to bare wood, you risk going through the veneer. But, IMO, use an ice pick, not a screwdriver. If the timber's rotten, it'll go way in. That is bad news.
I hope it's okay.

Creamy white paint looks very good belowdecks on sailboats.

Ann

weephee · 30-07-2014, 04:36

I had the same situation a few years back. I purchased a 27 foot Columbia which had 2 feet of fresh water in the cabin. The boat was on the hard and the hose had come off of one of the cockpit drains. The engine oil and lots of it was mixed with the water to stain everything at and below the water line. Lots of teak in this boat but there was no delamination even though the water was in the boat for a few months. First thing I did once the water was removed was to wipe off as much residue as possible using soap and water. When the interior was dried out I lightly sanded by hand the sole and the damaged area. Next I used diluted bleach and a stiff scrub brush on it, let it dry out and did it again with good results. Final light sanding and then hand rubbed urethane on the wood. There is still some evidence in places of a very light water line but the effort was well worth it rather than using paint. Hope this helps

Tx J · 30-07-2014, 04:53

The all-purpose cleaner "Simple Green" seems to clean almost everything.
I've used it to degrease/deoil things from engines to wood items. It's good on mold/mildew, oil, and everything in between. You can vary the concentration when you mix/dilute it.
Rinse and thoroughly dry, then prep and refinish normally.

Starboardyacht · 30-07-2014, 05:43

Pumped out water/oil yesterday, today gonna try spraying on degreaser as a test.... Really considering laminating a veneer on top of existing ... Thoughts on that?

Thanks to all for your time....

**a64pilot** · 30-07-2014, 05:50

I'd try cleaning in hidden spot first, veneer if properly applied should work, it's almost certainly veneer now isn't it?
Personally I'd paint as a last resort, but I guess I'm partial to the "teak cave" look.

SVTatia · 30-07-2014, 06:41

Quote:

Originally Posted by Starboardyacht

Pumped out water/oil yesterday, today gonna try spraying on degreaser as a test.... Really considering laminating a veneer on top of existing ... Thoughts on that?

Thanks to all for your time....

We would be better able to help if you can load some pictures.
If you re-veneer, would you do the entire section? Will the adhesive stick? Would you have to remove the old/current veneer? Would you be bale to match the grain/type and would there be a "border" of new/old veneer? These are questions that you have to think about. Again, pictures are worth....

gjordan · 30-07-2014, 22:58

Bleach is your friend. If the laminate hasnt started to come loose, then clean with bleach, rough brushes, and lots of ventilation. This takes lots of elbow grease and some luck, but teak can come back from the (almost) dead. Trying to laminate over oil soaked wood will be a disaster. I have used the 2 part teak cleaners (acid, then base) on teak grates, and was very pleased with the results. None of it will be easy. ___Best of luck. _____Grant.

Aloha_float · 04-08-2014, 10:11

I had the same issue with staining. I used the same product from Home Depot (acid) that is used to clean cedar decks. I then rinsed and dehumidifier the boat. I used teak oil and then applied a semi-gloss urethane from Home Depot. I think it was named helmsman. It has been 5 years and the finish still looks great. I assumed you have teak....

Sent from my iPad using Cruisers Sailing Forum

s/v Breakaway · 04-08-2014, 11:25

[QUOTE=Aloha_float;1599201]I had the same issue with staining. I used the same product from Home Depot (acid) that is used to clean cedar decks. I then rinsed and dehumidifier the boat. I used teak oil and then applied a semi-gloss urethane from Home Depot. I think it was named helmsman. It has been 5 years and the finish still looks great. I assumed you have teak....

Interesting: I'm surprised that the Helmsman adhered over top of the teak oil. Good to know.