Interior refit 1970's kit sailboat questions

[coopec43]

Originally Posted by Spot

I am at a fork in the road and at the end of being able to work outdoors for the winter.


Fork A: start sewing cushion covers (indoor activity, need to pick fabric and source rest of foam)
Fork B: finish the the two galley cabinets (need to make patterns and buy plywood)
Forr C: wiring permanent 12VDC throughout boat (need time in boat, have all except new panel)
Fork D: bulkhead for rear lazarette and redo 'fishbones' (internal framing to support external swing keel) and re-seal keel to hull. (need warmer weather or indoor work space)

The boat had 6mm (1/2") plywood trim covering the deck to hull joint and hiding the wires. other than those, the number of varnished bits on this boat is less than 10 and the companionway accounts for 5 of them.

***I like what you did with the moulds, esp. for the trim. Is the head system your own design? ***

I should make my galley patterns before the boat is snowed in so I have a second over-winter project. The wiring will not be hard or take long but I don't have a panel yet (started a home brew one but no longer liking it).

Yes the trim around the toilet is my own design but I didn't have a choice- it had to be done that way. You could mak up interior tri9m for windows and hatches (very easy)

I put all my cabling in PVC cable duct (with snap on lids) I used plastic adhesive tape to keep the "pairs" together. You could use cable tags to identify what each cable is for. I got my upholstery material from an upholsterer at a cut price as I used material left over from previous jobs.


https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/1000x-Ye...-/122401292493


https://www.google.com/search?q=pvc+...w=1024&bih=626

[coopec43]

My Rattan arrived in the mail this morning and as it is a very hot day I thought I'd make up the cupboard doors in the workshop. I looked for my tenon saw but do you think I could find it? (I must have loaned it to someone)

Online at Bunnings Hardware they are only about $8 (a cheapie) but they are 100km away. I went to the local hardware and they had them but they were gold plated Spear and Jackson brand so consequently they were $35.

I wondered whether my mate at the rubbish dump/recycle place might have one and, yes, he did! A bit of light rust but it was only $2. Once I buffed up the saw I started on the Bridle joints and it works fine.

[Spot]

Originally Posted by coopec43

My Rattan arrived in the mail this morning and as it is a very hot day I thought I'd make up the cupboard doors in the workshop. I looked for my tenon saw but do you think I could find it? (I must have loaned it to someone)

Online at Bunnings Hardware they are only about $8 (a cheapie) but they are 100km away. I went to the local hardware and they had them but they were gold plated Spear and Jackson brand so consequently they were $35.

I wondered whether my mate at the rubbish dump/recycle place might have one and, yes, he did! A bit of light rust but it was only $2. Once I buffed up the saw I started on the Bridle joints and it works fine.

To be honest, I have not thought so much about the actual construction or joins or doors for the cabinets. Previous were plywood covered in carpeting with strips of plain wood finishing the edges. I was thinking 3/4" (19mm) ply for the carcasses and face frames so I could use my Kreg jig and screws to assemble without having to fight too thin of material. A wooden face frame and door frame with rattan or another sort or screen or panel would be nice, paint the rest of the box and call it a wrap. Bridle joins might be too classy for me, I admire the patience it takes to cut and fit those. PS Old working tools are awesome!

[GILow]

Originally Posted by Spot

To be honest, I have not thought so much about the actual construction or joins or doors for the cabinets. Previous were plywood covered in carpeting with strips of plain wood finishing the edges. I was thinking 3/4" (19mm) ply for the carcasses and face frames so I could use my Kreg jig and screws to assemble without having to fight too thin of material. A wooden face frame and door frame with rattan or another sort or screen or panel would be nice, paint the rest of the box and call it a wrap. Bridle joins might be too classy for me, I admire the patience it takes to cut and fit those. PS Old working tools are awesome!

19 mm is very heavy. Nicer to work with as you’ve noted, but the weight adds up.

[coopec43]

Originally Posted by Spot

To be honest, I have not thought so much about the actual construction or joins or doors for the cabinets. Previous were plywood covered in carpeting with strips of plain wood finishing the edges. I was thinking 3/4" (19mm) ply for the carcasses and face frames so I could use my Kreg jig and screws to assemble without having to fight too thin of material. A wooden face frame and door frame with rattan or another sort or screen or panel would be nice, paint the rest of the box and call it a wrap. Bridle joins might be too classy for me, I admire the patience it takes to cut and fit those. PS Old working tools are awesome!

I may misunderstand what you are saying but 19mm would be far too heavy for cupboard doors. I think 6mm would be fine if it had a frame of timber (15 mm X 30mm?)on the back. Whatever I've read in regard to lockers and cupboards is that there must be ventilation otherwise :things" can go moldy.

My next yacht is going to be built like a Naval Destroyer - first grade materials with priority given to functionality. I'd probably have a lot of shelving with netting in place to pull over the shelf items in rough weather (light weight and functional)

Bridle joins are quite simple and quick. But my old wood-work teacher would go berserk if he saw them. (If the joint is a bit loose I just fill it with epoxy)(If people start examining things like the bridle joints they'll be ordered off the yacht!)

[Spot]

Originally Posted by GILow

19 mm is very heavy. Nicer to work with as you’ve noted, but the weight adds up.

Yes, for sure. I am only looking at two small ones about a half meter on each side. One is holding the sink and the other is for the stove. Both are going on top of the side berths on the bow end. I have a sheet of 1/2" (12mm) left over.. If I glued and brad-nailed the boxes and saved the jig for the face frames that might work too.



https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums...ml#post3246846

[Spot]

Originally Posted by coopec43

I may misunderstand what you are saying but 19mm would be far too heavy for cupboard doors. I think 6mm would be fine if it had a frame of timber (15 mm X 30mm?)on the back. Whatever I've read in regard to lockers and cupboards is that there must be ventilation otherwise :things" can go moldy.

My next yacht is going to be built like a Naval Destroyer - first grade materials with priority given to functionality. I'd probably have a lot of shelving with netting in place to pull over the shelf items in rough weather (light weight and functional)

Bridle joins are quite simple and quick. But my old wood-work teacher would go berserk if he saw them. (If the joint is a bit loose I just fill it with epoxy)(If people start examining things like the bridle joints they'll be ordered off the yacht!)

12 or 19mm would be for the boxes, 19mm for the solid wood frames. I do like the notion of lightweight and/or breathable doors.


LOL on the teachers and inspectors. I am sure mine will look fine at 1-2 boat lengths...

[GILow]

Originally Posted by Spot

Yes, for sure. I am only looking at two small ones about a half meter on each side. One is holding the sink and the other is for the stove. Both are going on top of the side berths on the bow end. I have a sheet of 1/2" (12mm) left over.. If I glued and brad-nailed the boxes and saved the jig for the face frames that might work too.



https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums...ml#post3246846

Oh, right, that makes sense, and yes, that sounds like the right stuff for the job.

Sorry, I've become neurotic about weight. My boat is now (at least) three tons lighter than when I started my refit and I resent every gram I bring aboard.

[Spot]

No worries!
Happy Holidays!

Since idle hands are the...I decided to continue on with the gimbal thread-
https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums...ry-244111.html

and add a set of test gimbals to my mock-up box and Origo 1500.
The stove is not quite balanced, it's a little heavy towards the front. I added a couple 1/2 drive impact sockets to the back of the stove as counterweights. I must also say that the kettle is not one I would have on the boat, it was handy in the kitchen for a picture, whimsical geese are just not my 'thing'. Levels on the other hand...

Prepare to come about!

[wingless]

Cool info. Looks like a good and workable gimbal setup.

Planning to cook while underway?

If not, why not just keep it simple w/ a fixed mount, to permit cooking while at anchor?

[Spot]

Originally Posted by wingless

Cool info. Looks like a good and workable gimbal setup.

Planning to cook while underway?

If not, why not just keep it simple w/ a fixed mount, to permit cooking while at anchor?

Thanks WL. You would have to imagine them being made of metal and a little less clumsy looking. I may try messing with the pivot point to get the unit balanced and a little lower in the cabinet. Most days I would not need them... but it would be an exciting day if I was underway and could really put them to use.

[GILow]

For the record, I’ve found the gimballed stove useful, even at anchor and in the pen. There are some days where the winds and/or currents conspire to make the boat lean one way or toss around. On those days I release the gimbal brake on my stove and let it swing.

Well worth the effort I reckon.

[Spot]

Thanks for the thoughts on the gimbal. I have worked with the mock-up, moving the pivot point to correct level and trying to get the works to fit below the cover/heat shield when stowed. Net result was dropping the height 2" (50mm) to get the stove fiddles to sit under the cover.

We had 4" (10cm) snow last night. I thought I'd enjoy a day 'snowed in' and work on the side berth cushions. Other than being about 1 yard short on fabric to make the zipper plates for the both of them...so I may get to go drive the Jeep in the snow regardless. I think we need some groceries too, yes? I was also surprised how much the new foam yellowed from the small amount of light in a room on the north (non-sunny) side of the house with the shades drawn.

So the plan is to make both side the same and not beveled to allow for flipping the 'up' side to 'down' as they wear. The difference between the two side is pretty minimal, only 1/2" (13mm) over a short run of the 'gunnel' edge and I think I will trim both of the berths front edge to give the cushion a slight reveal, unless it is better practice to have some sort of lip or fiddle holding the cushion into/onto the berth. One nice thing about 'plan c' is that it might make a nice bright work accent in an otherwise painted/covered interior.

A neighbor just came by with a pickup truck with a front-mounted plow and treated me to a day free of copious snow blowing. What to work on next?

[wingless]

Nice update.

Not recalling to stove manual specs, what does it say about permitted material at the gimbal locations? Does it need to be metal for flammability?

The area behind the stove is good storage, so minimizing the cutout dimension would maximize utility, less stuff falling to below.

Good thoughts on the cushion options. I would lean towards the fiddle, make the cushion slightly oversize and count on the hull to fiddle compression for retention. My concern w/ the overhang is that the foam edge would sustain degradation while attempting to resist folding over the edge.

Nice hot knife. I find that invaluable on fabric projects.

[wingless]

What if the stove cover was a removable panel, instead of a hinged panel?

If removable, then it could have an intentional pocket, such as behind the stove, assuming it could fit w/ the overhead clearance.

The pocket cover would have zero risk of unintentional latch failure, slamming down at inopportune times.

The factory built my boat w/ a sink cover panel and I made a storage pocket that has been very handy.