I'm just getting ready to install slotted aluminum toerail on my Cascade. I will be using 5200 and then screwing and thru bolting every so often. Does anyone have a recommendation as to what interval one should put a screw or bolt through the toerail at the top of the hull?
The toerail is heavy aluminum that goes down the side 2 1/2 inches then curves over on the deck 1 1/2 inches. The slotted part continues vertically from the side portion above the deck.
I'll be calling Cascade too but thought I'd run it by the experts just to get your opinion. All opinions are requested.
Yes, you are absolutely right. No holes, no anodizing. I think you are right about 4" intervals. The extrusions came from Cascade about '90. Shipped to Hawaii where there is nowhere to anodize. Makes my project a bit difficult but not impossible. There is also mention of screws coming down into the deck on the lip that rolls over the deck edge. Would that be the same interval? Every 4"s?
Just looking for all kinds of opinions here.
It appears that Cascade and Yacht Constructors are going out of business or changing hands? No more chandlery, or engineservice. I don't even know if they'll be able to answer my question. They used to be very helpful with all construction questions when Hans was around.
Screws, when used, were intended only as a temporary hull to deck fastening during assembly.
Typically, the hull is flanged inboard for an inch or two, capped with a strip of compressible butyl compound, fitted with a d-shaped vinyl rub rail, more butyl tape, the deck fitted in place, and fastened with screws, another butyl tape applied followed by an extruded aluminum toerail track, and the whole sandwich fastened with 1/4" - 5/16" s.s. bolts on close (usuually 4") centers. Once the bolts are taken up the butyl compound fills every crevice. If there is a deck leak at any point, simply tighten the readily accessible toe rail track bolts in the immediate area.
Gord May "If you didn't have the time or money to do it right in the first place, when will you get the time/$ to fix it?"
Hope this attachment makes it.
This is my toerail deckjoint system. My Carlins are a bit beefier but it is nearly the same.
My question is: At what interval do you think I should place the fasteners at the side and the top of the toerail?
Yes, I have a glass hull but the decks are built like a glass over ply woodboat.
Aloha again Delmarrey,
The toerail is aluminum. The original hull deck joint was just glass over and then a mahogany toerail. I didn't like that system because of the abrasion at the edges which sometimes would wear through the glass and let water in to delaminate the deck ply. I think the new system will be better. I'm just trying to put together mentally all that I need to do, drill the holes and get a bolts and screws order done.
It' looks as though the side screws are under a rubrail rubber, Y/N?
As for the spacing for the side I'd still stick with the 4" providing they go all the way thru. On the top I guess one would have to make that judgement for them self depending on the thickness of the material. Rubrails go any where from 2-6" depending on the manufacture.
Also, since your getting water in there, I'd lay a good bead of sealer under that corner of the toerail and let it ooz out when you tighten it down.
Yes, it is the actual system. There is a rubber strip that covers the screw or bolt heads.
I got hold of the old Cascade folks who are the new Chinook Composites, Corp.. They still answer questions. Their answer was thru bolt on eight inch centers staggering top and bottom bolts, meaning there would be a bolt every 4 inches (one from the top and 4" to the one from the side). I'll not be able to do that in all places because I have deck beam ends on the shelf which will definitely get in the way in a lot of areas where the bolt holes will fall.
The system is really strong. The newer Cascades use the toerail as chainplates and don't have "real" chainplates like I do.
I planned to slather the whole thing with 5200 and let it ooze out so I get some really good sealing and adhesion.
Thanks very much for your help. I learn stuff every day on this forum thanks to folks like you, Gord and Alan.
I like your recommendation for fisheries supply. They are great!!
Just a thought: if you have or are planning to have a HF radio aboard...ham or marine...these toerails would make an ideal RF ground system. You might want to provide for connections to an antenna coupler.
Yep, sure could. Best would probably be the shortest possible connection from your tuner ground lug to the toerail, using 3 or 4" wide copper strip. The heavier the better because of strength and longevity, not electrical properties. Just fold the end over a couple of times, punch a hole for the bolt, use a big washer, and tighten snugly.
It might be helpful also to do this in a place which is accessible so you can inspect the connection every now and then.
Would probably be useful also to connect both toerails if feasible, not necessarily as one continuous electrical length....two separate ones would be as good or better. Maybe you could run a copper strip from the tuner ground lug and under deck across the boat to the nearest place on the opposite toerail?
I would through-bolt top AND sides every four inches (Staggered so that the top bolts were two inches away from the side bolts). I'd be tempeted to run backing strips the length of carling on the inboard and the under sides.