Imron vs Awlgrip vs Awlcraft

[SV Siren]

I am in the process of getting bids from local pro-shooters and they have brought up a couple paints. I am somewhat familiar with the characteristics of Awlgrip, and Awlcraft to a point, but Imron is a bit of a mystery to me.

I am looking to go with a dark blue, or black color on my hull, and I would like to have it easily repairable, but I would also like to maximize the longevity of the periods between sprays. I am hoping to have that "mirror" finish, and keep it that way for a long time. My locations is the Great Lakes if that makes a difference in your replies. I am pretty steadfast in going with either color choice.

That said, what would you recommend and why?

[SailsWithFists]

Originally Posted by SV Siren

I am in the process of getting bids from local pro-shooters and they have brought up a couple paints. I am somewhat familiar with the characteristics of Awlgrip, and Awlcraft to a point, but Imron is a bit of a mystery to me.

I am looking to go with a dark blue, or black color on my hull, and I would like to have it easily repairable, but I would also like to maximize the longevity of the periods between sprays. I am hoping to have that "mirror" finish, and keep it that way for a long time. My locations is the Great Lakes if that makes a difference in your replies. I am pretty steadfast in going with either color choice.

That said, what would you recommend and why?

I was shooting Imron over 30-years ago, back in my automotive days. If you can get the original 2-part stuff, it will easily last over 30 years. A boat I painted with Imron back in 2003 still looks new.

[SVTatia]

As per title - Awlgrip should be off as it is not repairable and cannot be buffed.

I am also looking at these paints but for DIY - I was leaning towards Imron but I could not get anyone who carries for retail (DIY).
I also looked at Alexseal, developed by the chemist(??) who developed Awlgrip after his non-compete expired. It looks really good on paper but has mixed application reviews. No conclusion yet and still doing my research, paint project is not urgent.

[NSboatman]

If you’re looking at diy, try amershield. Lovely stuff, easy to use and lays down beautifully.

[Orion Jim]

I've had my pro spray my replacement pedestal and my boot top with AwlCraft. Super durable and looks great. Personally I'd have my hull gelcoated if it was time for me to make that decision.

[SV Siren]

I am not in a hurry either, To sort out the whole paint situation. I will be talking with my painter in about two weeks, but I am leaning towards either Awlcraft or Imran at this point. Both can be repaired much easier than Awlgrip.

[S/V Alchemy]

Ameron, Imron and Endura are all good, durable two-part choices. I have a steel sail boat and Endura is what I've used for the topsides. Awlgrip seems to be the default choice, and, well applied, produces a beautiful finish, but I opt for durable over beauty. I've never wanted the shiniest boat in the basin, because I don't intend to linger in the basin!

PPG Protective & Marine Coatings
http://www.endura.ca/marine/marine_above.pdf

[foufou]

I have used acrylic urethane from Napa Auto parts with good results and longevity. 26 years still shiny

[Dolphin460]

Imron....I sprayed my Cal 27 that I raced for over 15 years with Imron. On the day I sold my boat it looked as good as the day I painted it. During one race season I got hit above the waterline. A large hole in my stern. Once repaired you could not find any difference in the old paint to the new pain at the repair. I now have a Cat that is gel coated and when I decide to paint her it will be with Imron. Imron shines and keeps on shinning for a very very long time, and the darks colors will not fade.

[Mango51]

I painted a car back in 91 with imron. The only thing I remember was becareful because it's highly toxic. More then others. That only matters if your painting it. Quality looked great but I'm no expert. Good luck

[steamgoat]

Awlgrip is linear polyurethane (polyester) and won’t buff.
Awlcraft 2000, Imron, PPG Concept auto paint, are acrylic urethane and can be sanded and buffed.

[tml]

No experience with Imron but have with Awlgrip in contrast to Awlcraft. Very different products. When our boat was painted with Awlgrip ( linear polyurethane ) it was a very shiny hard surface. Other than wash it not much maintenance but not repairable. If you got a gouge and if you wanted it to be not detectable you were going to paint that side in total. Spot painting would never be undetectable. Ours was a white standard Awlgrip color with no tint so it doesn't get easier to match than that.
Six years ago we had the boat repainted and though Awlgrip was specified we got Awlcraft. I noticed immediately that the shine was not as I remembered from a new Awlgrip job. Otherwise a spectacular job.
Didn't find out until we were away and needed the paint data for a repair and the original painter fessed up it was Awlcraft. Since then several seasons amongst fixed docks in the Bahamas and other captain induced mishaps we have had it spot painted and repaired several times. In most cases it was buffed out without paint and undetectable from new. In cases where the ding went through the paint and required fill etc the hull was spot painted and polished. Again absolutely not detectable.
My lesson learned is that Awlgrip will have more shine day one and is a harder finish.Engine exhaust washes off easily. Awlcraft seems to be more pourous and its a more effort to wash off the exhaust stain. Awlcraft looks very good and can be repaired with modest expense and effort. I do recommend using the Awl polish once a year and the finish looks as new again.
If pressed I would again go with Awlcraft until I sort out how to put some sort of a force field around the hull!

[Minggat]

Minggat was painted with Awlgrip over 12 years ago. Badly in need of new paint now. I’m guessing from what I have learned that I might have gotten more years out of it.

Observations

The hull, while it WAS (past tense) still glossy, developed crazing within the first few years.

I had the hull waxed before settling off across the Pacific from Mexico. By the time I arrived in Hawaii, the gloss was gone and thousands of blisters appeared. Awlgrip never responded to my email asking for input.

I had a hardtop built for my dodger. The painter liked Imrom better, and it was much cheaper. The gloss has not diminished at all (but it’s only been 2 years).

[Souzag818]

Sprayed my last two boats with Alexseal. One was dark green, still looked good after 17 years, then I sold it. And it can be repaired and buffed.

[stnick]

My vote is Imron its for spray by Professional use only . I had my Sabre painted with it and It still good after 8 years
You cant get a better look than IMRON you can come close awlgrip with a coat of clear is close to perfect.