There are as many ways to set up the outhaul internal to the boom as there are companies that make cars. Meaning a LOT. Here are schemctics for a few of them Harken Sailboat Hardware and Accessories
And most outhauls are built using a multi-part purchase/tackle, along with a cascade block or two. There's no one way that it must be done, even if "fixing" an old, failed, system.
The bit which pulled out on your current
system may have simply been connected by drilling through an aluminum plate, & allowing the flange on the pin to anchor
the end in place. Which, once the pin was slipped through the hole, the shackle was attached to it to mechanically lock everything together.
However, over time, & with dissimilar metal corrosion
, such configurations do fail, including when pulled on by a well meaning owner. As the stainless fastener sipped through a hole in the aluminum plate causes the aluminum to corrode. So that when pulled on, later in it's life (like now), it gets fully pulled through the aluminum plate.
Then again, you may have just had an old block on your outhaul system, inside of the boom, fail. It happens, often for reasons such as the above. Dissimilar metal corrosion
My standard comment about breaking things onboard is that if it was easy to break. Meaning that nothing foolish was being done to a piece of hardware at the time, & no excessive levels of force were being used. Then it was time to fix it anyway, as not very long from now it would have broken on iti's own, due to standard wear & tear. Which on a boat
tends to be pretty high, thanks to the salt
, & endless cyclical loadings. Make sense?
A tip for rigging
a new one is to use the smallest diameter line that you can get away with in the system. So that the line rolls more freely over any blocks in the it. And that on everything but the part which gets pulled on by hand to adjust things, it's best to use small diameter Spectra. As it's strong, & super slippery. Which makes the system operate that much more freely. And you can always add cover to Spectra anywhere that you need to grip it, use a winch
on it, or lock it into a cam cleat. That, or strip the cover off of a Spectra cored line, like Warpspeed, where it runs over blocks & through other hardware.
Just be sure to taper the cover into the Spectra core
, & lock stitch it into place, at the point where the transition occurs, so that it's doubly locked in place. And there are lots of tutorials on how to do this online, including videos. Ditto for ones on how to splice Spectra.
Note, that if you need to, there are ways of having the line exit the boom on any of it's sides or bottom. As denoted in some of the Harken
diagrams. And you can even do this in order to add an external anchor
point for the line if configuring an internal one is proving difficult.
Although sometimes an easy way to add an anchor point inside of the boom is to drill all of the way through both sides of the boom, & add a small diameter bolt through said holes. With or without a compression
sleeve, & the same with regards to reinforcing "washers" for the head
of the bolt & the nut. "Washers" being in quotes, as if you use stainless ones, you also need to use nylon ones underneath of them, to electrically isolate the stainless from the aluminum.