How to keep rain from deck holes while rebedding?

[Tessellate]

It's the rainy season where I live (for the next 8 months) and I'm overdue to fix some leaking deck fittings and rebed the rest just for peace of mind.

I'm epoxy potting most fasteners, so that means I need to leave the hole open overnight for the epoxy to cure.

Sometimes I need to leave it more than 2 days because I don't have 2 adjacent days I can do work. So there's a high chance of rain at some point.

I know people cover open port holes with seran wrap, ziplocks and such, but with deck holes, the water will easily run down the deck and under the plastic, probably even if the edges are duct taped down.

How do you cover deck holes?

I could make a ring of putty / clay around the hole to divert water, and then lay plastic over that.

But what's a good cheap putty that will stick to fiberglass?

My butyl tape world work great but it's not cheap and I don't want to waste it.



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[minaret]

I do this here @ Shilshole a lot. Butyl is the only answer. There are cheaper types. Buy from Fiberlay. Get the yellow hi-temp, it cleans up easier and is cheaper.

[oldragbaggers]

You don't need to leave the holes uncovered for epoxy to cure. Epoxy is not an air dry, it is a chemical reaction cure. You can cover with plastic and tape it down. I've been doing it for many years. As a matter of fact I use a heavy mil plastic when I fair a surface with epoxy or fill holes to get a smooth surface. Laying the plastic on top and then smoothing prevents that "drag" you get when you just use a plastic spatula because it doesn't pull the thickened epoxy back out of the hole.

[Tessellate]

Originally Posted by minaret

I do this here @ Shilshole a lot. Butyl is the only answer. There are cheaper types. Buy from Fiberlay. Get the yellow hi-temp, it cleans up easier and is cheaper.

minaret, where do you get cheap butyl from Fiberlay? fiberlay.com is their website right? When I search butyl there, it says no results. I'm using MaineSail's butyl (Bed-It) currently.

It would seem like I could use modeling clay, but wonder if anyone has experience with that.

[Tessellate]

Originally Posted by oldragbaggers

You don't need to leave the holes uncovered for epoxy to cure. Epoxy is not an air dry, it is a chemical reaction cure. You can cover with plastic and tape it down. I've been doing it for many years. As a matter of fact I use a heavy mil plastic when I fair a surface with epoxy or fill holes to get a smooth surface. Laying the plastic on top and then smoothing prevents that "drag" you get when you just use a plastic spatula because it doesn't pull the thickened epoxy back out of the hole.

I'm not leaving them uncovered, my question is actually about how to cover them. I see what you were thinking though, that I'm just covering small fastener holes. Taping plastic over 1/4" holes would be fine I think, but I'm doing much larger holes like deck fills (diesel, water, waste) and a 7" hole where the diesel heater exhaust pipe is.

I can tape plastic over those but since it's a large surface and not always perfectly smooth I was thinking there has to be a better way. As we all know from tracing interior leaks, water is sneaky and if there's a single gap in your seal it will find its way in.

[The Way]

Originally Posted by oldragbaggers

You don't need to leave the holes uncovered for epoxy to cure. Epoxy is not an air dry, it is a chemical reaction cure. You can cover with plastic and tape it down. I've been doing it for many years. As a matter of fact I use a heavy mil plastic when I fair a surface with epoxy or fill holes to get a smooth surface. Laying the plastic on top and then smoothing prevents that "drag" you get when you just use a plastic spatula because it doesn't pull the thickened epoxy back out of the hole.

Great idea -- why didn't I think of that?

Thanks!
Jack

[DefinitelyMe]

For large holes like those you describe i just get a piece of ply, or plastic, or a cutting board (or more recently an old laptop computer that doesn't work any more), cover the hole with it and prop it up at one end so it's not touching the repair i've just done, then duct-tape the high side to the deck in such a way that any water that runs down the deck hits the tape and is deflected off to the sides. As long as you don't leave it more than a few days the duct tape comes off fine and it's surprising how effective it is. Also free and allows some ventilation of the hole.

[hellosailor]

Butyl putty is great but pricey. If you ant a cheaper alternative, plumber's putty or window glazing putty (linseed oil based) will both do the trick. As would the beeswax rings used for toilet bowl seating.


But as said, the epoxy does not need air to cure. Just beware that whatever is in contact with it when it cures, may also be bonded to it forever. It can be real interesting if you covered epoxy with duct tape, and then try to peel the tape off when the epoxy has set. (Much less interesting if you place a sheet of wax paper between the two.(G)

[minaret]

Originally Posted by Tessellate

minaret, where do you get cheap butyl from Fiberlay? fiberlay.com is their website right? When I search butyl there, it says no results. I'm using MaineSail's butyl (Bed-It) currently.

It would seem like I could use modeling clay, but wonder if anyone has experience with that.

Normally I'd say just go down there and grab some off the shelf, but they just moved to Kent.

Maybe give them a call? The website has such an endless amount of industrial supply on it, it's difficult for it to be great...


If you're @ Shilshole, PM me and I'll give you a roll. It's much cheaper when you buy by the case.

[SVTatia]

[QUOTE=Tessellate;1933315]...How do you cover deck holes?
...
/QUOTE]

I have been using aluminium foil tape for years - it sticks well, its water proof, sun proof, and does not leave anything behind after you remove.
I cover holes that I open to fix later or to cover epoxied holes due to impending rain...
You can also use them for larger holes, just overlap by 1/4 inch.

Nashua Tape 1.89 in. x 50 yd. 322 Multi-Purpose HVAC Foil Tape-1207792 - The Home Depot

[oldragbaggers]

Originally Posted by The Way

Great idea -- why didn't I think of that?

Thanks!
Jack

The only thing I failed to mention, Jack, don't try to pull the plastic off until the epoxy has cured at least semi hard or it will pull it out and make a big mess. Otherwise it works beautifully.

[oldragbaggers]

Originally Posted by hellosailor

Butyl putty is great but pricey. If you ant a cheaper alternative, plumber's putty or window glazing putty (linseed oil based) will both do the trick. As would the beeswax rings used for toilet bowl seating.


But as said, the epoxy does not need air to cure. Just beware that whatever is in contact with it when it cures, may also be bonded to it forever. It can be real interesting if you covered epoxy with duct tape, and then try to peel the tape off when the epoxy has set. (Much less interesting if you place a sheet of wax paper between the two.(G)

Plastic, such as the heavy mil kind you get at Home Depot for drop cloth, or even the sandwich bag type, does not stick to epoxy and will pull off very nicely when the epoxy has cured.

[Greenhand]

Weather proof foil DUCT tape. I spent much of the summer taping up holes every evening and untaping them every morning and this worked a charm.

I say DUCT because this is the stuff to actually go on ducts, as opposed to the DUCK tape brand that everyone insists is really duct tape.

Oops, I see it is the same stuff SV Tatia recommended.

[MBWhite]

If the boat is on land, do not overlook making a tent out of a tarp or clear plastic sheeting as it will help keep the whole deck dry as well. It is much nicer to work on when you are on your hands and knees.

[Tessellate]

Thanks everyone. Sounds like I need to get some foil tape and heavy mil plastic sheeting.

The mysteries of Home Depot are pretty new to me, and I'm still discovering all the useful things they have.

I don't want to tent the boat though because I'm still going sailing regularly. In some cases I'd have to wrap the whole boat for it to really be effective. (ex, the aft sidedeck can get runoff from the bow, and sideways blowing rain)