How to free SS bolt from corroded aluminum fitting

[Chrisatlantic]

Maybe I’m missing something? What’s the point of removing this bolt? Looks like all it’s doing is holding in the SS pin. Am assuming you’re not trying to remove the pin...

Yes I did see the photo.

[coopec43]

Originally Posted by Chrisatlantic

Maybe I’m missing something? What’s the point of removing this bolt? Looks like all it’s doing is holding in the SS pin. Am assuming you’re not trying to remove the pin...

Yes I did see the photo.

How would I fit the mast?

Here is a photo of the mast base

[Laxlife]

A high quality soldering iron can apply heat metal to metal with precision. Then chill it precisely with ice water or even dry ice placed in a funnel whose spout is less than the diameter of the fitting

[hirondeller]

I offer my sympathies. I had a steel park plug stick in an aluminum outboard head, I cracked off the ceramic and tried an 'easy out' to turn out the plug threads, the hardened steel 'easy out' snapped off when I escalated the torque using several 'ever larger' impact tools.



Since you can put the whole part on a drill press would the following be easier?: (1) Snap off the bolt-head with a long wrench or auto impact gun (2) Use a carbide tipped hole saw just slightly larger than the diameter of the stuck bolt, drill through the aluminum remove the stuck shank (3) Re-thread the new hole and install a new bolt with anti-seize or Tef-gel. I doubt you can save the threads at this point no matter what method you use.



With the the procedure suggested above you are cutting aluminum, not stainless steel (much easier and faster, you can also use a hand drill).

[Chrisatlantic]

Originally Posted by coopec43

How would I fit the mast?

Here is a photo of the mast base

So you need to remove those pins as well. If you’re able to remove that bolt, do you think the pin is going to come right out?

In this case I think your goal is to free the pin and what happens with the bolt isn’t important. You can always drill and tap another bolt on the other side of the step and flip the pin around.

Definitely helpful to see where are you need to end up.

[coopec43]

Originally Posted by Chrisatlantic

So you need to remove those pins as well. If you’re able to remove that bolt, do you think the pin is going to come right out?

In this case I think your goal is to free the pin and what happens with the bolt isn’t important. You can always drill and tap another bolt on the other side of the step and flip the pin around.

Definitely helpful to see where are you need to end up.

Please read comment # 83

[Chrisatlantic]

Now that we see the way the whole thing works i think that is the approach if you aren't able to readily extract the bolt(s).

PS big thumbs up for LanoCote and Tef-Gel, both are awesome at preventing this kind of problem.

[coopec43]

Originally Posted by hirondeller

I offer my sympathies. I had a steel park plug stick in an aluminum outboard head, I cracked off the ceramic and tried an 'easy out' to turn out the plug threads, the hardened steel 'easy out' snapped off when I escalated the torque using several 'ever larger' impact tools.

Since you can put the whole part on a drill press would the following be easier?: (1) Snap off the bolt-head with a long wrench or auto impact gun (2) Use a carbide tipped hole saw just slightly larger than the diameter of the stuck bolt, drill through the aluminum remove the stuck shank (3) Re-thread the new hole and install a new bolt with anti-seize or Tef-gel. I doubt you can save the threads at this point no matter what method you use.

With the the procedure suggested above you are cutting aluminum, not stainless steel (much easier and faster, you can also use a hand drill).

It had crossed my mind that I should use a hole saw and cut the aluminum thread and then re-tap the hole. The hole saws I priced were diamond tipped meant for ceramics. I didn't find any carbide tipped saws but I'll look again. I suppose ideally the saw should be thin walled.

If I can't extract it using liquids and/or force I'll follow your advice. Right now I'll do an eBay search for a suitable hole saw.

Thank you for your advice.

[coopec43]

This is quite informative.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xUEob2oAKVs

[coopec43]

I'm just wondering what would happen if I put the earth (ground) terminal of my electric welder onto the aluminum fitting and the welding electrode onto the bolt, (Asking for a friend)

[Chrisatlantic]

STAND BACK!!!!

[coopec43]

Originally Posted by coopec43

I'm just wondering what would happen if I put the earth (ground) terminal of my electric welder onto the aluminum fitting and the welding electrode onto the bolt, (Asking for a friend)

Maybe it is worth a try?

I was thinking aluminum oxide may have different electrical conductivity to aluminum or stainless steel and apparently that is the case.


People also ask

Is aluminum oxide electrically conductive?

Al2O3 is an electrical insulator but has a relatively high thermal conductivity (30 Wm−1K−1) for a ceramic material. Aluminium oxide is insoluble in water. ... Aluminium oxide is responsible for the resistance of metallic aluminium to weathering. (Wikipedia)


If I put a high current through the SS/aluminum oxide/aluminum would there be some arcing? And what would he effect be?

I'll give it a try later on today

[Courtsontour]

I have always followed the KISS principal and have used white vinegar in the past for exactly the same problem. it takes a while but just drizzle the vinegar around the bolt or use a brush. leave it a while and then just keep applying until it it completely saturated and stops soaking in. The vinegar dissolves the aluminum corrosion and will free up the bolt. Absolutely guaranteed.
For other things where corrosion is not an issue I have used 'Blaster' and found it the most efficient.
Cheers
& good luck

[Jim Cate]

The vinegar dissolves the aluminum corrosion and will free up the bolt. Absolutely guaranteed.

Where do I apply to get double my money back when it fails to work?

Jim

[coopec43]

Originally Posted by Courtsontour

I have always followed the KISS principal and have used white vinegar in the past for exactly the same problem. it takes a while but just drizzle the vinegar around the bolt or use a brush. leave it a while and then just keep applying until it it completely saturated and stops soaking in. The vinegar dissolves the aluminum corrosion and will free up the bolt. Absolutely guaranteed.
For other things where corrosion is not an issue I have used 'Blaster' and found it the most efficient.
Cheers
& good luck

As I mentioned in an earlier comment I have the fitting immersed in three liters of white vinegar. It has been there for a week now and I am prepared to keep trying - time is on my side. Thanks

I just hooked up my small welder for a short while and there is something definitely happening as the vinegar is bubbling near where the shaft enters (red arrow) the aluminum fitting. But that may be of no significance I suppose.....