I dunno about the "30L being overkill for 6-10 days".
Here in Oz, where the auto-fridge is king, 30L is considered way too small for anything more than a weekend adventure.
For week long or longer expeditions, especially off the beaten track where shops are few, far between, and bloody exxy if they appear at all, 60 or 80L is considered adequate.
The most common auto fridge used here is probably still the Engel, whose most commonly puchased size is the 40L versions - and add other 40L versions of other brands....
40L is "what the average person can afford" and what "takes up the least amount of usable real estate in the back of the vehicle".
OK, so auto mounted fridge-freezers usaully get to run off the vehicle
alternator for much of the day while travelling, but camoing at destinations can mean reliance on portable solding
solar panels for days, which is around 200W maximum.
The larger frdge/freezer models feature separate freezer compartments, and are usually aaprox a thrid of the capacity of the adjacent fridge compartment. The better versions of these all have separate compressors so they ca be adjusted accurately for each compartment separately, making it easier to keep the freezer at minus 18C while the fridge remains around 0-4C.
Obviously none of these 'box fridges' have thick enough
insulation to reduce the
current draw to what is acceptable aboard a
boat, generalising, but I know of plenty of smaller 30'
cabin boats and smaller for whom this option works just fine, utilising the occasional run of the
engine for an hour or so to recharge 'fridge depleted'
batteries.
So I concur with the poster above who suggested just keeping a smaller 'portable fridge freezer' aboard for those (likely far fewer) occasions when the additional freezing capacity is necessary.
Also, the OPs idea to put an insulated divider between the two 'compartments' within a
single compartment is also something that has been done many times before in auto fridges.
The difficulty is regulating the flow of air to the frige compartment without inadvertently lowering the temp of the freezer copartment, or having all liquids in the fridge freeze solid.
Geralising again, the way this is often done is to use holes drilled in the divider that are closed with roatating bezel vents.
It has also proven useful to use a small 12V compurter fan to blow the air form the freezer to the fridge, and to pu this on a timer once you have extabished the correct or adequate 'pattern' of
cooling required.
So the with the fridge
sensor set to minus 15 to keep the freezer frozen, the small fan might need to run for 5mins every hour to keep the fridge compartment approx at 0-4deg.
And that will of course vary with ambient. So haveing a second thermocouple to
record the fridge compartment temp is vital.
[Note that arbitrary time measurement I totally invented - YMMV]