How much fiberglass over plywood?

[Celestialsailor]

Originally Posted by San Juan Sailor

I'm replacing the plywood decks, cabin top and sides on the boat I'm restoring. How many layers and what weight of glass cloth should I use? I was planning to use System Three on it but read about US Composites epoxy on the Boat Design forum and it's about half the cost. Anyone have any experience with it?
Dan

Hi San Juan...Here is a thread that I participated in a while back. In post #27, I detailed how I re-cored my decks. I used the old deck itself with West systems. Although the Epoxy of your choice could be used. It came out great and felt like I was walking on concrete when I was done...Good luck...

http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/...k-11074-2.html

[Christian Van H]

Originally Posted by cat man do

System 3 was a flexible resin compared to some as well.
I didnt like it as I saw creep on some high load areas on some boats that didnt get seem to get the same problem when built with other resins.

Anecdotal evidence only, but I have never seen a so called stiff epoxy creep or fail.

Dave

Hey Cat! You are MUCH more versed in this than I. I've never seen the word creep applied to fiberglass work. What's the definition?

[cat man do]

Originally Posted by akio.kanemoto

Thanks for that - I don't suppose you have any handy hints on fairing concave areas inside (like against the hull between shelves - kinda lumpy at the moment..) where you can't get a sander or a torture board in?

Cheers..

36 grit paper, or pull very neat coves to start with

What about light sand and pull a bog cove over the top as it will be easier to sand

Dave

[cat man do]

Originally Posted by Christian Van H

Hey Cat! You are MUCH more versed in this than I. I've never seen the word creep applied to fiberglass work. What's the definition?

Glass shifting/pulling on substrate/core.

This was around the chain plate area of a boat done from a "softer" epoxy.

It was in warmer climate and you could see print through of plank, glass weave and noticeable hint of pulled fibres and wrinkling through the paint.

It also had a similar sort of effect happening in the bows over a larger area.

Never saw it with the same designs done with "firmer" epoxy

Dave

[SkiprJohn]

Aloha Akio,
To fair some of the fillets after they've cured is pretty difficult but I use a flexible extension in my drill motor with a little (1" or 3/4") sanding drum if it is really necessary. I also use dowels with sand paper glued to them and sometimes pieces of flexible hose so that they can bend around corners. Just a Phillips head screw driver with sand paper glued to the handle and rotated with your drill motor will allow you to get into some of those strange and tight places.
Hope this helps.
JohnL

[SkiprJohn]

Akio,
You don't need to glass over furniture in the interior. A good quality paint or laminate where the wear will occur is really good. Laminate on countertops is good. Bunks and seats just need some good quality paint.
Kind regards,
JohnL

[akio.kanemoto]

Actually, I will be going to the boat tomorrow and will take some pics of the "joyful areas" and post - most areas are OK'ish, but this one particular area is a catastrophe - I've now slapped on about 3-4 layers of WS Microlite to try to even it out and it's getting better, but there are still holes and lumps.. I'm thinking as a last resort that maybe I should make a really sloppy mixture and maybe it will self-level to a degree (vertically?) - but then it will be impossible to sand... :\

On the furniture - should I do a coat of straight epoxy resin over everything or everdure or somesuch for some hardness or just straight to epoxy primer? There's some Microlite everywhere by the way - which is quite soft.