How do I strip some, not all, of my deck paint?

[KelseyB]

So I have been repainting the decks of my (steel) boat, and step one (after sanding) was 2 coats of 2-part epoxy (Amercoat 235 from PPG, to be exact) as a primer/barrier. Then, I put Interlux bright side polyurethane on top, on the edges, with the intention of sectioning off the middle for non-skid. However, when I put down my first piece of tape to define the shape for the non-skid, the interlux came off with the tape.

I'm not looking for diagnoses of why it didn't stick, or lectures about the importance of prep - I am looking for how to get it off. How do I get the Interlux all the way off in the places it didn't totally stick, without cutting into the layers of epoxy primer below? Is there a type of paint stripper that cuts polyurethanes, but not epoxies? If there isn't, and I have to sand (which I would really hope not to do, as I've already sanded this entire boat multiple times and am sick of it), is this a hand-sanding job and not a power-sanding job?

This is what it looks like right now. The white is the still-exposed epoxy paint where I intend to put non-skid, the tan is the polyurethane that needs to come off in some places.

[Cheechako]

Boy that is a tough one. I hate the Brightsides. Tried to use it a couple of times and just dont like it. I wonder if there is a stripper that will take the poly off without effecting the epoxy based?

[Sparx]

Try scraping. Or light sanding maybe starting with 150 grit. You might get lucky.

I too will never use Brightside again. I found it did not last to my satisfaction.

[Spot]

My thoughts go first to pressure washing with a lower pressure tip. If you are slipped or anchored this is probably not as easy to do with controlling over spray and flying flakes.

[KelseyB]

Originally Posted by Spot

My thoughts go first to pressure washing with a lower pressure tip. If you are slipped or anchored this is probably not as easy to do with controlling over spray and flying flakes.

Unfortunately I don't have a power washer handy - do you think a good pressurized hose end might be enough, or useless?

[LeaseOnLife]

Interlux brightside is a one part poly, correct? That should be sensitive to common paint strippers, while the underlying 2 part epoxy is not. I would start with trying a section with one of the lesser aggressive 'orange' strippers before going to stronger stuff.

[Spot]

Originally Posted by KelseyB

Unfortunately I don't have a power washer handy - do you think a good pressurized hose end might be enough, or useless?

My first guess would be probably not, but there would be little harm in trying. If the polyurethane is coated but not sticking it might not take much.

It's not a fun problem, hopefully you find some way that is not too expensive or physically draining.

[KelseyB]

Originally Posted by LeaseOnLife

Interlux brightside is a one part poly, correct? That should be sensitive to common paint strippers, while the underlying 2 part epoxy is not. I would start with trying a section with one of the lesser aggressive 'orange' strippers before going to stronger stuff.

Perhaps CitriStrip?

[psk125]

We gave Brightsides a trial on a section of our deck. It held up less than a week underfoot. Your learning even sooner that it doesn't work well on deck is actually a blessing - imagine if you had done your entire deck and found out two weeks later that it wasn't bonding well, after you had already painted the rest. We did our deck with 2-part Interlux paint about 15 years ago. It held up well for about 12 years, then started to look pretty shabby. We then tried Interdeck, to see if that would work. It was a bit better than Brightsides but still not good for much more than a season. We bit the bullet again at the start of this season and went to Awlgrip, adding Griptex for the nonskid. Since the prep work for one-part is essentially the same as for two-part, paying more for the two-part is well worthwhile. Instead of having to re-do the prep and pay for new paint perhaps every five years, we expect the our new Awlgrip to last perhaps another fifteen years.
One thing we learned - use short nap felt rollers instead of foam. The foam rollers disintegrate in the paint solvents after about two batches. The felt rollers last all day and can actually be cleaned and re-used if you have enough solvent and are so inclined.

[KelseyB]

Originally Posted by psk125

We gave Brightsides a trial on a section of our deck. It held up less than a week underfoot. Your learning even sooner that it doesn't work well on deck is actually a blessing - imagine if you had done your entire deck and found out two weeks later that it wasn't bonding well, after you had already painted the rest. We did our deck with 2-part Interlux paint about 15 years ago. It held up well for about 12 years, then started to look pretty shabby. We then tried Interdeck, to see if that would work. It was a bit better than Brightsides but still not good for much more than a season. We bit the bullet again at the start of this season and went to Awlgrip, adding Griptex for the nonskid. Since the prep work for one-part is essentially the same as for two-part, paying more for the two-part is well worthwhile. Instead of having to re-do the prep and pay for new paint perhaps every five years, we expect the our new Awlgrip to last perhaps another fifteen years.
One thing we learned - use short nap felt rollers instead of foam. The foam rollers disintegrate in the paint solvents after about two batches. The felt rollers last all day and can actually be cleaned and re-used if you have enough solvent and are so inclined.

I was planning on using Interdeck for the nonskid - do you think I need to scrap the Brightsides for the edges entirely, even if some of it is holding up and I was planning on just removing that which didn't? (I also have more Brightsides and it would be a bummer to waste). It won't be walked on, really, it's just for the toerail, seats of the cockpit (which will have teak seats overtop) and in between patches of nonskid.

[KelseyB]

Well, in case anyone was curious, the answer is CitriStrip! It says to leave on for 30 minutes to 24 hours, but the poly was so weak, it came off after 15 minutes without damaging the epoxy below with just a plastic scraper.

Here's the proof from my test square:

[mitiempo]

Originally Posted by KelseyB

I was planning on using Interdeck for the nonskid - do you think I need to scrap the Brightsides for the edges entirely, even if some of it is holding up and I was planning on just removing that which didn't? (I also have more Brightsides and it would be a bummer to waste). It won't be walked on, really, it's just for the toerail, seats of the cockpit (which will have teak seats overtop) and in between patches of nonskid.

Interdeck is basically Brightside with grit in it.

[JPA Cate]

Kelsey, I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but I'm feeling quite concerned that if the bond is so poor between your Brightside and the epoxy primer as to be so easily removed, that probably the whole lot needs to come off. Don't take it on my word, though, check with the manufacturer... and good luck. The bond issue needs solving before you try to move forward.

Ann

If you haven't already bought your non-skid, there's a different product that might work for you. Friends of ours used it on their aluminum boat, and we used it (on their recommendation) on this one: acrylmeric sport cote. It is water based, and has excellent non-skid properties.

Ann

[s/v Jedi]

I agree with Ann above but we're in the Awlgrip camp because we know it works after using it for 15 years.

I recommend to strip all the 1-part paint and only use a 2-part polyurethane for topcoat, over a 2-part epoxy primer.

[KelseyB]

I definitely agree that I won't be using the interlux the next time I have to do this. Unfortunately I have already bought the paint, so I'm just going to try and prep as well as I can and touch it up as I go. I think I have diagnosed that what made some of it stick and not the rest is the time of day I painted it - I thought I painted early enough that the dew wouldn't get to it, but I think I was wrong, so next time I'll do it even earlier in the day. If it only lasts a year, then it'll only last a year and next time I'll be using something else. Luckily as a live aboard, I'll be able to catch any problem spots as they arise along the way.