How do I strip some, not all, of my deck paint?

[s/v Jedi]

Originally Posted by KelseyB

I definitely agree that I won't be using the interlux the next time I have to do this. Unfortunately I have already bought the paint, so I'm just going to try and prep as well as I can and touch it up as I go. I think I have diagnosed that what made some of it stick and not the rest is the time of day I painted it - I thought I painted early enough that the dew wouldn't get to it, but I think I was wrong, so next time I'll do it even earlier in the day. If it only lasts a year, then it'll only last a year and next time I'll be using something else. Luckily as a live aboard, I'll be able to catch any problem spots as they arise along the way.

There’s a catch: you must remove all the paint before you can put a 2-part polyurethane on the epoxy primer. So all the paint you put on now, must be removed before repainting.

[psk125]

Originally Posted by KelseyB

I was planning on using Interdeck for the nonskid - do you think I need to scrap the Brightsides for the edges entirely, even if some of it is holding up and I was planning on just removing that which didn't? (I also have more Brightsides and it would be a bummer to waste). It won't be walked on, really, it's just for the toerail, seats of the cockpit (which will have teak seats overtop) and in between patches of nonskid.

The Brightsides - even in the non-nonskid areas - will not last long enough to be worth the effort it took to put it down. Some people use it for the topsides, where it doesn't get stepped on, but they still re-do their topsides often. Interdeck is only marginally better. It starts to look mediocre quite soon after application. If you have 2-part primer in place, go with 2-part topcoats. If you've already bought the paint perhaps you can return it? You don't want to spend your entire time living aboard painting and repainting. Especially if you have a steel boat you need the best paint possible to try to stop the rust.