How do I make window frames for my CAL 31?

[Grant Guthrie]

Hi 👋🏼

The previous owners of our CAL 31 ripped out the original window fames, and did a terrible job putting the new windows in using black silicon and bolts that cracked the perspex / plexiglass windows. We need to fix this. Does anybody have any ideas how we can make this look better either by manufacturing frames (inexpensively) or a trick to make it look prettier when we put in the new windows as these ones are cracked and need replacing anyway.



More photos of the current windows: https://photos.app.goo.gl/JxZHre8HARu98rbYA

[Uncle Bob]

Originally Posted by Grant Guthrie

Hi ����

The previous owners of our CAL 31 ripped out the original window fames, and did a terrible job putting the new windows in using black silicon and bolts that cracked the perspex / plexiglass windows. We need to fix this. Does anybody have any ideas how we can make this look better either by manufacturing frames (inexpensively) or a trick to make it look prettier when we put in the new windows as these ones are cracked and need replacing anyway.



More photos of the current windows: https://photos.app.goo.gl/JxZHre8HARu98rbYA

Hi, the holes drilled for the bolts were too small and the bolts were probably too tight. The holes in the perspex need to be generous because the material expands and contracts a lot with the weather. For this reason the silicone (use glazing silicone) needs a thick bed that will allow the required movement without tearing.
When I have done it I use a neat low profile bolt with an allen key socket, a slightly oversize stainless washer and a 6mm rubber standoff between the glazing and cabin side to keep the bed to the right thickness, this way when the expansion occurs the perspex moves on the bolts and still has sufficient bed thickness to accomodate the movement without distorting or tearing.
Can be a bit fiddly but it does work.

Also, dome nuts look soo much better than nylocks.

[michaeld]

Contact Mark Plastics in Corona, CA. https://markplastics.com/
They manufactured new frames and deadlights for out Cal 2-27.

Good luck.

[mvweebles]

Mark is old school. Call him vs email.

+1 951-735-7705

He does fine work and prices are reasonable for thr quality you get

Tell him Peter from. Willard 36 sent you his way.

Peter

[Benz]

When I bolted new plexiglass panels over our Irwin 27 ports, I painted a black band around the perimeter so the goo and the cabin side wouldn't show through. The paint was on the inside face, and it made it look like a frame, but without the hassle of a frame.

[sail sfbay]

Buy custom portlights from Man Ship through southern California dealet Marine Depot.

[Cpt Mark]

If you want to make your own frames you need to decide what you want them to do. Hold the windows in or just cover them up to be pretty. If it's just cover up you could use teak and glue it down or screw it in to the fiberglass so easily removed later. Bronze you could do the same or make matching frames inside and out that bolt together. Bronze is pretty easy to work with.

[Boatyarddog]

Originally Posted by Grant Guthrie

Hi 👋🏼

The previous owners of our CAL 31 ripped out the original window fames, and did a terrible job putting the new windows in using black silicon and bolts that cracked the perspex / plexiglass windows. We need to fix this. Does anybody have any ideas how we can make this look better either by manufacturing frames (inexpensively) or a trick to make it look prettier when we put in the new windows as these ones are cracked and need replacing anyway.



More photos of the current windows: https://photos.app.goo.gl/JxZHre8HARu98rbYA

https://markplastics.com/
Makes marine Windows and frames, metal and plastic for many common boats.
Great source.
SV Cloud Duster

[peter loveridge]

If you want to make an aluminum frame, here's one way. Get some aluminum bar stock about 1" x 1/8". Smear the part you want to bend with soap ( the solid sort) heat with a blowtorch with a wide flame. When the soap goes black you can bend it to just about any radius you want. Keep it flat by pounding it on an anvil. Takes a bit of practice for the first one. To drill hole in lexan plexiglass, etc, clamp pieces of wood tightly both sides of where you want to drill hole, use a drill press if you can and go slow

[Culwatty]

Not a complete answer, but if you go the diy route, project brupeg on youtube did a video about how to best cut, and drill into acrylic (similar material to perspex) very informative and might make you feel batter about doing it yourself! It's really not hard, just take your time!

Other advice above about thick bed of mastic, hole size and tightness I'd agree with, my two pence make a wooden surround inside with a bevel that hides the sealant make a Jig of plywood and run the router around it to make the frames then both sides of the boat will be the same

[Franziska]

I did cut some polycarbonate yesterday.
An oscillating saw works well for curves. You cut several times from both sides until you are through.
An angle grinder with a thin cutting disk for stainless works as well.

Small radiuses in the corner can be achieved with a coarse grinding disk.
Just remove the melted plastic regularly.

I had a small crack and drilled at its end with a Dremel a small hole to stop it from further cracking. Used the combination drill router bit for it.
The holes can be filled in with epoxy, especially when the epoxy is hidden by the black UV protection described next. If not epoxy yellows with UV.

We decided to forgo any mechanical fasteners and external frames in the future and structurally bond entirely with Sika 295UV.
Usually mechanical fasteners are where it cracks. Oversized holes are a must if you use mechanical fasteners.
The most important is to use their 209 black primer on the window gluing surface and (crucial!!) protect the gluing surface also from UV by painting a black cover strip onto the window outside where it's glued.
Alternatively use a black UV protection tape on the outside.
Sika has a very good manual for this.

That way the window will glue very well and last longterm.
Just got of the phone talking to the Sikaflex technical department. They confirmed the absolute necessity of using the external UV protection as well.

[Ivansgarage]

I would look at rubber seal like that is used for automotive windows.... and then fix the holes with epoxy the idiot drilled in the frames.... you could buy lexan (not plexi glass) at home depot to make new windows... don't tell me it is not strong enough.. used it in my plane, lasted over 20 years no problems...

https://www.trimlok.com/rubber-extru...BoCEyUQAvD_BwE

http://ivanbennett.com/pics.html

http://ivanbennett.com/images/titan.jpg

[Franziska]

Originally Posted by Ivansgarage

I would look at rubber seal like that is used for automotive windows.... and then fix the holes with epoxy the idiot drilled in the frames.... you could buy lexan (not plexi glass) at home depot to make new windows... don't tell me it is not strong enough.. used it in my plane, lasted over 20 years no problems...

https://www.trimlok.com/rubber-extru...BoCEyUQAvD_BwE

http://ivanbennett.com/pics.html

http://ivanbennett.com/images/titan.jpg

Your right about Lexan which is polycarbonate.
Tough like hell, but scratches more easily than Plexi.
The toughness of Lexan is great for any front facing windows which might get green water on it.

[EngineerRetired]

Assuming you want a single piece window (non-opening) I suggest looking at https://www.trimlok.com/rubber-extru...sket/two-piece


They can make the openings any size you need to accommodate the hull thickness. No frame needed, no holes needed, use a good adhesive and its done. I suggest getting one of their tools to put the window into the seal.


I've used this to put windshields in 70+ MPH go fast boats, never an issue.

[Grant Guthrie]

Thanks for all the great advice everyone - I definitely have many options to think about now!