Holding Tank Pump Out

[Tayana42]

a64pilot, my toilet flushes only to the holding tank. The tank discharge is through the deck pump out or through the seacock overboard. I use a Whale Gusher Titan manual pump for overboard discharge. I only open the seacock while I'm discharging and always close it immediately after because there is nothing but the pump valves to keep the ocean out. I pump overboard about half of the time, and we are full time live aboard so our 35 gal holding tank lasts about a week. The Gusher Titan has worked well for us. Empties the tank in about 50-55 strokes ( about 2 minutes. After 7 years use the diaphragm is allowing odor through so I am about to rebuild it with the nitrile service kit. I see on the Whale web site that they now have a manual pump specific for black water.


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[a64pilot]

Manual is probably a good idea, saves all the wiring, CB's etc., and usually can be counted on. My tank is above the waterline, but I don't want to rely on gravity alone. I can see how that could end up draining the liquids off, leaving some solids and that building up over time.

[bsurvey]

you need a riser loop -siphon break or check valve in the system so you don't take a back siphon and flood out the boat through the commode
siphon break is not practical nor is check valve as it will get clogged with particulate and the siphon break will methane gas to the inside of the boat. so loop above the waterline is the way to go

[Terra Nova]

Place a sanitary-T in the discharge line just below the tank outlet fitting. No need for Y-valves. Open seacock only for discharge.

For the forward head, run the discharge line to a new holding tank.

[a64pilot]

Originally Posted by Terra Nova

For the forward head, run the discharge line to a new holding tank.

I can see where that might be the ideal solution, I just don't want two holding tanks and the work and expense of installing a second.
I just don't see it being a hardship to have to walk 5 more ft. to use a head when we can't direct discharge, but the Admiral will be the one to decide that.
I wanted to eliminate the front head and put a washing machine there, but she said no, which surprised me.

[Terra Nova]

Originally Posted by a64pilot

... I just don't see it being a hardship to have to walk 5 more ft. to use a head when we can't direct discharge...

You have to use your head to see it.

You might have guests staying aboard with you, and it is more convenient/private for guests to use the forward head. Remove the forward head if you don't need it.

[Cadence]

For those with below the WL through hull and holding tank you need a inverted P trap, above the WL, with a vent to keep water out. I'd still close the seacock.

[sunbear1]

I saw a tank and hand pump on wheels for sale somewhere as a--and it looked very easy to build--found plans online for one--http://nsgl.gso.uri.edu/ncu/ncug82002.pdf Adapters for the thruhulls and various types of hose ends are available lots

[Cowboy Sailer]

I connect an air pump to the vent line from the holding tank and apply 5 psi. That will empty the holding tank in 1 minute and 43 seconds! The Y valve has been turned so that the line from the holding tank is connected to the thru hull. Afterwards I turn the Y valve to connect the head to the thru hull. Then I reconnect the vent line to its outside port. Close to shore I turn the Y valve to connect the head to the holding tank.
So one Y valve that can connect any 2 ports. One connector in the vent line.

[ranger58sb]

Originally Posted by a64pilot

I think I'll end up with the front head as direct discharge to keep the hose run short and simple and therefore easy to replace, and only connect the rear head to the holding tank, have it discharge into the tank, no bypass, but have a diaphragm waste pump ( not a macerator) to empty it as well as being able to pump it out.
Does the law stipulate all heads have to be connected to a holding tank? I know you have to have a holding tank, in my plan the fwd head would not be used when we needed the holding tank is all, so we will not be discharging when we aren't supposed to.

I think I would start with the assumption that the aft head will crap out (so to speak) at an inopportune moment, making the forward head necessary for immediate use... which in turn means connected to a holding tank. 'Cause it'll all probably happen inshore.

Was your forward head not already attached to the (single?) holding tank? Or didn't have it's own tank?

Assuming you could run hose from forward head to the single holding tank... it's not like you'd have to replace it again in boatloads of years. (Ever?)

Or if the hose run is completely out of the question and you have a bit of space, you might look at Raritan's Hold 'n' Treat system for your forward head...

I dunno much about the differences between diaphragm pumps and macerator pumps... but our waste is already macerated once on the way from head to holding tank... so I'd guess either might work for our installation. Happens I've been thinking about it 'cause our discharge macerator happens to have crapped out... so I need to replace it with something...

-Chris

[Cadence]

Originally Posted by Cowboy Sailer

I connect an air pump to the vent line from the holding tank and apply 5 psi. That will empty the holding tank in 1 minute and 43 seconds! The Y valve has been turned so that the line from the holding tank is connected to the thru hull. Afterwards I turn the Y valve to connect the head to the thru hull. Then I reconnect the vent line to its outside port. Close to shore I turn the Y valve to connect the head to the holding tank.
So one Y valve that can connect any 2 ports. One connector in the vent line.

I think I lost my last post. It sounds like a great idea. No pumps or macerators to go bad. What do you use for the 5 PSI?

[Cowboy Sailer]

I have an electric (120 VAC) pump to fill my inflatable dinghy. West Marine- low pressure lots of volume. My holding tank is above the water line. The waste line goes to the top of the tank and then down a dip tube. I guess the air pump really just starts the siphon action. Some Y valves have a stop that can be removed to allow full rotation of the Y so that one can connect any two ports to each other.

[Cheechako]

Originally Posted by Terra Nova

Place a sanitary-T in the discharge line just below the tank outlet fitting. No need for Y-valves. Open seacock only for discharge.

For the forward head, run the discharge line to a new holding tank.

yep... that's the simplest solution I've had. My tank was bulkhead mounted and the tank would gravity drain also to boot!
no wires, no stuck 3 way valves etc.

[lordgeoff]

Originally Posted by a64pilot

Currently the only way to empty my holding tank is to pump it out at a station.
I was thinking though that I could put in a diaphragm pump off a T from the pump out hose and connect it to the current thru hull, without any valves?
My idea is that with the cap on the pump out fitting, the pump could only pull from the tank so I don't need a valve there, and the valves in the pump would prevent back flow when I pump out regularly.

Why won't this work?

Use a thru hull fitting with a valve. Use gravity to drop the tank. If you wait for a pump out station you will be up to your armpits in sewerage!!!!

[lordgeoff]

Originally Posted by a64pilot

Manual is probably a good idea, saves all the wiring, CB's etc., and usually can be counted on. My tank is above the waterline, but I don't want to rely on gravity alone. I can see how that could end up draining the liquids off, leaving some solids and that building up over time.

When I am going offshore I regularly fill up the holding tanks with fresh water and some soap and let the brew slosh around for a few days before dumping at see. Beauuuuutiful!!!