Help With Spraying Awlcraft 2000

[SF Bay Dude]

I am heading down to Mexico in a few weeks, and looking forward to (finally!) wrapping up painting the deck. I figured I better run a test patch to make sure my equipment was operational, so went out and bought a 3'x5' super smooth piece of MDF. I laid down 5 coats on 545 and sanded smooth with 400 grit. Clean wipe down, etc… following all procedure. I am using a DevilBiss FLG4 gun with a 1.3 tip at about 20-25psi at the gun regulator.

I mixed my Awlcraft 2000 to the proper ratios and thinned about 20%. I followed the spec sheet instructions in regards to application. Here's the direct quote from the manufacturer:

Apply a light, smooth, slightly wet tack coat to the surface. Allow tack coat to “flash off” 15- 45 minutes. Allow the second coat to “flash off” 30-45 minutes until only slightly tacky before applying the third coat. Coats two and three are not “full, wet” coats. The second coat is a slightly heavy tack coat with the third coat just wet enough to obtain full hide (opacity) or color coverage. More than 3 coats may be required to achieve full hide (opacity) or color coverage.

Paint hasn't fully cured, so maybe it will lay down and stretch, but I dunno... The finish seemed very stippled to me and unacceptable for how much prep has gone into this. Again, this is due to me interpreting the instructions. I viewed it as, "don't lay down three full coats." What's does a "slightly wet tack coat" actually mean? I am thinking I need to lay down three full coats to get the proper finish. The paint seems to flash off super fast, and so I don't think sags are going to be an issue.(?)

Most of my deck is non skid, but I want the coach roof sides and other fine surfaces to shine and look like glass. I figure I'll let it cure up and see what's going on. If not, I'll sand down smooth and then give it another couple coats to try and dial things in.

Also, since Awlcraft 2K is buff-able, could I use some compound to knock things down a bit? Obviously that's not the point of this whole operation, but just wondering again if anyone has experience with it and what the outcome is.

I would love to hear any tips and feedback from anyone else with first-hand experience.

Thanks!

[model 10]

It shouldn't flash off that quickly, you probably need some retarder. Retarder is different than thinner. IMHO the first coat should be thick enough to lay down but not come close to covering. As soon as it is tacky enough to hold more paint, then the second coat. If the prep was good you might not need 3 coats. The more paint you put on the more problems you could have.

[SF Bay Dude]

Originally Posted by Guy

It shouldn't flash off that quickly, you probably need some retarder.

Well, I say super quick, but the first coat was about 10-15 minutes, which is on the fast side, bit still per the specs on the instructions. I am using T0001, which is the fast reducer, so that might have something to do with it. I could also thin a bit more, as I was around the 18% mark. Although not sure if that will speed things up because it's more fast reducer.

You say laying down more paint is an issue, and I guess I could see solvent pop if I really hosed on the paint with more than 3 coats, but I feel like the directions are ambiguous and I need more paint. I definitely didn't have enough paint on the first pass to "lay down." Again, I read a light tack coat as something different than what they are saying.

Thank you for the advice and input Guy, I appreciate it!

[Joli]

I lay down the tack coat and go sit and have a beer, go back and spray another, drink another beer then shoot the last coat. It’s easy to go to quickly and lay down to heavy a coat. I’m probably 25~30 minutes between coats. If you’re not happy with the finish you can sand with 1200 grit and polish to a perfect finish. And since you are doing the deck you can spray the non skid too, three coats come out beautiful.

[tomrealest]

I wouldn't recommend Alwcraft 2000 especially on decks. I used it from the rub rail up and was extremely disappointed at how the decks didn't whole up. The job was done professionally. Yards like to use it because it is easy to fix your mistakes. The old professionals I talk to now prefer the new AwlGrip. I won't use Awlcraft again because of my experience.

[sand6000]

Stippled (orange peel) is caused by gun settings not the product being used although some paints are more difficult than others, Aelcraft 2000 is about the easiest. You need to try for settings with your equipment that will give you good atomisation without using too much pressure and volume of paint. Keep experimenting with your setup.

[Mithril Bham]

Painting correctly takes practice which is why it's best to get a pro. Someone who is doing it all the time. Like welding, you can do it yourself, but someone doing it everyday is probably going to do a lot better job. Big investment to screw up.

[Squanderbucks]

Spraying 545 Primer is pretty easy but is nothing like the topcoats. I was taught that a different spray tip should be used for the Primers and the topcoats. Smaller to get a much finer atomization for the topcoat. Here is my process for the use of Awlgrip. Sand surface to be primed with 180 or 220 grit, Spray primer, sand out any blemishes with 220 grit and Spray another coat of primer - If surface is nice then scuff entire surface with 3M Scotchbrite pads. If any sanding is needed and you can be sure not to go through the primer at any place use 320 grit. Vacuum surface, wipe down with Alcohol rags with continual exposing of a clean surface and replace rags (lint free of course) often. Wear latex gloves especially for the final wipe down and let no sweat or skin oil get on the surface. If you do feel there is any body oil on surface you can do a final wipe down with a NAPA product (Klean-Easy 6383 ) for cleaning surface as last step . Wipe with Tack rags.
If your final surface has been sanded too slick (above 320) bonding can be an issue sometimes.
Using the fine spray tip spray the entire surface with a very light "tack" coat. This makes no pretense at coverage - just a little more than a quick go over.
Let set about or up to 15 minutes (depending on the air temp. Then go back and spray on the first real coat- it too will be relatively thin but covered just enough to have an even wet surface which begins to show you what the color will be like - but not a "rich" look yet. It will look pretty good but with experience you will be able to see that the primer is almost showing through the paint. Let this set about One hour.
Then go back and spray another coat working the same way - but now you should be able to see that the color is very nice and two coats may be enough. If not wait another hour and put down a third coat the same way. Vertical surfaces need a lighter touch. There is a definite art to knowing when the maximum amount of paint is laid down and still no runs. Awlgrip is notorious for being very temperamental about getting the technique just right. When done correctly it's hard to beat but takes experience. If the paint is not thinned enough it will never spray smooth and if too thin it will run like crazy. Adjust your speed of coating to the way you have the paint thinned. Quicker, lighter coats and more coats for overly thinned applications.
Because you are doing a deck which is horizontal you get a little help as a first timer and can get away with a little techinque issues.
Orange peel is a problem with equipment setup or paint mixing, fish-eyes and holidays are issues with surface prep. Runs with mix or technique.
Make a new mix for each coat (count tack as part of a coat). Clean gun between each coat as well - especially if using the X cellerator which I do when painting outside to avoid insects and dust sticking to a tack surface.

You can put excess paint in a Freezer and use it later (even overnight) if allowed to warm up a few minutes. Do not do this with paint still in the spray gun.