Help me choose the best adhesive...

[Steve Bean]

I've been using a polyurethane product made by "Loctite" called "ProLine S40". I get it at Home Depot, much cheaper than 5200, and it behaves exactly like 5200, as far as I can tell.

[Terra Nova]

Originally Posted by Wotname

...Actone has no place anywhere near skin...
expanding PU glue...In some applications it is better than epoxy...
It IS stronger than epoxy when gluing tight fitting wooden joints. A tightly fitted wooden joint does not allow enough epoxy for the full strength of the epoxy to be realized...
PU WILL...expand into the micro surface of the timber faces making for a very strong joint; more so than a thin epoxy film.

...Bull...

[Wotname]

Originally Posted by Terra Nova

...Bull...

Presumably this expression indicates that you disagree (even strongly disagree) with the quoted statements appearing above you statement.

Well of course you are entitled to your opinion and far be it from me to to persuade you to opine otherwise.

But for other readers, I would like to advise that the quoted opinions TN referred to are also held by none other than the management of Bote Cote; at least they were when I attended a seminar run by them on their products which are primarily designed for the modern wooden boat market. Bote Cote are Australian manufacturers and suppliers of both epoxies and expanding PU adhesives so they don't have a biased view to either product. It is possible that they were wrong and if TN can provide any credible evidence to support his/her opinion, I would happy to hear of it; especially as such evidence would contradict my experience of epoxy and expanding PU.

I note also that the acetone comment is also included in TN's negative opinion. Again I have no wish to change his/her viewpoint but I suggest to others that acetone is simply a very bad solvent to be placed on one's skin. Please don't take my word for it, read up on it or at least read the MSDS and make your own opinion.

I have way used way too much acetone (and it's big brother MEK) on my skin over the years but I would never suggest others to do the same now I know better .

[atoll]

gorilla glue is basically the same as balcotan regular,setting in 30 minutes-1hour.
balcotan rapid sets in 5-10 minutes so either are good for the application.

which as I understand is gluing wood battens to support cosmetic facia on the inside of the hull.

this being a non-structural,cosmetic type application so in that respect using epoxy would be time consuming,expensive and messy.

in either case the battons would have to be clamped or held against the hull until the glue cured.

with epoxy this would involve leaving the battons clamped for at least 6-12 hours.
with pu glue it would require less than an hour.

I know what I would use!

[Thumbs Up]

West System G5, you have to work fast but only need to hold it in place for a minute. Not as strong as slow cure but still very strong.

[Wotname]

A handy trick when using a slow setting epoxy is to spot glue a couple of points with a fast setting epoxy (say a 3 or 5 minute epoxy). You hold the components in place while the fast setting epoxy cures and then you can let it go and the fast cured spots will hold the structure together while the bulk of the joint cures with the standard epoxy.

However I agree with Atoll assuming the job can be suitably clamped or secured against the pressures of the expanding PU.

[captain58sailin]

Still not clear on the expected application. Anyway, I have a few products that I use consistently for different applications. For bonding a bulkhead to the hull, I would use Systems 3 epoxy, for thru hull fittings I use 5200. The epoxy creates a molecular bond with the fiberglass, makes for a strong joint. 5200 can be loosened by heating it or the fitting that was being sealed. I use Sikaflex for bedding something that I want water tight but may want to extract latter. If by nothing more than trial and error you will find the products that best suit your applications and temperament. I remember back in the day we used to use acetone to wash our hands after laying fiberglass. I only hope my liver will forgive me when I get older, I plan on doing more drinking and less glassing. So I echo the others, do not let your skin come in direct contact with any of these toxic chemicals.

[minaret]

Six10 or Proset Fast, especially if you have a lot to do.




NEW Six10 Epoxy Adhesive




http://www.jamestowndistributors.com...ct.do?pid=1532

[Alii]

Originally Posted by Scout 30

I wonder if the polyurethane glue would work on hypalon. I've got to re-glue the rub rail & transom to my Avon & I'm not sure what to use.

TipTop SC2000, for this job and just about anything. I used it to rebuild an 18' hypalon RIB boat, including reattaching the transom and double rub-rail. The boat is a tender to a 116' liveaboard scuba diving yacht, with a 65HP outboard, carrying heavy loads of divers and gear at high speeds over often rough waters. It has been back in service almost a year now, good as new.

[Philip St1]

Hi

Having built a 34 foot catamaran, and now starting on my 45 footer, I recommend you have a five gallon pail around with one or two gallons of vinegar in it. Nothing cleans up epoxy like vinegar. After cleaning the bulk off with what is in the pail, I pour some fresh from the jugs it comes in to finish getting anything remaining off. If you can drink it, it can't be bad for you. I shudder to think that anyone still thinks you can use acetone for epoxy. Works for tools. To reuse a brush after cleaning it with vinegar you need to wash it in soap and water after, then dry. Any remaining vinegar will interfere with the epoxy it hits next time. Use disposable brushes--especially when you use epoxy for gluing. You must use gloves. You must use gloves. You must use gloves. It can not be emphasized enough. Epoxy doesn't smell, but good air is also essential. Of course, I was doing large projects--gallon after gallon.

[minaret]

Originally Posted by Alii

TipTop SC2000, for this job and just about anything. I used it to rebuild an 18' hypalon RIB boat, including reattaching the transom and double rub-rail. The boat is a tender to a 116' liveaboard scuba diving yacht, with a 65HP outboard, carrying heavy loads of divers and gear at high speeds over often rough waters. It has been back in service almost a year now, good as new.

Or this stuff-

[Scout 30]

Thanks to Alii for the tip on SC2000. I'll be using that for my repair. I tried the 1 part glue that came with the boat but it was garbage. I bought my first Avon back in the 80's & it held up great. I bought the one I've lot now in '99 & the rub rail has completely come off & the transom is coming off. The rest of it's perfect but it's still frustrating that such an expensive boat would have these problems.

[Scout 30]

And thanks to Minaret also. The problem with the transom is that it's painted plywood & the fabric is coming off with the paint. I need to strip the transom down to bare wood & epoxy it. I was thinking about epoxying the fabric to the epoxied transom but I'm not sure that's a good idea.