Heat Gun Tips

[Raven]

My heat gun has become one of my most valued tools for maintaining brightwork. I'm about to tackle the stripping and refinishing of grab rails on the cabin top. I do not want to remove the rails to do the work, though. Can those of you who have used a heat gun in close proximity to gelcoat tell me what you do to protect the surrounding areas from excess heat? Thanks much.

[CSY Man]

I tape over the surrounding area..Not that it blocks much heat, but if the tape starts smoking it may be a signal.

I tend to move the heat gun around quite a bit, like spraypainting a car. Don't wan't any hotspot..

Have not stripped much the last few years:
Started using Bristol Finish instead of varnish back in 2001 and it seems to be holding good in the sun although it takes mainteance, but less than traditional varnish.

[senormechanico]

Aluminum foil.

[mike d.]

i did my coaming last yr with a heat gun. i just moved it back and forth on the length. and peeled with a putty knife like butter. i kept feeling the temp after moving the heat around. found that mildly hot to touch worked best. (note this was under cover, with the ends open. if you don't point down, but from low at a slight angle up most of the heat will go up at the rails. what's left will be a little harder to removeas you go along. got on three coats of epifanes in one day the same way (under cover) good luck!!

[hellosailor]

Raven, there are non-asbestos "cloths" now that are sold as heat shields for plumbers using torches, etc. That's one way to go. Or you can do like the cheaper plumbers and use a wet rag. Or, aluminum foil folded over a wet paper towel, which gives you a "stiffer" thin shield.

[Raven]

Originally Posted by hellosailor

Raven, there are non-asbestos "cloths" now that are sold as heat shields for plumbers using torches, etc. That's one way to go. Or you can do like the cheaper plumbers and use a wet rag. Or, aluminum foil folded over a wet paper towel, which gives you a "stiffer" thin shield.

Hmmm. I'll have to look into those plumber's "cloths." I'd been thinking that I'd just use aluminum foil, but the foil folded around a wet paper towel sounds effective, too.

Now, I just have to wait for this latest Nor'easter to pass. A winter storm warning is in effect for tomorrow and it doesn't look like things are gonna dry up until Thursday . . .

[CSY Man]

Now, I just have to wait for this latest Nor'easter to pass

In that case you won't have a problem with too much heat...

Using the plumber's asbestos stuff have not been needed when I have used a heat-gun..(Hot Air) as compared to a plumber's open flame. Maybe apples and oranges?

[Benny]

Kevin - as I mentioned on another thread try the 3M safe paste stripper. It goes on like tile adhesive and leave overnight. When you peel it off, all the old layers of varnish will come with it. Do a little water rinse and a little bronze wool and presto - you're ready to refinish

[Benny]

Just bGoogled the 3M products - looks like they don't make anymore - however anothe rproduct - same properties is at this site - good luck

Ready Strip paint stripper and varnish remover

[GordMay]

High Temperature Welding Blankets
Wilson welding blankets, welding curtains, laser barriers, strip curtains, high temperature blankets, free standing curtains, auto body curtains, free standing screens, & auto bay curtains

Using a heat gun (to strip) takes a little bit of skill, and really works best on flat surfaces with thicker layers of paint.
It's important to keep the gun gently moving, covering small spaces (3" x 6") at a time. Holding the gun steady for too long can burn the paint, the substrate, and/or overheat adjacent surfaces. Keep a water filled spray bottle nearby, to dampen and cool adjacent surfaces, which may have inadvertently become overheated.
If your scraper gets gunked up, it becomes less effective, and leaves more paint residue on the work - clean your scraper frequently.

[Raven]

Originally Posted by GordMay

Using a heat gun (to strip) takes a little bit of skill, and really works best on flat surfaces with thicker layers of paint.
It's important to keep the gun gently moving, covering small spaces (3" x 6") at a time. Holding the gun steady for too long can burn the paint, the substrate, and/or overheat adjacent surfaces.

Agreed. Care must be taken. Once you get the hang of it, though, the heat gun is a terrific tool. In order to protect the gelcoat surrounding my cabin-top grab rails I could remove the rails before stripping, but I don't want to go through the hassle.

Thanks for the link.

[GordMay]

I wouldn’t suggest removing the rails, prior to heat-gun stripping.

The simple precautions, already noted, should prevent any damage to surrounding gel-coat.
Since you want to keep the soft varnish/paint scrapings from staining the gel-coat, you’ll be using some kind of drop sheet, which may as well be a heat shield. The wet rag/towel works fine*, and the water sprayer will take care of any inadvertent heating overshoots.

*I had other uses for the Welding Blanket, which justified the expense.

[rebel heart]

I'm doing a bunch of varnish removal right now (hiding out in the cabin with the laptop because the weather is a bit harsh up top). I went to Home Depot today and bought my own Milwak heat gun since I've been borrowing my neighbor's. I also picked up an accessory kit for $7.

http://www.absolutehome.com/assets/i...-milwaukee.jpg

That concentrator might help the original poster. I like the idea of tin foil too.

My question is: are there any particular favorite scrapers for nooks and crannies? Someone said something about a hook scraper on the dock yesterday.

[Oceansandmts]

I like the ProPrep scrapers with a variety of replacable blade shapes. Easy to sharpen once you take the blade off the handle. Available at Jamestown Distributors.

[sneuman]

Not another gun thread!

Sorry, couldn't resist.