Haul Out Maintenance Plan

[Buchido]

I’m a new boat owner, so I’ve never had to do the million tasks to keep her ship shape and could focus on sailing. But I’m a fairly handy, growing up with a mechanic as a father, and I have been enjoying the work.

I’m planning on putting her up on the hard for a week or two sometime in the next few months, and I would appreciate any input/comments from you guys regarding my work plan (see below). Please let me know if there is anything else I should be doing during this time or anything to be mindful of and also how much time you think it should take (I’ll apply the fudge factor for being a newbie). I want to make as much use of this opportunity as possible.

She is a 1975 Catalina 27’ with a Universal Atomic-4 gas engine. I should also note that I have never had a professional survey done, as the survey would have cost a significant portion of the boat and it wasn’t required by my insurance company. I did one myself, following a book I bought for $30; though I never pulled her out and have yet to see the bottom of the hull. I know I took a risk, but the cost was small and I could easily walk away. But she doesn’t leak and sails fine so at least I know the rudder and keel are still there

So finally here is what I plan to do:

1. Clean/Paint the bottom
After I clean the bottom, I will inspect the hull for any blistering that I think should be fixed and the through hull fittings to see if any need to be replaced. It has been 1.5 years since she has seen a fresh coat of bottom paint. I know some people paint every year, whereas others paint every 2-3 years, I’m guessing it depends on the climate/water conditions and whether they are racers or cruisers. If the paint looks in good condition and is not flaking off should I leave it? Or should it still be redone to maintain its antifouling properties? Also any suggestions on the type/brand?

Also any suggestions on what to do on the top deck, just clean and buff with wax?

2. Change the Anodes/Zincs
I presume these would only be located on metal surfaces submerged in water, so the propeller and shaft, as well as the raw water heat exchanger, and possibly the rudder post. Would there be others elsewhere? How many is typical, I don’t want to miss any.

3. Fix the knotmeter
We have a SR Mariner knotmeter that isn’t working. I’m not sure what the problem is but I hope to fix it. Is there a way to dry test these things?

4. Exterior Wood Trim
I was planning on sanding and varnishing the small amount of wood trim around the companion way, as it is bleached white and I wanted to protect it from rot. However, I recently read that you are not supposed to do anything to exterior teak as it has natural oils that protect it. I don’t know if it’s teak or not, any suggestions on how to tell or what to do here.

5. keel
Is there anything here that needs to be done? Does, the joint where the keel attaches to the hull need to be resealed during bottom painting? I know I would sleep easier if I could figure out the condition of the keel bolts. Can you easily take them out to inspect/replace them? If so, how is this done.

6. dripless packing in the stuffing box
The packing in my stuffing box is still working fine, so I don’t know if it is worth doing anything and I don’t know how to inspect it. But I have been contemplating changing the packing material to a dripless type to prevent the ever present water in the bilge. I haven’t done much research on this but if anyone has any suggestions, please feel free.


Thanks in advance for any help. And if you have any other maintenance advice or just links, please feel free. As I said I’ve never owned a boat before and it’s proving quite the task to learn everything required to properly maintain it.

Thanks again,

Steve

[MarkSF]

3. Fix the knotmeter
We have a SR Mariner knotmeter that isn’t working. I’m not sure what the problem is but I hope to fix it. Is there a way to dry test these things?

Here are the instructions for the knotmeter.

http://www.srinstruments.com/manuals/klmanual.pdf

The knotmeter is a paddle that is spun by the water passing. The usual issue that stops them working is marine growth, around the hole in the hull that it passes through, and on the paddle itself.

Normal practice is to remove the whole thing from the hull when you're not sailing, and to insert the dummy plug instead. Note that a considerable jet of water will appear when you remove it. You will get to be quite deft at a rapid changeover between the log and the plug.

Have you ever removed the log to see if it spins freely? A good test is to spin the paddle by hand, and see if the display registers.

I got myself a dish brush that fits down the hole in the hull, to remove growth that stops the paddle turning.

Finally, people frequently forget to apply antifouling paint INSIDE the bore of the knotlog, so you get rapid growth in there.

[MarkSF]

Another recommendation would be to check that all the seacocks through the hull work properly, and replace any that don't, and also to replace any that aren't proper seacocks.

[bobconnie]

Just check everything ya can't get to when it's in the water!! start at the rudder and go forward! ck and repair as needed every hole thru the hull !! besure to ck for play in your engine shaft and prop, and skeg, repair as needed or if needed! really pretty simple if ya just stand back and look at things !! have fun! ( theres lots of folks around to tell ya what needs doing !!) or at least Ive always found folks hanging around! LOL

[GordMay]

Greetings and welcome aboard the CF, Steve.

Originally Posted by Buchido

3. Fix the knotmeter
We have a SR Mariner knotmeter that isn’t working. I’m not sure what the problem is but I hope to fix it. Is there a way to dry test these things?

Originally Posted by MarkSF

... Here are the instructions for the knotmeter.
http://www.srinstruments.com/manuals/klmanual.pdf

See also:
➥ http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/...ent-15440.html

[Buchido]

Originally Posted by MarkSF

The knotmeter is a paddle that is spun by the water passing. The usual issue that stops them working is marine growth, around the hole in the hull that it passes through, and on the paddle itself.

Thanks MarkSF. Hopefully, if the problem is due to growth, it can just be cleaned off and will work again.

Originally Posted by MarkSF

Normal practice is to remove the whole thing from the hull when you're not sailing, and to insert the dummy plug instead. Note that a considerable jet of water will appear when you remove it. You will get to be quite deft at a rapid changeover between the log and the plug.

Have you ever removed the log to see if it spins freely? A good test is to spin the paddle by hand, and see if the display registers.

I have never removed the log as I've only just recently became an owner. I didn't know that it was necessary. I'd be a little leery about removing it and intentionally making a hole in my boat. When you say that it is normal practice to remove it when you're not sailing, I'm assuming you mean during the off-season and not that it should be removed every time you finish your sail.

Thanks again

[bobofthenorth]

I dunno what's normal on a sailboat but there's no reason NOT to remove it between use. If its not in the boat it won't grow. And you're not going to sink the boat - you'll get a little wet but we're talking about litres of water, not even gallons and certainly not 10s of gallons.

[Amnesia II]

Haulout time is hard work but always satifying as you get down and personal with your boats bottom! First job...If you find blisters in small numbers cut/ grind them out...give them time to dry then apoxy repair. Mechanical stuff like rudder bearing, prop & shaft, cutlass bearing & through hull check can now go on.
Antifoul with an ablative paint. I like to fix a bit of rag on a stick and antifoul up inside through hull fittings...a notorious spot for barnacles!

[Buchido]

Thanks for all the advice so far. Anyone have any idea how long it should take to do all these tasks?