Has Anyone Used Copper Coat Antifouling ?

[Capn Morgan]

An update, just in case anyone is interested.

After just over two years since I applied Coppercoat my earlier findings stand. Perhaps because of poor priming, the epoxy resin that was applied to all the hull as a base for this product, came off all the metal surfaces like through-hulls. For some reason, it didn't seem to work even when it was attached to said metal surfaces.

On the rest of the surface of the hull, there was a bit of hard growth and some barnacles very loosely attached. A pressure wash as recommended by the manufacturers got rid of practically all of it. A bit of patient cleaning of the hull and then a wash with a soft, green scouring sponge revealed the copper surface, which oxidiced really quickly as it dried up and is now green. This is what is required for it to perform.

Overall, after year two, it is doing what the manufacturers say. It is not a maintenance free product, some cleaning is required from time to time, but it is very easy to snorkel and keep the hull clean (at least in the warm waters where I live) as any barnacles that grow seem not to be able to attach themselves hard to the hull.

Since the metal surfaces have now been stripped, I just painted them with normal antifouling. It took about an hour and since I bought a small quantity, it was also cheap.

[Capn Morgan]

This year I've been down with the scouring pad 3 times. Same findings as before. Hard growth mostly on soft comes off very easily. Very large areas with none at all, some areas with more but not very much. Easily removed by snorkelling. Not maintenance free but they never claimed it to be.

[Capitain Mike]

If you read the online instruction it tells you not to paint the through hulls or zinc anodes.

If you read the instructions it also tells you that it can be appied over the GRP without a epoxy barrier because copper coat is epoxy barrir itself.

They also tell you that the more muddy and warm the the water the worse the fouling.
But the fouling does come off easily and quickly.

I copper coated mine in 2009.

She was pulled out in 2010 to replace the volvo stern gland (Rubber packing box) cleaned put back in and has been there ever since with minimal growth that tends to be removed as you move through the water
the coppercoat acts slightly the same as shark skin.

Though I did get in the water and clean the prop.

The shark looses scales/skin parasites ietc as it moves so it is really swimming through a permanent Shark skin sou. It is is a multifunctional marvel. Seawater and the countless potential ecto-parasites within it (barnacle larvae, algae, bacteria, etc.) are a constant flow hazard for sharks, for whom moving efficiently through water is an imperative.

Most shark species move through water with high-efficiency in order to catch fast-moving prey, obtain sufficient oxygen through largely passive gills, and maintain buoyancy. Through its ingenious design, their skin turns out to be an essential aid in this behavior by reducing friction drag and auto-cleaning ecto-parasites from their surface. Boat manufacturers have recently taken an interest in how sharks achieve their unimpeded movement through water both because friction drag and the attachment of organisms on a ship’s hull are major sources of energy inefficiency.

As does copper coat loose surface.

Biomimicry Institute - Biomimicking Sharks

[fstbttms]

Originally Posted by Capitain Mike

They also tell you that the more muddy and warm the the water the worse the fouling.
But the fouling does come off easily and quickly.

We cleaned a Hallberg Rassey 43 berthed in the Berkeley Marina earlier this summer. Coppercoat bottom was several years old. The hull was so foul and difficult to clean that I had to charge the owner almost double my usual rate. This poor anti fouling performance is typical for copper-loaded epoxies, in my experience. While YMMV in a different locale, here in the Bay Area I warn my customers to stay very far away from this kind of anti fouling product.

[wingNwing]

Launched a month ago after having our marina apply CopperCoat. Mfg rep was very helpful and responsive. Will get back to you all in a year or two to let you know how it goes.

[Capn Morgan]

Originally Posted by Capitain Mike

If you read the online instruction it tells you not to paint the through hulls or zinc anodes.

If you read the instructions it also tells you that it can be appied over the GRP without a epoxy barrier because copper coat is epoxy barrir itself.


Biomimicry Institute - Biomimicking Sharks

Hi Capitain Mike

I talked to them at the time about their claim of it to be a barrier. They said it was not intended to be an osmosis barrier, but that it had similar properties. As I was removing all the old paints and barrier at the time, I used West System and applied Coppercoat on top. They gave me instructions on how to do it and it worked a treat. As I said before, at least where I am it works as they explained it would. I don't mind the light cleaning I have to do from time to time if it saves me thousands yearly. By now it has started saving me money.

[edboat]

I am the US distributor for Coppercoat and we recommend using an epoxy barrier coat on metal thru hulls with the Coppercoat over that just as extra protection . On hulls built with epoxy or vinyl-ester resin you generally don't need a barrier coat. We do recommend if you have a polyester resin built boat and the boat has a history of blisters use epoxy barrier coat. While Coppercoat is an epoxy and it does add additional protection but it only goes on at about 10-12 mils.

[wingNwing]

Originally Posted by wingNwing

Launched a month ago after having our marina apply CopperCoat. Mfg rep was very helpful and responsive. Will get back to you all in a year or two to let you know how it goes.

So far, its been 18 months and it has performed on our boat exactly as advertised. No issues, there is some aquatic growth (less than before with conventional bottom paint) but it comes off easily.

[sailorboy1]

Originally Posted by wingNwing

So far, its been 18 months and it has performed on our boat exactly as advertised. No issues, there is some aquatic growth (less than before with conventional bottom paint) but it comes off easily.

what type of growth?

[MarkSF]

I've got a question : what happens when the region you are in bans the use of copper-based antifouling paint? How do you get this stuff off the hull, which you are going to need to do before applying non-copper-based paint?

For my 31ft boat, a strip to gelcoat followed by re-paint will run you $5000, and that's with normal paint that responds to chemical stripper. To get epoxy off, I don't even know how you'd start.

The word nightmare springs to mind.

[fstbttms]

Originally Posted by sailorboy1

what type of growth?

More importantly; where is the boat located?

[fstbttms]

Originally Posted by MarkSF

I've got a question : what happens when the region you are in bans the use of copper-based antifouling paint? How do you get this stuff off the hull, which you are going to need to do before applying non-copper-based paint?

1.- Coppercoat is not "paint" and its use might not be banned under any presumed future regulation in your area.

2.- Because of the way copper-loaded epoxies (such as Coppercoat) work, the manufacturer claims "much" lower copper emissions as compared to traditional copper-based anti fouling paints.

[Sailorman Ed]

Captain Mike and Morgan - seems you two have the longest experience. Are you both still happy with the results. As hauling sites to handle 22ft wide are few and expensive, I am seriously considering for this spring.

edboat - spray up side the through-hulls? how about saildrives?

thanks,
Ed

[Capn Morgan]

Originally Posted by Sailorman Ed

Captain Mike and Morgan - seems you two have the longest experience. Are you both still happy with the results. As hauling sites to handle 22ft wide are few and expensive, I am seriously considering for this spring.

edboat - spray up side the through-hulls? how about saildrives?

thanks,
Ed

Hi Ed

Four years on and working fine. Had to do some small repairs on the hull to plug un-used through hulls and when I finished I covered with Coppercoat. It works for me.

[Wotname]

Originally Posted by MarkSF

I've got a question : what happens when the region you are in bans the use of copper-based antifouling paint? How do you get this stuff off the hull, which you are going to need to do before applying non-copper-based paint?

For my 31ft boat, a strip to gelcoat followed by re-paint will run you $5000, and that's with normal paint that responds to chemical stripper. To get epoxy off, I don't even know how you'd start.

The word nightmare springs to mind.

Pretty easy actually.

Pressure wash, light sand, apply a high build epoxy primer (barrier coat - Interprotect etc) and then coat with antifoul of choice.