Happiness is a Warm Spool Gun

[sailing_jack]

the saugeen witch design is one of the prettiest hulls I have ever seen. I have been on two of them, red witch and glamour witch. Why is yours not named in this tradition?

[Panope]

Originally Posted by sailing_jack

the saugeen witch design is one of the prettiest hulls I have ever seen. I have been on two of them, red witch and glamour witch. Why is yours not named in this tradition?

My father was/is a marine biologist. His specialty was/is the study and management of the State of Washington's Geoduck resource. The scientific name for the Geoduck species is "Panopea generosa". The name also refers to a sea goddess. My father thought it was a good name. So do I.

Picture is me sailing Redwitch (sister ship of Panope) in the early 1980's. I have known the original builder (CF member MichaelC) since I was 4 or 5 years old.

Steve

[sy_gilana]

Awesome work man!
Now THATS what I am talking about!
DO you have holding tanks?

[Richard_W]

Read every word and studies every picture here and in the album.

You are nuts ... ... and my hat's off to you, Sir.

[Panope]

Originally Posted by sy_gilana

Awesome work man!
Now THATS what I am talking about!
DO you have holding tanks?

Thanks.

I do not have holding tanks. Just use a Porta Potti.

In fact, the list of systems that are not installed is much longer than systems that are installed.

Steve

[Panope]

Companion Way.

Sliding hatch and doors fabricated from 3/16" aluminum.

Pic #1 Finished Doors and Hatch. No plans to paint. Will paint Pilot house Walls.

Pic #2 Door glass bedding. Glass is 1/4 inch laminated.

Pic #3,4,5 Door latch mechanism

Pic #6 Finished door interior. 1/2 inch plywood - painted white (of coarse).

Steve

[Panope]

Pilot house windows, bezels.

Windows (15) bedded (from outside) with 5200. Beveled, Welded aluminum bezels were then bedded (more 5200) over perimeter of windows. Glass is 1/4 inch tempered.

Pic #1 Bedded Glass. Black 5200.

Pic #2 Bezel pieces fitted and held in place with tape.

Pic #3 Bezel pieces tack welded in place.

Pic #4 Finish welding/grinding of bezel accomplished on workbench.

Pic #5 Bezels sandblasted and primed prior to final bedding.

Pic #6,7 One window (center) opens/operates through an over-center mechanism.

Steve

[Panope]

Chain Plates.

Chain plates are fabricated from 3/8" X 6" 6061 T6. In the vicinity of hole, A doubler of same material is fitted to prevent elongation of hole and maintain strength as plate is tapered near top. A 1 inch galvanized Jaw/Jaw turnbuckle (industrial) is used to connect shrouds (one only per side) of 1/2 galvanized wire.

Steve

[Sailormantx]

Nicely done!! I have been contemplating a pilothouse project on my boat, will be watching this thread to see how you are doing it.

[Steelaway35]

Beautiful pilot house! You've done a great job. I enjoy perusing the pics...I'm getting ready to sandblast and paint my boat next month. I look forward to joining the fleet out there soon!

[Panope]

Spars and Tabernacle.

Panope's old mainmast from her schooner rig was lengthened with an tapered octagonal top of 1/4 plate. A tabernacle was fabricated from a section of her old foremast and stepped in the original rigs foremast position.

Pic #1 4 foot long tapered octogon mast top with cap and lightning/bird spike. Tack welded.

Pic #2 8 foot long tapered octogon boom extention. Tack welded.

Pic #3 Splice before welding.

Pic #4 Tabernacle. Basically scarf joint with a 6 to 1 taper.

Pic #5 Rigged for lowering/raising with temporary post that is bolted to mast.

Pic #6 Tabernacle hinge point. Boom goose neck in upper-right.

Steve

[Seaworthy Lass]

Fantastic work!
As an aluminium boat owner the photos are particularly interesting for me.

How much will you need to raise the boom?

[Panope]

Originally Posted by Seaworthy Lass

Fantastic work!
As an aluminium boat owner the photos are particularly interesting for me.

How much will you need to raise the boom?

Thanks, Seaworthy.

The boom attach point at the mast is about 6 inches higher than before. However, since the boom is now much longer, the aft end is about a foot and a half higher than before. A requirement of mine was to make sure the boom clears ones head when standing upright on the aft deck. And it does.

Steve

[Andrew Troup]

Kudos in spades, diamonds, clubs and hearts!

I've a particularly keen reason to be interested, but I won't labour that here, just to say it's truly inspirational, the evident quality and beauty of your work.

I'm planning a tabernacle with high hinge point, too... and anodes with no hull penetration (I wasn't planning on having them stand so far off the hull, though .. is that to get a longer tapped hole?)

And I've just been looking at some photos of a legendary metal (steel) schooner, the Damien II, which blazed the trail for expedition yachts to the Antarctic Peninsula.

When I first met them, they'd just extended the foremast to make it the same height as the main, at the same time adding six feet to the length, and a bowsprit, and most of their trips south were still in the future....

I've just said goodbye to one of the family who was two years old back then.

Now he has his own (metal) cutter, which was a ketch when he purchased it.

He showed me photos of the Damien II in her latest incarnation: she is now also a single master.

The mast is no longer than the previous two were, and there's no perceptible reduction in speed.....

Please keep posting as long as you have photos, and the time. Thanks for taking the trouble !

PS: Have you given any thought to adding a non-touching lug under the steering wire, near the quadrant, but fixed in the frame of reference of the boat, to prevent the wire sagging, if for any reason it became slack enough to miss the rendezvous with the score around the quadrant?

I was once on a superbly engineered boat where this was an uncharacteristic omission. A bearing collapsed unexpectedly in a sheave elsewhere in the system, which would not have been a biggie, except that the wire derailed as a result.

I can think of a few other failure modes where a wire catcher could also be handy... eg sometimes a massive overload can cause the core of flexible wire to collapse and the 'helix angle' to reduce, which presents as a stretched cable (the sort of overload you might get if the rudder were to touch bottom when hard over, dragging ... yes I know gentlemen never drag, but you can never be sure of anything ... )

Anyway, just a thought, and you may well have it covered already ... or the system may be so overstrength (or the turning sheaves close enough) that it's not a realistic possibility

[Panope]

Originally Posted by Andrew Troup

I'm planning a tabernacle with high hinge point, too... and anodes with no hull penetration (I wasn't planning on having them stand so far off the hull, though .. is that to get a longer tapped hole?).................

PS: Have you given any thought to adding a non-touching lug under the steering wire, near the quadrant, but fixed in the frame of reference of the boat, to prevent the wire sagging, if for any reason it became slack enough to miss the rendezvous with the score around the quadrant?

I was once on a superbly engineered boat where this was an uncharacteristic omission. A bearing collapsed unexpectedly in a sheave elsewhere in the system, which would not have been a biggie, except that the wire derailed as a result.

I can think of a few other failure modes where a wire catcher could also be handy... eg sometimes a massive overload can cause the core of flexible wire to collapse and the 'helix angle' to reduce, which presents as a stretched cable (the sort of overload you might get if the rudder were to touch bottom when hard over, dragging ... yes I know gentlemen never drag, but you can never be sure of anything ... )

Anyway, just a thought, and you may well have it covered already ... or the system may be so overstrength (or the turning sheaves close enough) that it's not a realistic possibility

Thanks, Andrew (and everyone else) for the kind words.

Re: Tabernacle. My set up works very well and looks good (round like the rest of the mast) when stepped. However, I should note that I do not use steadying "shrouds" when raising and lowering. I limit raising and lowering to times when "on the hard" only. I believe that small boat motions (rocking) will produce fantastic loads at the hinge point. There are no bridges in my cruising area so really no need for me to set up for "on the water stepping".

Re: Anode Standoffs. Standoffs are tall to ensure no stripped threads (aluminum is soft) when using lots of torque (good electrical connection) on mounting bolts. Also, I feel that it is important to not drill holes all the way through standoffs to ensure that water does not get between standoff and hull. Yes, we have seen folks drill and tap all the way through the hull. The horror!

Re: Derailed steering quadrant wire. Here is a more recent photo taken after installing (this morning) an anti derail bolt. It is not quite as safe as what you describe above. However, in the unlikely event of a derailment (strong system, very tight tension, plain bearings in sheaves) the wire will reset itself after cycling rudder to its stops.

Thanks again, the advice and anecdotes are much appreciated.

Steve