Griptex non skid, but in Gelcoat - Not Paint

[clockwork orange]

How coarse the non skid turns out depends a lot on the method of application, the painter at work always applies the griptex by spraying and it seems that the height you spray from makes a big difference. The Griptex on the Olson is a lot coarser than either mine or my sons fine and medium Softsand. Much too coarse for me.

[s/v Jedi]

We had some discussions about Griptex with professionals here on the forum before. The key points I remember is that they like to mix it in paint, then dab it with a brush instead of rolling, or brushing. They repair areas like that and one said that with a big brush, he would do a while deck like that instead of rolling or even spraying.

[Rucksta]

Gel coat / flow coat is (thick) paint.

Using a mixed non skid powder in the finish coat creates challenges achieving a consistent finish texture , gloss (or lack of) and even paint distribution.

LP paints either single or two pack allow the particles to sink either in the pot or the applied paint film.

Epoxy paints better suspend particles both in the pot and on the applied film.

A two stage process separating the application of grit and the finish coat avoids some of the problems.


Mix grit with an epoxy high build.
Non blushing formulation recommended.
Tint the epoxy to approximate the desired finish colour.
Use of a non yellowing UV hardener is optional as the finish will be overcoated.

Roll on the epoxy mix with a large diameter roller.
Small diameter rollers tend to push any accumulated excess particles causing skidding & clumping.


Inspect coating while wet and locally apply additional grit if required.
Salt shaker is useful.

Localised touch up, sanding & reapplication is possible on the cured epoxy.
Wipe cured epoxy with vinegar to remove any blush.

Apply single top coat.
2 pack LP is good.

Mat or satin finish top coat will produce a more even result than gloss.
Addition of dulling agents may be required.

Fine texture produces better grip than coarse.

[Midday Gun]

Originally Posted by Rucksta

Gel coat / flow coat is (thick) paint.

Using a mixed non skid powder in the finish coat creates challenges achieving a consistent finish texture , gloss (or lack of) and even paint distribution.

LP paints either single or two pack allow the particles to sink either in the pot or the applied paint film.

Epoxy paints better suspend particles both in the pot and on the applied film.

A two stage process separating the application of grit and the finish coat avoids some of the problems.


Mix grit with an epoxy high build.
Non blushing formulation recommended.
Tint the epoxy to approximate the desired finish colour.
Use of a non yellowing UV hardener is optional as the finish will be overcoated.

Roll on the epoxy mix with a large diameter roller.
Small diameter rollers tend to push any accumulated excess particles causing skidding & clumping.


Inspect coating while wet and locally apply additional grit if required.
Salt shaker is useful.

Localised touch up, sanding & reapplication is possible on the cured epoxy.
Wipe cured epoxy with vinegar to remove any blush.

Apply single top coat.
2 pack LP is good.

Mat or satin finish top coat will produce a more even result than gloss.
Addition of dulling agents may be required.

Fine texture produces better grip than coarse.

Its an interesting idea putting it into an epoxy coat first & then painting over, I might be tempted to do a test panel.
In a way you're kind of mimicing the factory approach using griptex & epoxy to create a non skid substrate rather than gelcoat & then paint over it for the longevity / UV protection & final colour.

Could you link to what you would consider a suitable high build for this?
Even if not available locally I can look through the TDS and find a suitable product.

Thanks

[Midday Gun]

Photos as requested.
This is 1 coat of flowcoat, Griptex Fine & Course using the broadcast method, swept it up once the gelcoat had gone off & then finally one more coat of gelcoat / flowcoat with wax added.

I think it could do with a second sealer coat of gel as this one feels like it would hold the dirt quite well.
Also a lot of the imperfections are because the surface I applied it too wasn't particularly great, I just glassed up a piece of plywood with some CSM combo matt, and then a sealer coat of gel.
In hindsight I should have got it nice & flat to get the real effect.

[s/v Jedi]

It looks much better than I thought it would and a million bucks better than Kiwigrip

[Midday Gun]

Originally Posted by s/v Jedi

It looks much better than I thought it would and a million bucks better than Kiwigrip

Thanks, I reckon that if I thinned the first layer a little bit (or used a thinner spray gelcoat) and then the second layer also thinned to help it really get in there.
And then one final full thickness layer with surface wax added, that might be a good shout.

I may have a go at sanding a really flat panel so its like a deck would be seeing if I can get good results.


I also think that you can mix maybe half the normal amount of griptex into the gel & roll it onto an old non skid surface as long as the pattern was in good condition.

[s/v Jedi]

Originally Posted by Midday Gun

Thanks, I reckon that if I thinned the first layer a little bit (or used a thinner spray gelcoat) and then the second layer also thinned to help it really get in there.
And then one final full thickness layer with surface wax added, that might be a good shout.

I may have a go at sanding a really flat panel so its like a deck would be seeing if I can get good results.


I also think that you can mix maybe half the normal amount of griptex into the gel & roll it onto an old non skid surface as long as the pattern was in good condition.

Try the dabbing with brush as well: the guys doing that deliver perfect results and swear by it.

[Rucksta]

Originally Posted by Midday Gun

Could you link to what you would consider a suitable high build for this?
Even if not available locally I can look through the TDS and find a suitable product.

Thanks

Try Bote Cote
https://boatcraft.com.au/

They have a water based, non allergenic, blush free 1:1 mix epoxy high build.
Tech sheet indicates interior use.
I wouldn't use it below the waterline (exterior) but have good results as a coated exterior product.

They also have a viscosity modifier, TPRDA, which cures as part of the epoxy mix.
100% solids rather than evaporate or form unreacted by products like volatile aromatic thinners do.

It reduces the sheer strength but improves adhesion, penetration and flexibility.
Designed to work with their laminating resin (oil based) high viscosity, non blushing, low allergy, 2:1 mix .
UV stable non yellowing hardener available.
Makes a great base to create your own whatever.
Check out their non silica glue powder and fairing compounds.

Also some very good timber finishes that replace varnish.

For better world wide availability.
https://www.jotun.com/

Jotun Penguard HB (high build) a 4:1 mix that dries blush free if mixed accurately.
It is tolerant of less than perfect surface preparation, has a good pot life with short dry and recoat times.
The thinners are aggressive resulting in epoxy rated roller sheaths shedding after 5-6 square meters.

I have no affiliation with either of these companies just a happy customer who has settled on a preferred product range.

[Exile]

Originally Posted by Midday Gun

Photos as requested.
This is 1 coat of flowcoat, Griptex Fine & Course using the broadcast method, swept it up once the gelcoat had gone off & then finally one more coat of gelcoat / flowcoat with wax added.

I think it could do with a second sealer coat of gel as this one feels like it would hold the dirt quite well.
Also a lot of the imperfections are because the surface I applied it too wasn't particularly great, I just glassed up a piece of plywood with some CSM combo matt, and then a sealer coat of gel.
In hindsight I should have got it nice & flat to get the real effect.

This does look quite good (to my amateur eye), and I'm not sure I can tell the difference with examples I've seen when two-part paint has been used. Thanks for posting the photos.

[Jayrob1900]

I have a Sunseeker that came with deck paint on the non skid which was nasty. When removed it revealed a red staining that can’t be removed. I played around with a few rollers using gel coat and found this on eBay which gives pretty much the exact finish of my original deck. I’ve attached a photo of my anchor chain hatch which had two coats and rolled with the below roller. I’m doing the main deck soon with the same technique.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Tuff-Cab-Speaker-Paint-Textured-Roller-7-/132434994982?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46 890.l49286&mkrid=710-127635-2958-0

[scherzoja]

Originally Posted by Scubaseas

Evertex is available in three sizes from US Composites under Fillers
No affiliation other than a long time very happy customer. The Evertex seems to last a long time for me. If you want as pictured you need the coarse grit but if you fall on it you may scrape off some skin!

Scubaseas,
Have you used Evertex medium grit? If so, is it effective and did you use paint or gelcoat to adhere the grit to the deck?

Thanks

[Scubaseas]

Originally Posted by scherzoja

Scubaseas,
Have you used Evertex medium grit? If so, is it effective and did you use paint or gelcoat to adhere the grit to the deck?

Thanks

I have with gelcoat and paint. Equally effective. Think like 120-150 grit sand paper and the coarse is more like 60 grit. It seems to last longer than the coarse grit nonskid. I use this stuff on dive boats in the Caribbean and they see hard use.