Glacier Bay BARRIER Ultra-dB™ Acoustic Insulation

[bobfnbw]

Redoing the engine space prior to the newly rebuilt Perkins taking her rightful place on the throne again...

The old fiberglass insulation covered with a Formica like product is trashed by salt water.
Need a good sound insulator material. I looked at various products and keep coming back to the glacier bay product.
Anyone have experience with this product?
If so would u buy it again?
Any tips on installing it.
Also if you have re insulated your engine space what did you use and how happy are you with it?
thanks,
Bob

[beetle]

Originally Posted by bobfnbw

Redoing the engine space prior to the newly rebuilt Perkins taking her rightful place on the throne again...

The old fiberglass insulation covered with a Formica like product is trashed by salt water.
Need a good sound insulator material. I looked at various products and keep coming back to the glacier bay product.
Anyone have experience with this product?
If so would u buy it again?
Any tips on installing it.
Also if you have re insulated your engine space what did you use and how happy are you with it?
thanks,
Bob

I'm about to give it a whirl in the engine box following a repower from a Perkins 4-108 to a Yanmar 4JH. I visited the Glacier Bay facility this morning, have a sample of the material, and found that the sheets are made to order (2 day lead time) and made to size - e.g., you're not limited to a 4.5' x 6' sheet - they will make longer if needed.

A friend put a piece in the front of their engine box, replacing the original foam/vinyl/foam/mylar material, and she reported the sound reduction was 50% on top of what they had before - way quieter. So I'm sold.

Did you try any in your engine box?

- rob

[CAELESTIS]

You may also look at Soundown of Ft Lauderdale.

During my re-power, I lined the complete engine compartment with Fat-Mat prior to the sound insulation. Fat Mat or Dynomat severely reduce resonance, and is used by many stereo freaks. For further sound reduction, use a gas/water separation muffler (drops another 20db) from Soundown.

[beetle]

Originally Posted by CAELESTIS

You may also look at Soundown of Ft Lauderdale.

During my re-power, I lined the complete engine compartment with Fat-Mat prior to the sound insulation. Fat Mat or Dynomat severely reduce resonance, and is used by many stereo freaks. For further sound reduction, use a gas/water separation muffler (drops another 20db) from Soundown.

Thanks for the ideas.

What 's coming out of the box is 10 year old 1.25" EAR foam/vinyl/foam/mylar soundabsorbing barrier.

I'm familiar with Soundown's acoustic insulation, Glacier's Ultra-DB 1.5" material is half the weight of Soundown's 2" two pound/square foot material and achieves slightly better sound reduction. I prefer to minimize weight where possible, and Glacier's material should do that. The Fatmat is an idea, but I do not wish to add more weight.

Unfortunately I do not have room to install an air/water separater on the exhaust side; I do have two smaller water lift mufflers located within the engine box volume, and they will have to do for quieting noise in the exhaust hose.

Somehow putting a 50hp tractor motor in a plywood box inside the cabin, and then standing next to it to wonder why it's noisy - seems like a lesson in futility! I do expect that replacing the 1.25" x 1lb/sq ft sound insulation with the 1.5" Ultra-db will be a nice improvement.

- rob

[gettinthere]

I have a vernalift water lift muffler. It was in the generator space. I removed the generator and the sound insulation from that space. Converted to storage. The engine muffler is not in the engine space but on the other side of a bulkhead. Am I going to need to insulate the water lift muffler? It is inside a cabinet. I've done this over the winter so I haven't had a chance to hear it. Getting stuff done before spring launch.