Galley countertops

[mitiempo]

Originally Posted by coopec43

The problem with Formica is that if it gets wet (say) at a join it will lift in time. It is best to have it held down mechanically with a fiddle or sink.

The solution to that is to attach the Formica with epoxy. Does double duty - never lifts and seals the ply underneath. Only downside is you have to weight it down until the epoxy cures but not a real problem.

[CassidyNZ]

I did all the counter tops with Formica sheet glued to the original tops. I made a fundamental error in judgement by using aerosol contact adhesive to glue the Formica down.

Just weeks later it all started to come loose and now all the tops will have to be removed and redone. Problem of course is the Formica is that thin that it will be impossible to get it off without destroying it so I guess I’m starting from scratch.

My question: Because I’m laying the Formica inside fiddles on all the counters, it is really hard to get them into the exact position before the contact adhesive grabs it and even one millimeter of mis-alignment causes quite a serious cosmetic problem. So . . .

I’m thinking of using a West System epoxy to lay the Formica on and loading it up with bags of fine sand to ensure even pressure while the epoxy sets. This will enable adequate movement between the overlay and the countertop to get a perfect fit while the epoxy is still wet.

Understand a couple of things - I’m never doing this job again so the permanence of epoxy works well with that ethos . And I have no intention of replacing the complete counter tops, far too big a job.

Any comments?

[Jimmyhenry]

We have corian in both heads. Looks great and easy clean etc.
But in the galley. No way. If you are a marina bound boat then maybe as it looks good. But if you are a cruiser then go for stainless steel. Comparably light. Wear and heat resistant. Very easy maintenance. Unable to burn. Cannot chip or dent. No grout discolouration . Custom built to fit including the super deep bowls. Why choose anything else?

[svbravo]

Originally Posted by hpeer

Can not tell from photo but that looks like a custom sink/top.

Was it expensive?

It was custom, and a first for Boreal. They had it done by an outside shop. I saw that on their new 47.2 they included the SS galley on the company demo boat, and it got good reviews in the judging for EBOTY. It was a pricey upgrade for us, but what we wanted. I think around 3K Euro, inc. the welded in sinks and integral fiddles

I've known other boats who have done SS galley counter refits and had them done by commercial kitchen fab shops, who work with this stuff all the time.

[mitiempo]

Originally Posted by CassidyNZ

I did all the counter tops with Formica sheet glued to the original tops. I made a fundamental error in judgement by using aerosol contact adhesive to glue the Formica down.

Just weeks later it all started to come loose and now all the tops will have to be removed and redone. Problem of course is the Formica is that thin that it will be impossible to get it off without destroying it so I guess I’m starting from scratch.

My question: Because I’m laying the Formica inside fiddles on all the counters, it is really hard to get them into the exact position before the contact adhesive grabs it and even one millimeter of mis-alignment causes quite a serious cosmetic problem. So . . .

I’m thinking of using a West System epoxy to lay the Formica on and loading it up with bags of fine sand to ensure even pressure while the epoxy sets. This will enable adequate movement between the overlay and the countertop to get a perfect fit while the epoxy is still wet.

Understand a couple of things - I’m never doing this job again so the permanence of epoxy works well with that ethos . And I have no intention of replacing the complete counter tops, far too big a job.

Any comments?

Epoxy will work well. Remove all the contact cement down to bare wood first. Ideally you would epoxy the Formica on before the fiddles were in place, trim, and than add the fiddles.

I have used epoxy for Formica multiple times in the past and it works very well.

[sailingabe41ds]

Originally Posted by svbravo

We've been very happy with stainless steel galley tops....easy to keep clean, especially with integral sinks, and you can put hot things down on them without worry. And, they go well with brushed stainless steel appliances.

[IMG][/IMG]

That looks very nice.

Abe

[noelex 77]

Nice galley.

This integrated stainless steel lip is very similar to ours. It has been a great solution. The solid welded lip contains any spills even when on an angle of heel. It has no silicone sealant to deteriorate or go mouldy and the liquid cannot be absorbed and discolour the surrounding timber work.

[OS2Dude]

I like the look of quartz countertops. I'd avoid tile like the plague. Besides the issue with cleaning grout, I'd be afraid the inevitable torque would pop them off. To my understanding Butcher Block is hard to keep clean and germ free. We redid ours ourselves with a new laminate. Removed the fiddles and sinks, prepped the old surface, sprayed on contact adhesive and positioned the new laminate. After being sure it was dry, used a hand router to do the cutouts for the sinks and cooler and to trim the edges flush. Replaced the fiddles, put in the sinks and Voila!

[CarinaPDX]

New countertops are pretty far down on my list but rising quickly: my Formica is stained and not looking so good. I have been looking at acrylics like Corian, which are available in 3mm and 6mm thicknesses. My existing installation is on top of 1/2"-5/8" plywood, with no large unsupported area, so I think the 3mm would do the job as well as requiring less woodworking as I think the small additional thickness can be accommodated without new trim. I made all countertops from a single 5' x 8' sheet, and I see that Avonite is available in that size (although only in white).

My question is this: what is the downside? If I set a hot pan down on it would it damage it? Anything else I should know? Thanks for any comments.

Greg

[Cheechako]

Originally Posted by CarinaPDX

New countertops are pretty far down on my list but rising quickly: my Formica is stained and not looking so good. I have been looking at acrylics like Corian, which are available in 3mm and 6mm thicknesses. My existing installation is on top of 1/2"-5/8" plywood, with no large unsupported area, so I think the 3mm would do the job as well as requiring less woodworking as I think the small additional thickness can be accommodated without new trim. I made all countertops from a single 5' x 8' sheet, and I see that Avonite is available in that size (although only in white).

My question is this: what is the downside? If I set a hot pan down on it would it damage it? Anything else I should know? Thanks for any comments.

Greg

Boy ~ 1/8" seems awfully thin.... My gut says no way.... but...

[boatpoker]

Originally Posted by CarinaPDX

My question is this: what is the downside? If I set a hot pan down on it would it damage it?
Greg

It will melt !

[stormalong]

Originally Posted by boatpoker

It will melt !

No, it will not melt. It may scorch or discolor but it won't melt until it reaches 380 degrees Fahrenheit:

Alumina-trihydrate is the main component of Corian. To melt the acrylic you need to reach 380 to 400 degrees F. Alumina -trihydrate changes chemical form and outgasses water vapor at 360 degrees F. The effect (besides smelling awful) is the same as sweating.

Scorch marks can be wet sanded out. Dupont says up to 212 F (boiling point of water) will not harm it.

[boatpoker]

Originally Posted by stormalong

No, it will not melt. It may scorch or discolor but it won't melt until it reaches 380 degrees Fahrenheit:

Alumina-trihydrate is the main component of Corian. To melt the acrylic you need to reach 380 to 400 degrees F. Alumina -trihydrate changes chemical form and outgasses water vapor at 360 degrees F. The effect (besides smelling awful) is the same as sweating.

Scorch marks can be wet sanded out. Dupont says up to 212 F (boiling point of water) will not harm it.

Would you put a hot cast iron frying right from the stove on it ?
Those sorched blisters ... i generously referred to as melting.

[Island Time O25]

We have the original 40+ year old formica top in reasonable condition for its age. Dealt with some minor stains by using #1000 sandpaper. And keep it from getting worse with liberal use of cutting boards. The biggest negative is its dated look. Have thought long and hard about replacing it with more modern top but after considering all the factors decided to stay with the original for now.

Unless required by some major repairs to another item don't wish to open that can of worms. As we all know that there is no such thing as replacing "just one item" on a 40 year old boat. One thing leads to another as in "while I'm at it..." approach and before you know it you're sucked in into a major refit after starting something as innocuous as "replacing just a countertop".

Having said that if I am pressed to install new countertop I would go with some auctioned off restaurant ss top and would have a local machine shop custom cut it to my specs. Wouldn't dream of sinking big $ into a 40+ old boat for what amounts to non essential cosmetics.

[Davo1404]

Originally Posted by Copacabana

When I get around to replacing my Formica counter tops, I think I'm going to go with ceramic tile. They have floor tiles today that are huge (1m x 1m) and come in a variety of colours and textures. It would be easy to cut them to size for counters. It's a durable, inexpensive, fairly light option that is also easy to clean.

Yes replaced our formica with the floor tiles in 2003. Still looking really good today.