Flushing the engine the wrong way

[Vladis]

Hello,

I made a mistake during the winterization of my sailing boat and I am posting this since I do not want it to happen to others.

In the past years I used to disconnect the water pipe just after the entrance valve and connect the fresh supply to that pipe and switch on the engine for 5 minutes or so. It was very difficult to get a good connection but I was able to do it.

2 days ago I repeated the procedure but as soon as it started there was water all over the engine and little pieces of white plastic flying around. As you probably discovered it was the lid of the water strainer filter that could not support the water pressure.

After talking to the local mechanical man, I learned that I should unscrew this lid, close the entrance valve and supply the fresh water directly into the filter body. Very simple and no problems in connection 2pipes.

Sorry if you already knew this and spend time in reading. Regards, Vladis

[Cheechako]

Yep, I always just put a hose in the open strainer body and let the overflow go into the bilge as the pump takes car of that. If you adjust the hose flow you can get it so just a little overflows. Of course it's easier with a proper bronze body big strainer too.

[Mike OReilly]

Vladis, I infer that the water hose was pressurized from city source? Yeah, bad idea. To winterize I disconnect the raw water intake hose just after my strainer, and then attach a hose that feeds into a bucket. The impeller pump then pulls the coolant in as per normal operation. No mess, no fuss.

I could also do as you Cheechako, but for my setup it's actually easier for me to pull the hose off after the strainer.

[sailorboy1]

I never connected the city water hose to the engine hose. I always put the engine hose into a bucket and ran the city into the bucket and let it suck it out.

[Vladis]

Hello,

I learned one more thing - use a bucket and run the water pump from it! I will do that in 2018! Thanks!

Vladis

[SecondBase]

Originally Posted by Cheechako

Yep, I always just put a hose in the open strainer body and let the overflow go into the bilge as the pump takes car of that. If you adjust the hose flow you can get it so just a little overflows. Of course it's easier with a proper bronze body big strainer too.

I like the overflow approach. Will remember that if I do another winter at some point.

[Captsteve53]

If going to the trouble of flushing i trust you are making the most of it and flush with SALT AWAY,

Makes a real difference (No im not connected with them!-just that it works really well)Salt-Away Home Page

Cheers Steve

[SecondBase]

Originally Posted by Captsteve53

If going to the trouble of flushing i trust you are making the most of it and flush with SALT AWAY,

Makes a real difference (No im not connected with them!-just that it works really well)Salt-Away Home Page

Cheers Steve

Any idea if this product is based on vinegar or based on acid?

[Sailmonkey]

Originally Posted by SecondBase

Any idea if this product is based on vinegar or based on acid?

That's funny......

Vinegar = Acetic acid.

[SecondBase]

Originally Posted by Sailmonkey

That's funny......

Vinegar = Acetic acid.

I learn a lot here.

[Captsteve53]

The safety data sheet (SDS) is available here:

http://www.saltawayproducts.com/SDS%20Salt-
Away%20(USA)%206%20Pages.pdf

But stated Non Toxic-Bio/ Degradable/Non hazardous with the SDS showing no acids/caustic formulations

Precautions for safe handling No special measures required.
· Information about protection against explosions and fires: No special measures required.
· Conditions for safe storage, including any incompatibilities
· Storage:
· Requirements to be met by storerooms and receptacles: No special requirements.
· Information about storage in one common storage facility: Not required.
· Further information about storage conditions: None.
· Specific end use(s) No further relevant information available.

Cheers Steve

[sailcrazy]

FWIW-the Yanmar mechanic explicitly told me that to pressurize the salt water pump on a Yanmar is to destroy it! Feed it fresh water, and let it pull the water into the pump. As our seawater strainer fills and empties from the top, using the "overflow" method did not work for us. So I cut and installed a "T" and ball valve on the hose from the strainer to the eng-mounted pump. During the season, there is a plug in the valve and it's turned "OFF". But when I want to flush the eng, I remove the plug, screw in a hose adaptor with a short hose on it, plug it into a big funnel, and just keep adding water to the funnel as the engine will accept it. Simple, Works good.

[boeing1]

If only flushing with fresh water what do you do for freeze protection. when I was up north I use to remove the hose from the filter basket and put it into a bucket of RV anti freeze, which is bio degradable. also would do the same with my air conditioner.

[sailcrazy]

IF...I was up north, you're exactly right....once flushed out, switch from fresh water to gallon jugs of premixed antifreeze until you see antifreeze coming out of the tailpipe. But we've made the (deliberate) choice NOT to be up north-don't worry to much about freezing down in Puerto Rico!

[boeing1]

that is one reason I headed south, I still flush my raw water and a/c but do not have to winterize.