Filling All the Screw Holes from the Teak Deck

[BlueChicago]

I am planning on removing the worn Teak deck as my winter project, and was wondering what the best procedure is to filling the 2500 or so screw holes left behind?

If I decide to gelcoat the deck, what would be the best approach to filling the holes?

If I decide to replace the Teak with a new Teak Deck, what would be the best approach to filling the holes?

Thanks

-BC

[shyguy68]

the best suggestion is to use a thickened epoxy.....and as for teak deck, I would suggest a synthetic teak like plasteak/plasdeck.

[boatpoker]

The price of new teak will make that decision for you.

[BlueChicago]

I was under the impression that gelcoat on top of epoxy would not work.

Is that not true?

[BlueChicago]

Originally Posted by boatpoker

The price of new teak will make that decision for you.

I know - crazy expensive. Probably crazy to even consider it.

[boatpoker]

Originally Posted by BlueChicago

I was under the impression that gelcoat on top of epoxy would not work.

Is that not true?

2-part primer on the epoxy and it will work just fine.

[SecondBase]

Adding on to shy guy's post - consider a plastic syringe as your filling device.

[kentobin]

Until you remove the teak from the deck you won't know how much damage the removal will cause.

On my 39 year old good old boat about 40% the gelcoat comes up with the teak still sticking to to the adhesive/sealant that was used. The name of the compound used eludes me at the moment but it's black like tar and still pliable. I have to use a wrecking bar and pound it in between the deck and the teak with a 4 lb sledge hammer. This stuff is tenacious.

I've seen youtube videos where the teak comes up fairly easily and am extremely envious.

Because so much of the gelcoat has come up I have to remove it all and sand and fair the deck.

I was advised by a marine surveyor with 40 years experience to glass the deck as he's never seen the million screw holes left after the teak deck is removed all seal with just epoxy, fairing compound, polyester, etc. put in the hole even if it's been beveled.

On top of that he advises that aside from fairing the deck not to worry about filling the screw holes. He says to use a #1708 E-glass Biaxial (+/-45 degree) Cloth with 3/4 oz mat backing with a laminating epoxy like System 3 Silvertip Epoxy Resin. He swears by using this methodology the screw holes will in no way show or compromise the repair.

Then he recommends to finish using awlgrip.

I'm still in the remove teak stage but his information has never been bad before.

[MarkSF]

Originally Posted by boatpoker

2-part primer on the epoxy and it will work just fine.

Any particular 2 part primer? Presumably not an epoxy one? Can you see how precision might be helpful here?

[Thumbs Up]

Awlgrip 545. It is epoxy.

[Lepke]

If it's a cored boat, after the core is dry, as already said, use a syringe. I use West Systems 404 high density filler added to epoxy. The filler increases the bonding effect of plain epoxy. When you mount the new deck, put epoxy in the predrilled holes. It will lube the screw, seal the core from future leaks and hold many times better than the screw alone. It should go 20 years without leaks. If the builders would do it that way, most boats wouldn't have wet cores.

[Smokeys Kitchen]

You might PM Rich Boren - S/V Third Day on CF - and see what he recommends. He just finished a job like this and might have some pretty good ideas and /or recommendations. I don't know whether he put teak back down or did something else.

[bletso]

I have not had that much trouble removing teak planking. I use a Fein multimaster with the appropriate tips. Remove the screws you can, then the chisel ends and work up. Of course every builder builds differently. I have had to remove two large sections of decking to replace some core. In any case, just takes a little patience. Stbd aft cockpit | Sailing Vessel Vigah

[George DuBose]

I believe in keeping things simple. I would fill all the old holes with thickened epoxy and then cover the whole deck with Flexiteek, Tek-Dek or a similar high quality artificial teak.

I replaced all the 35 year old Treadmaster with Tek-Dek and people swear it looks like real teak, it has excellent slip resistance and doesn't seem to stain with red wine or diesel. I can powerwash it with no problems.

It is much cheaper than real teak to buy and install and small pieces can be installed by one person, the bigger pieces need 2-3 people to position the material after the adhesive has been spread on the deck.

I think artificial teak is great stuff and has really improved the look of my 44 year old baby.

I could send a photo of the deck I have finished. I have the side decks and foredeck to do this winter, after I pull all the stanchions and cleats.

[Terra Nova]

Imitation teak decks look cheap. Better to simply do a neat job of applying non-skid.

Many worn teak decks can be nicely restored, as long as the teak is still well bonded to the sub-deck. Here are some images of a deck I restored on an early '80's Beneteau First 435. Most of the fasteners were showing. And about half of the caulking grooves had disappeared entirely. After removing all deck hardware, these grooves were re-cut using a Skilsaw and then resized using an edge plane, with some router work. All fasteners were removed, the holes re-counterbored, and new fasteners and plugs installed. Additionally a windlass "hump" in the anchor locker hatch was removed and glassed flush, with new teak applied there.