Ferro Anti-Foul

[Jdiamond]

Hay all, I have a problem with my anti-foul on my 39ft Hartley South Seas I pulled her out last year and anti fouled, I was told to give the old anti foul a scuff sanding back barnacales and fairing loose paint and in some places I had to take it right back to concrete. I was then told on the exposed concrete paint a 2 pot primer, but not to touch the anti foul with this so I carefully cut it in keeping only to concrete. Then we anti-fouled. This year I have pulled out again only to find the places I have primed have bubbled up the anti fould is still on there but I have to sand it right back because of the tiny air pockets, does any one know if I need to use a primer because it seams to be a pain, I am using an ALTEX self ablative anti-foul system. Any help would be appreciated.

[Boracay]

I built a Hartley RORC 32' a long time ago.

You don't say exactly what you used as a two pot primer. If the ferro was still damp this may have caused the problems that you describe.

The following are some suggestions that you may care to discuss with Altex or the manufacturer of your "two pot" after you have described what happened.

There are water soluble epoxy paints. Is one of these available or suitable for my boat?

Is there a vinyl primer suitable for use under Altex antifoul? Can it be applied over cured damp cement?

Should vinyl undercoat or antifouling be applied over partially cured (or cheesy) epoxy?

[Jdiamond]

cheers mate, the 2 pot epoxy altex primer I used was 167 pre prime with 167 convertor, I have looked into the vinyl primer but the rep still thinks I will have to use a epoxy primer to seal the ferro first. I am steering towards what the rep called "old school" way of doing it with coal tar epoxy on the ferro, it is ment to not be as fair but do the job. I dont want to do the same as I done last year and get the same results (who would). thanks for your help.

[Boracay]

Sometimes concrete can be too smooth.

I believe there is an acid wash available to "etch" the cement and provide a rougher surface for the paint to grip onto.

Warning : Acids can be poisonous and corrosive. Read the product safety sheet carefully and follow all safety precautions.

While coal tar epoxy can provide a thick smooth covering it may be difficult to get other paints to adhere to it.

[isy43]

Ok if your ferro hull is ideal & ready for antifouling ,,,, what would be the best antifouling to use ? hard , soft ? brands ?
Takeing into account i'd like to antifoul at least as possible.
Not that im lazy , it's just not on the top of the list of my fav things to do.
Isabell in OZ

[ozskip]

Does the liquid in these bubbles feel soapy if so they are caustic due to moisture in the hull before the primer was applied and will need to be treated by a acid wash.Greg

[bottompaint]

Sea Hawk Paints makes a coal tar epoxy, called "Black Barrier Coat" and any of their antifoulants will stick to it. I would use an ablative/self polishing bottom paint. You will need at least two coats of antifoulant over the coal tar because the first coat really soaks into the coal tar epoxy.

[BillAU]

G'day Greg from Gippsland,

Do you still own a Hartley South Seas/Tahitian 38 or do you have any details/information on them?
I'm looking at one come Wed' with a view to buying and would like a few pointers on what to look for, and information on sail sizes if possible. The South Seas 38 I'm looking at was pro built in NZ.
Talking with another experienced FC boat owner about hull paints would also be a good thing.
If you can PM me with your phone number, I'll give you a bell over the weekend.

Cheers,

Bill AU
Corio. Vic'.
Australia

[thinwater]

I am a chemical engineer, and epoxy coating concrete containment is common for us.

The most common cause of bubbles when laying epoxy on concrete is out-gasing of air from the pores when the temperature is rising in the morning. If you are in the sun it is terrible. Painting in the late afternoon helps, but shade is a good alternative. You see, unlike FRP, concrete is quite porous.