Extra through hulls?

[Kalimniosjohn]

So I have been slowly refitting my Endeavour 51 that I purchased almost two years ago. Something that has been bothering me for a long time was the condition of nearly every seacock on the boat...All 15 of them.

I currently have the boat hauled to do new bottom paint and replace every single through hull and seacock and their backing plates. I have been sorting out the mess of hoses and use for each seacock, and can eliminate at least 7 of them. Though I am planning to leave two unused for a future anchor washdown pump at the bow and future water maker pickup.

The remaining 5 I really don’t think I need. So if I glassed over the unneeded holes, I’d have 10 seacocks two being unused for future use.

My question begins here...as many know glassing over a 1-2” hole is a lot more work then simply reinstalling a new seacock and capping it, especially 5 of them. Is it worth the hassle when I’m already on a time crunch? How much more peace of mind will I get with 10 holes in the boat rather then 15? Especially knowing that I am installing the best stuff available?

Picture of some of the old stuff next to one of the new ones.

[Copacabana]

Just my opinion... I think glassing them over is the long-term solution and perhaps cheaper than fitting new seacocks to leave shut. I don't think I'd worry too much about the new seacocks (even the unused ones) for many years, but perhaps a threaded plug in the valve would provide extra peace of mind. I just glassed over another seacock on my boat (down to 4 now, excluding cockpit drains!) on my last haulout and it's not all that hard or time consuming. Why not just glass over the ones you're sure you don't need?

[Toccata]

Why didn't you use Marelon (or similar) valves?
Just asking, not wishing to start an antagonistic nasty thread as seems to happen when different opinions expressed.....

[Cheechako]

Glassing is a lot of work but a great solution. However, could you put in a bronze thru hull fitting, no seacock and just a bronze cap on it? If you dont want to do the glassing...

[Kalimniosjohn]

Originally Posted by Toccata

Why didn't you use Marelon (or similar) valves?
Just asking, not wishing to start an antagonistic nasty thread as seems to happen when different opinions expressed.....

For one reason only, my boat had a mix match of old original (32 year old) bronze seacocks and a few newish marelon ones. The bronze ones, though they wouldn’t close, seemed to take whatever pressure I could manage to apply to them to try to close the valve. The marelon ones handles snapped off. That was all the convincing I needed.

[Kalimniosjohn]

Originally Posted by Cheechako

Glassing is a lot of work but a great solution. However, could you put in a bronze thru hull fitting, no seacock and just a bronze cap on it? If you dont want to do the glassing...

I could, but I already budgeted and payed for the seacocks too. So I figure I could install them and then cap them.

I know glassing is a better solution and I already have the epoxy, 1708 and lighter 8oz cloth. Just cant make up my mind which direction to go.

[Toccata]

As long as it's well done, glass over is less risk.
Less areas for barnacles/coral etc to grow in/on. Holds antifoul better than metal
You can always put a seacock back in again.

And your opinion on the composite valves?

[Toccata]

Re Marelon. Fair enough.
I wonder if the new/current ones are as weak in that area?
I wonder if "Tru Design" are that weak too??

[Don C L]

Originally Posted by Cheechako

Glassing is a lot of work but a great solution. However, could you put in a bronze thru hull fitting, no seacock and just a bronze cap on it? If you dont want to do the glassing...

That's what I was thinking too. In fact preferable IMO. But if you already have the ones you have I'd probably choose glassing over those and see if you can get a refund on those seacocks.

[stormalong]

1) Marelon handles have been redesigned and are stronger now.

2) I would glass over the unused hole but it is not a structural repair and you do not have to taper out the hole 12 to 1 as you would do a structural repair.

Since you have a few to do I recommend the following method.

Grind off a clean surface on the inside if the hull a few inches larger than the hole. Grind a slight taper in the hole, making it larger on the outside than the inside. A 45 degree angle is plenty.

Put a patch on the inside if the hull consisting of one layer of mat and one layer of cloth. Let it cure hard.

From the outside grind or sand the hole to roughen the surface. Build up alternating layers of mat and cloth until the hole is filled, You can do about six layers (three mat and three cloth) at a time. After each set cures roughen up the new surface and repeat.

Once the buildup is higher than the outside surface sand flush and paint with Interprotect 2000 or similar barrier coat.

You're done.

I have done a few of these above and below the water line and never had a problem. Some are now over 20 years old and from the outside you can't tell where they are.