Engine removal in water - Ideas on lifting points

[chowdan]

Hey everyone!

Its time, I've finally secured a location to work on my inboard diesel to hopefully bring it back alive. Its a Perkins M20.

I've decided I will go with using the mast/boom as a make shift crane to lift the engine out of the companion way and onto the dock where I'll have a dolly sitting to drag it up to the truck.

The question i'm trying to figure out right now is where should the lifting points be on the engine? I am going to be disconnecting the shaft from the transmission and hauling the tranny out with the block unless its too big.

I've removed the head, alternator, heat exchanger, and water pump">raw water pump and have drained all fluids(minus tranny fluids). I'll be trying to remove the starter from it as well, however now that the head is off, the one lifting point that I had is no longer.

Does anyone have any recommendations on how I should go about lifting a stripped down engine?

As for the lifting setup, I will be keeping the topping line at the end of the boom tight, while running the halyard to the lifting point on the boom and keeping that tight as well. I'll wrap the boom with some rope and mount a 1ton chain hoist from this point. Once everything is cranked down, Ill lift the engine out, but first will crank up the weight to see how everything is holding. If all is good, we'll jack up as far as possible, and hopefully get above the companion roof top then swing over to dock to set down. If that is not possible, we'll just lift up and pull it into the cockpit and inch our way out on the boom until we can swing it over.

My biggest conundrum is figuring out lifting points that I can use on the engine. I have excess chain that i can cut/use if needed.

[SkiprJohn]

I would think that with what you've stripped off the oil pan would be able to handle a strap around it for lifting. Nylon tow straps are pretty tough. Have you removed the mounting legs? That's another place you can wrap strap around to use for lifting.

[Sailmonkey]

I'd buy two eye nuts and screw them into the head bolt holes


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[pesarsten]

I have used old head bolts to secure a length of chain, usually with some thick washers to form a lifting bridle. Do not use the bolts that you will use for the head as they will likely be bent after the lifting. Use common sense and don't lift if the rig doesn't look secure. There is a tool built for adjusting the balance point when lifting, it might be worth while to pick one up as it will be even more handy when putting the engine back in.

[pesarsten]

Here is a link to the lifting bar

Super price on ATD Tools 7489 at ToolTopia.com

Paul

[chowdan]

Originally Posted by SkiprJohn

I would think that with what you've stripped off the oil pan would be able to handle a strap around it for lifting. Nylon tow straps are pretty tough. Have you removed the mounting legs? That's another place you can wrap strap around to use for lifting.

Great idea! I haven't pulled the mounting legs off, i was planning on just unbolting the engine mounts from the boat and leaving the plates attached to the engine.

As for the strap method, is it recommended to run 2 straps diagonal of each other so you have 4 points that are hooking onto the hoist?

Originally Posted by pesarsten

I have used old head bolts to secure a length of chain, usually with some thick washers to form a lifting bridle. Do not use the bolts that you will use for the head as they will likely be bent after the lifting. Use common sense and don't lift if the rig doesn't look secure. There is a tool built for adjusting the balance point when lifting, it might be worth while to pick one up as it will be even more handy when putting the engine back in.

When you say head bolts, are you talking the actual bolts that are securing the head, from top to bottom? Seems like if thats the case, lifting from this point would be quite nerve wreaking due to the washers potentially bending. I'd assume the the bolts would bend but would be more concerned about the washers bending upward and having the chain slip off? Maybe i am just under estimating the strength of the washers for when they distribute the load?

Originally Posted by pesarsten

Here is a link to the lifting bar
Super price on ATD Tools 7489 at ToolTopia.com
Paul

Much appreciated! I just checked Harbor Frieght and they have one of these for $30 that is 3/4 ton capacity. About $10-$15 more expense than tow straps but seems like this would make it a lot more secure and worry about not being centered would be eased.



On a side note, once this bad boy is out of the boat, we'll float much higher, and we will be able to clean out and repaint our nasty bilge. The previous owner or atleast one who had previously worked on the boat did not care about keeping the bilge oil free and somewhat clean. Depending if we can(and I sure hope) get the engine running, I'm thinking I'll probably build a cradle for a removable oil catch that lives below the engine to prevent future drips/spills to the bilge.

[Cheechako]

considerations:
a) Often the end of the boom will not reach far enough to get the engine on the dock...will yours?
b) if you lift the engine from boom center, how will you slide it to the end of the boom once lifted?

[Hydra]

Keep in mind that the boat will heel when you swing the boom over. This could cause the boom going too far, with the engine dangling under. You need restraining lines to prevent an uncontrolled move.

Alain

[chowdan]

Originally Posted by Cheechako

considerations:
a) Often the end of the boom will not reach far enough to get the engine on the dock...will yours?
b) if you lift the engine from boom center, how will you slide it to the end of the boom once lifted?

The end of the boom is plenty long to reach the dock when swung out over the side.

Regarding B - This is something I have been thinking about quite a bit since I believe that we will have to move the lifting point outward. The conclusion that I've come to is that I will need to hoist the engine vertically, then using brute force to pull it out of the companionway into the cockpit/just outside of the companionway entry. Once we pull it out, we can then lower it down onto some 4x4 that are strung across the cockpit seats. Since I'll have the engine mounts still on, I think I should be able to let the engine just "float" on these while we move the chain hoist and support cables.

Originally Posted by Hydra

Keep in mind that the boat will heel when you swing the boom over. This could cause the boom going too far, with the engine dangling under. You need restraining lines to prevent an uncontrolled move.

I'm not too concerned about heeling movement and uncontrolled swings. There is going to be 3 people so we are going to be able to keep it under control with preventer lines. The biggest concern I have is going to be getting the engine up and out into the cockpit. Once out there, if all else fails, the three of us can lift it out of the boat and onto the dock, though this may be the most ugly way to do it.

I'm also planning on running both spinnaker and the genny halyard to the bow to give some extra support. I may just do one to the bow and one to the opposite side that we are going to unload from just as a safety net.

[Dsanduril]

I've done what you describe a bunch of times. Once you get it up and out of the companionway you pull it aft and set it down in the cockpit as far aft as you can. Slide your chain hoist and halyard rig aft on the boom, pick up the engine and pull it as far aft as you can. Rinse, repeat until the engine is far enough aft on the boom that it will swing clear of the edge of the boat, then push it over toward the dock. You can take your jib or spinnaker halyard over to the dock on the opposite side (presuming there is one) and snug it up, that will help prevent excessive heel when you swing the engine outboard.

Have fun.

[Jim Cate]

Chowdan, don't overthink this job! With all the things removed that you mention, it shouldn't weigh all that much.. 300 lbs?? Not that hard to just man handle if necessary, not likely to bend bolts, washers and your back! Just don't drop it!

Jim

[GordMay]

Originally Posted by chowdan

... I'm thinking I'll probably build a cradle for a removable oil catch that lives below the engine to prevent future drips/spills to the bilge.

Oil-Only Absorbent Pads work well ➥ https://www.bradyid.com/en-us/produc...ads-and-rolls#

[NorthCoastJoe]

Should be no problem, get a short chain that you can slip a head bolt through end links. Screw in a head bolt at each end of the block so that it is balanced. Hook to your lifting device and your good to go. Sometimes I use a bolt through the chain near my lift point to help with the balance (tilt), lock it in place. Just be sure to screw the head bolts in deep, they do not need to be tightened, just deep.

[NorthCoastJoe]

Forgot to mention, I always use new head bolts when ever I remove a diesel head.

[tinkrman69]

Originally Posted by Jim Cate

Chowdan, don't overthink this job! With all the things removed that you mention, it shouldn't weigh all that much.. 300 lbs?? Not that hard to just man handle if necessary, not likely to bend bolts, washers and your back! Just don't drop it!

Jim

I've done this many times with heavier engines, to both docks and waiting skiffs along side. Your lifting technic is sound. as mentioned earlier a bolt and washer through chain, in a head bolt hole, will work fine. standard washers are plenty strong for this job. I would suggest getting new head bolts for reassembly, as the old ones will be more likely to stretch, when re-torquing. in that you can use the old bolts for lifting. if you use a clevis hook on the chain fall you can adjust it on the chain attached to the engine to balance the weight. If the lifting point when the engine is not straight down you can attach a line aft to a brace some where and lift a little and then let it come foreword slowly. save the need for someone to hold it back with brut force.....a little safety. It's not much force, but it's nice to have the extra control.

good luck
Lance