Engine removal in water - Ideas on lifting points

[Tingum]

I would be concerned about the strength of the topping lift and the single halyard. Better to keep most of the load on the halyard not the topping lift so as not to stress the boom.

[Lake-Effect]

When I worked one spring for an older boat mechanic, I got to assist with a few engine pulls and installations. I don't recall anything as heavy as the Perkins, just Yanmars and Volvos mostly.

If there were lifting rings, obviously, we used those. Otherwise, the mechanic used a length of sturdy rope to make a sling; looping carefully under the spots on the engine best suited to bearing the weight. When the line had been passed a few times under each support point, he'd gather it up at the top to make the hoisting point. This could go badly wrong if you don't know what you're doing, but this guy had the experience to get it right.

With benefit of hindsight, I can see that this would be easier to set up with with two to four individually adjustable straps meeting at a ring or bar where the come-along attaches.

We used a braced 4x4 across the companionway as the first point when getting the engine off the bed and onto the cabin floor. We didn't use the boom to get the engine out, we always used a crane, I think because the mechanic didn't want to risk damage to the client's boom. And a crane is much more stable and controllable. And it's faster. Owners are free to do what they want, of course.

Good luck with the work. Go slow, work carefully.

[SkiprJohn]

Originally Posted by pesarsten

I have used old head bolts to secure a length of chain, usually with some thick washers to form a lifting bridle. Do not use the bolts that you will use for the head as they will likely be bent after the lifting. Use common sense and don't lift if the rig doesn't look secure. There is a tool built for adjusting the balance point when lifting, it might be worth while to pick one up as it will be even more handy when putting the engine back in.

I was going to suggest that too but it made me nervous thinking about it. Since it is a tried and true method as others have suggested it might be the best option. I've only lifted an engine in and out twice so I'll defer to those who have done it multiple times.

[topmast]

I'd consider the move in two parts .Get the engine on deck sitting on pads. Don't let it fall over while adjusting position of block and padding on boom for the swing. Control out and down to dock. Hope dock (finger?) is stable Sometimes a small engine can moved hanging from a 4x4 fence post and determined helpers. Oil pans can be sensitive to impacts.

[Briandownsouth]

I recently removed and replaced a Perkins 4.108. ~500lbs via the dock. I recommend rigging the halyard to the lift point so you don't depend on the topping lift to carry the load.

[seabreez]

The question i'm trying to figure out right now is where should the lifting points be on the engine? I am going to be disconnecting the shaft from the transmission and hauling the tranny out with the block unless its too big.

Does anyone have any recommendations on how I should go about lifting a stripped down engine?

My biggest conundrum is figuring out lifting points that I can use on the engine.

Definitely go with chain to tie up and bolt the chain with bolts the same size as your head bolts but shorter. A few washers, yes they will bend a little but that is OK. Make sure the bolts are tight and short so that the tension does not pull the top of the bolts and bend it. Why go this way? you pull from the highest point and the engine will not try to slip sideways or come out of the straps. This is far the safest way. I have done this many times...

[pesarsten]

By using the engine lifting bar you will have two significant advantages, first you can secure the lifting bar close to the top of the engine and keep the load almost vertical on the bolts/chain and low down. Second, even if you have enough hands to tip, tilt, jiggle and shoehorn, being able to adjust the lifting point forward or aft will make the safer and easier. Slow and controlled is the way to go when lifting heavy engines.

[Cheechako]

Originally Posted by pesarsten

By using the engine lifting bar you will have two significant advantages, first you can secure the lifting bar close to the top of the engine and keep the load almost vertical on the bolts/chain and low down. Second, even if you have enough hands to tip, tilt, jiggle and shoehorn, being able to adjust the lifting point forward or aft will make the safer and easier. Slow and controlled is the way to go when lifting heavy engines.

Yeah, one problem with using the boom is the lifting strap or chain on the engine often takes a lot of airspace.... you may not have.

[sailorchic34]

Be sure to have a halyard at the point on the boom where your lifting hoist connects to/ hangs from the boom. That is don't leave the boom unsupported mid span. I know of one fellow that broke his Boom doing that.

As others have said bolts in the head or block if you don't have a lifting point already on the engine.

[Cadence]

Looks like mostly good advise. Had you thought about separating the tranny? Two guys could probably carry the block out. I'm not worried about your engine but your boom, add the weight of the chain fall to the equation.

[Arthur Garfield]

Pretty much covered by all.Head bolts through chain at block corners.Hoist away.have plywood on sole to rest block when up.KNOW what weight your boom/halyard is rated at! Know weight of block.Think it through-step by step!
I DON'T like STRAPS because not secure sufficiently! The block could flop out of them like an eel out of your hands !


All the Best

[Cadence]

Any thoughts about going back in? The head bolts washers and chain sound good coming out. I would assume the head will be on after "bringing it back to life."

Just a question. You might do well being on the hill and having a travel lift with a spreader drop it back in with straps?

[goodoldwoody]

Hi
I've lifted 2 engines out and in using this method.
My last engine 212 kg without the flywheel, alternator and starter Etc.
I used a chain block from the boom, lifting slings around and under the engine.
The topping lift and main halyard was set at the lifting point on the boom.
The boat healed a little but not much when the boom was swung out to the dock.

I also used 2 chain blocks from opposite ends to swing the engine into place.
For that I set a piece of 3x2 timber over the fwd and aft hatches and slung the chain blocks from them. The chain blocks located about 10 ft apart, working against each other, to move the engine. That worked fine too. I did use a couple of old cushions to prevent any damage to the woodwork here & there.

So good luck.

Woody

[Djarraluda]

The other key trick not mentioned is to have some sheets of plywood around.
If anything looks like touching a surface somewhere, place the plywood there to protect the timber/GRP

[chowdan]

Thanks everyone for the help/advice!

I ended up buying a come along winch from home depot and some 2x4's.

We pretty much had the come along winch attached to the 2x4's that were resting on top of the companionway top(where the sliding roof is). We then wrapped some rope around the engine to create a sling and attached to comealong and hoisted it up.

Even at max hieght it wasn't tall enough, so we pretty much just laid some 2x4's across the cockpit seat/combings and 2 of us lifted the engine up onto the 2x4's. Once on there, we had someone sit on the opposite end of the 2x4's, and slid the engine overto the edge of the boat(heel was less than 10degrees then lifted the engine into the dock cart(2 people).

All in all, installing it will be more tricky than the removal. To install I am planning on just using the boom/mast for it. I also will be replacing the standing rigging so by the time the engine is installed, i'll be a lot more confident in the whole system and strength of everything.

Until then, our boat is around 200lbs lighter, and is quite happy. The shaft is still in place so I'll be tying down the shaft so it wont spin when under way. As for the engine, well this coming weekend I'll be able to go take a look, tear down the lower end and evaluate it and see how bad it truely is.

I'm hoping that just the pistons will need replacing and the head will be refinished and valve sleeves and valve seats relapped. Hopefully its not a complete rebuild as I'd like to see that engine run before end of summer/fall.