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19-10-2009, 13:39
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#1
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: eastern N. Carolina
Boat: 10m Catalac, Immanuel
Posts: 30
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Engine Compartment Insulation
I am looking for some input on replacing my engine compartments insulation. I have a cat w/ 2 diesels, so I want to be as cost effective as possible. Presently there is an egg grate style foam there that is fast deteriorating. I am going scraping this weekend so I don't get any of that dust sucking up into the intake. West Marine has a product that seems great, except for the price. Is it possible to use foil backed styrofoam? What are my choices? Is the insulation only for soundproofing? It seems an easy enough project. I just want it to be properly done, while being cost effective too, ( if there is such a union )
I have always recieved great help here, Thanks for your input.
Clif
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19-10-2009, 13:57
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#2
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: West Coast, BC , Canada
Boat: Cascade
Posts: 595
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I used a product like Sound Down Composite Barrier. Worked great made a difference. I found I had to make a larger air intake hole as the motor room was sealed better afterwards and was restricting the airflow at cruising RPM
__________________
Go outside and PLAY!
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19-10-2009, 23:33
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#3
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Largo, Florida
Boat: Bruce Roberts Offshore 38
Posts: 268
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You should NOT use styrofoam. Styrofoam creates toxic gasses when ignited.
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20-10-2009, 08:29
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#5
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Fort Myers FL
Boat: Irwin 40
Posts: 878
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You cannot go wrong with the SoundDown products they are the leaders in the marine market, however you do pay for that. This is one of those jobs that is so labor intensive that you might not want to think original material cost compared to the future replacement and product life. The quash stuff looks interesting but I did not see anything about fire resistance. Whatever you put in make sure it does not burn. Styrofoam would be like throwing gasoline on the fire and the other poster was right it puts off some deadly fumes. I would look for the soundown product from a cheaper source like Defender. West is list price on everything I am sure you can do better than that. Wear a particle mask while removing the old material. As an added note make sure whatever you use is resistant to petroleum fluids and vapors.
Safety first
Product life next
And finally product cost
Good luck
Wayne Canning, AMS
projectboatzen.com
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20-10-2009, 09:15
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#6
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: St. Georges, Bda
Boat: Rhodes Reliant 41ft
Posts: 4,131
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I am about to replace mine as well.
Gord, can you post some dependable links to the harmonics element of this job.
Immanuel, not trying to hi-jack your thread, I know the 2 things are related.
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20-10-2009, 11:04
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#7
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: West Coast, BC , Canada
Boat: Cascade
Posts: 595
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some basic tips
I'm sure there are going to be many scientific papers posted on this but some basic tips are..
You need to have the engine room sealed. Tape the corners, I was told that you could buy the expensive tape from the suppliers or go to a hardware store and buy the same silver foil tape for 1/4 cost.
The lighter foam composite will reduce the higher frequency noise
The dense layers absorb the lower frequency noise.
Do not compress the stuff when installing.
I found it easy to install and cut it to shape with scissors.
I think mine is one inch thick.
I’m happy with the results.
__________________
Go outside and PLAY!
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20-10-2009, 15:22
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#8
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Senior Cruiser
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Thunder Bay, Ontario - 48-29N x 89-20W
Boat: (Cruiser Living On Dirt)
Posts: 51,614
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Solitude
I'm sure there are going to be many scientific papers posted on this but some basic tips are..
The lighter foam composite [sic: Porous Absorbers] will reduce the higher frequency noise
The dense layers absorb [sic: Mass Dampers] the lower frequency noise...
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Diesel engines generally emit higher sound pressures in the lower frequencies.
A good search beginning term is "sound attenuation".
Having spent 3 months researching this subject, relative to a specific installation, I'm totally over-loaded & burnt out on the subject.
__________________
Gord May
"If you didn't have the time or money to do it right in the first place, when will you get the time/$ to fix it?"
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20-10-2009, 17:57
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#9
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: eastern N. Carolina
Boat: 10m Catalac, Immanuel
Posts: 30
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Thank you for the replies.
I should have realized styrofoam won't work, thanks Rustypirate. I have looked at Defender. They don't seem to carry sounddown products. Does any one know where to get that or know around what the pricing may be. Defender also had a spray on product, any input on that?
Thanks again!
Clif
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20-10-2009, 18:33
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#10
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Senior Cruiser
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: 29° 49.16’ N 82° 25.82’ W
Boat: Pearson 422
Posts: 16,307
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__________________
The water is always bluer on the other side of the ocean.
Sometimes it's necessary to state the obvious for the benefit of the oblivious.
Rust is the poor man's Loctite.
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20-10-2009, 18:57
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#11
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Brisbane Australia [until the boats launched]
Boat: 50ft powercat, light,long and low powered
Posts: 4,409
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sailvayu
The quash stuff looks interesting but I did not see anything about fire resistance.
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From the PDF I got the pic from
Quote:
• Excellent low-to mid-frequency sound absorption
• Meets UL 94 HF-1 standard for flame resistance
• Easy to install—self-supporting
• Easy to fabricate
• Withstands exposure to moisture, humidity
QUASH sound management foam is ideal for controlling noise
from engines, generators and other equipment in enclosures. The
foam’s large, closed cells effectively trap and dissipate airborne
sound, yet the polyethylene material is rigid and self-supporting. It
is lightweight, easy to cut and fabricate.
QUASH foam’s physical integrity and sound absorption capabilities
do not deteriorate when the material is exposed to moisture
and high humidity. The foam also withstands exposure to chemicals,
grease and oil. It meets many common industrial smoke and
flame standards, including UL94 HF-1 and FMVSS 302.
Because QUASH foam is a relatively rigid material, many applications
do not require adhesives or fasteners. Cut-to-fit pieces can
simply be pressed into place between metal framing. The material
is compatible with numerous common adhesives, however, and
can be backed by pressure sensitive adhesives. Mechanical fastening
methods include screws with washers, nails and stick pins.
Quote:
QFR 2000 Series
Part Number Description
QFR-2301 30mm-thick, 39.4-inch by 110-inch sheets
• available in black or natural (white)
QFR-2501 50mm-thick, 39.4-inch by 110-inch sheets
• available in black or natural (white)
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Whatever
UL 94 HF-1 standard for flame resistance
That is
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21-10-2009, 04:14
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#12
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Senior Cruiser
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Thunder Bay, Ontario - 48-29N x 89-20W
Boat: (Cruiser Living On Dirt)
Posts: 51,614
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See The Horizontal Burning Foamed Material Tests HF-1 & HF-2
The standards used to establish V-0, V-1 and V-2. TM-0, TM-1, HF-1, HF-2 flammability ratings recognition is UL 94, which are explained here:
➥ UL94 Flame Testing
__________________
Gord May
"If you didn't have the time or money to do it right in the first place, when will you get the time/$ to fix it?"
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21-10-2009, 06:48
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#13
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Brighton, UK
Boat: Privilege 37
Posts: 3,757
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These people have a good reputaton for sound proofing
Noise Insulation Materials
__________________
"Be wary of strong drink. It can make you shoot at tax collectors - and miss."
Robert A Heinlein
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27-10-2009, 17:16
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#14
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Brisbane Australia [until the boats launched]
Boat: 50ft powercat, light,long and low powered
Posts: 4,409
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GordMay
See The Horizontal Burning Foamed Material Tests HF-1 & HF-2
The standards used to establish V-0, V-1 and V-2. TM-0, TM-1, HF-1, HF-2 flammability ratings recognition is UL 94, which are explained here:
➥ UL94 Flame Testing
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Thanks for that Gord
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