Dying Dyneema

[mikereed100]

There was some discussion on another thread a while back about painting or dying Dyneema. I believe it was Jedi who pointed out that Rit makes a dye for synthetics so I decided to give it a go as my trampolines had bleached nearly white which made it hard to see the anchor while pulling in the dark. Also hoping to slow UV damage, although that ship has probably sailed.

I have an 8 gallon s/s kettle and "Bayou Cooker" for brewing beer so I was already set up. I added 2 bottles of Rit DyeMore to 6 gallons of water and cooked my trampolines for 30 minutes each at 200F.

Very happy with the results. It will be interesting to see how the dye holds up with time. In the photo you can see my setup as well as one tramp in the pot and the other on the crossbeam which shows the contrast in color.

[Franziska]

Following with interest. Thanks for posting.

[s/v Jedi]

Originally Posted by mikereed100

There was some discussion on another thread a while back about painting or dying Dyneema. I believe it was Jedi who pointed out that Rit makes a dye for synthetics so I decided to give it a go as my trampolines had bleached nearly white which made it hard to see the anchor while pulling in the dark. Also hoping to slow UV damage, although that ship has probably sailed.

I have an 8 gallon s/s kettle and "Bayou Cooker" for brewing beer so I was already set up. I added 2 bottles of Rit DyeMore to 6 gallons of water and cooked my trampolines for 30 minutes each at 200F.

Very happy with the results. It will be interesting to see how the dye holds up with time. In the photo you can see my setup as well as one tramp in the pot and the other on the crossbeam which shows the contrast in color.

I did, but I believe it was in a thread about dye for anodizing aluminum

Anything that blocks UV will help as it prevents UV from penetrating deeper into the rope.

[thinwater]

Neat, but I think a much better choice for most people would be to apply a vinyl coating, which will prolong the life and improve the appearance.This one is OEM on many nets:


https://multihullnets.com/Prices/Sup...etCoating.aspx


I did mine one year ago. It's still perfect, like new. Very easy with a mini-roller from the top (it will soak through to below), didn't even take the nets (four) off (do drape the hulls and mask).

[mikereed100]

Originally Posted by thinwater

Neat, but I think a much better choice for most people would be to apply a vinyl coating, which will prolong the life and improve the appearance.This one is OEM on many nets:


https://multihullnets.com/Prices/Sup...etCoating.aspx


I did mine one year ago. It's still perfect, like new. Very easy with a mini-roller from the top (it will soak through to below), didn't even take the nets (four) off (do drape the hulls and mask).

Nice. I suspect my old polyester nets came coated with this or something similar. My nets were already off for hull painting, but the option to leave them in place is attractive.

[s/v Jedi]

Originally Posted by mikereed100

Nice. I suspect my old polyester nets came coated with this or something similar. My nets were already off for hull painting, but the option to leave them in place is attractive.

Reading the info, it sound like this is a kind of flexible paint, which forms a surface on top of the net rope. I come to that conclusion because they say the surface will not crack because it is flexible.

While such a surface provides better UV protection, it doesn’t sound like a deep penetrating product, while a dye will be very deep or even completely penetrating the rope, without leaving a surface on top of it, preserving the look and feel of rope rather than a plastic coating.

I think using Rit is a great experiment and after a while it can be evaluated and compared to the vinyl coating

[barnakiel]

I read of Dynema not liking heat. Not sure how this applies to your case though.


b.

[mikereed100]

Originally Posted by barnakiel

I read of Dynema not liking heat. Not sure how this applies to your case though.


b.

Yes, one does have to tread carefully with synthetics but they are hardier than many think. I was once berated on this board for protecting my Dyneema mainsheet extensions from chafe with electrical heat shrink tubing, although this is standard practice amongst professional riggers. At 200F I was about 60F below melting with my nets. Here's some info regarding Dyneema properties:
"Like other synthetic fibers, the mechanical properties of UHMWPE fibers are influenced by temperature. The strength and modulus increase at sub-ambient temperatures and decrease at higher temperatures. For long duration exposure UHMWPE fiber from DSM can be used from cryogenic conditions up to a temperature of 70°C.
Dyneema® fiber has a melting point between 144oC and 152oC. The tenacity and modulus decrease at higher temperatures but increase at sub-zero temperatures. There is no brittle point found as low as -150oC, so the fiber can be used between this temperature and 70oC. Brief exposure to higher temperatures will not cause any serious loss of properties."
https://fibrxl.com/fibrxl-performance/fibers/dyneema/

[Franziska]

Originally Posted by mikereed100

Yes, one does have to tread carefully with synthetics but they are hardier than many think. I was once berated on this board for protecting my Dyneema mainsheet extensions from chafe with electrical heat shrink tubing, although this is standard practice amongst professional riggers. At 200F I was about 60F below melting with my nets. Here's some info regarding Dyneema properties:
"Like other synthetic fibers, the mechanical properties of UHMWPE fibers are influenced by temperature. The strength and modulus increase at sub-ambient temperatures and decrease at higher temperatures. For long duration exposure UHMWPE fiber from DSM can be used from cryogenic conditions up to a temperature of 70°C.
Dyneema® fiber has a melting point between 144oC and 152oC. The tenacity and modulus decrease at higher temperatures but increase at sub-zero temperatures. There is no brittle point found as low as -150oC, so the fiber can be used between this temperature and 70oC. Brief exposure to higher temperatures will not cause any serious loss of properties."
https://fibrxl.com/fibrxl-performance/fibers/dyneema/

Hi Mike,



I'm likely going to follow your example with our next net.

It's only available in white or grey, but I'd like to have it black.



https://store.armareropes.com/eng/rete-in-dyneema-catamarani.html


I'm a bit worried that the surface treatment might stop me from dying it. So I'll get the grey one and need to try on a small piece.



Just wanted to check, did you mount your black dyed net already? No black soles when walking on it?



Another thing your net has seen several years of usage before you died, correct? Could it be that this helped, because any previous treatment might have worn off and leaving a more raw and open fiber surface which likely was accepting the dye better?



Kind regards,



Franziska

[mikereed100]

Originally Posted by Franziska

Hi Mike,



I'm likely going to follow your example with our next net.

It's only available in white or grey, but I'd like to have it black.



https://store.armareropes.com/eng/re...atamarani.html


I'm a bit worried that the surface treatment might stop me from dying it. So I'll get the grey one and need to try on a small piece.



Just wanted to check, did you mount your black dyed net already? No black soles when walking on it?



Another thing your net has seen several years of usage before you died, correct? Could it be that this helped, because any previous treatment might have worn off and leaving a more raw and open fiber surface which likely was accepting the dye better?



Kind regards,



Franziska

We have not mounted it yet but the dye does not seem to come off with handling. There was very little dye in the rinse water.

You are correct, these nets have been on the boat for over 7 years and the original gold colored coating was mostly gone. I don't know what manufacturers coat Dyneema with but it rubs off easily no matter what the brand or color. After 7 years in the sun there would be some UV damage which I suspect may help with dye penetration, but who knows? The nets still look pristine despite UV weakening, especially with the dye.

If you have the choice I would go with the white, which is the natural color of the Dyneema and should make dying or painting easier.

Good luck and have fun!

[Franziska]

Originally Posted by mikereed100

We have not mounted it yet but the dye does not seem to come off with handling. There was very little dye in the rinse water.

You are correct, these nets have been on the boat for over 7 years and the original gold colored coating was mostly gone. I don't know what manufacturers coat Dyneema with but it rubs off easily no matter what the brand or color. After 7 years in the sun there would be some UV damage which I suspect may help with dye penetration, but who knows? The nets still look pristine despite UV weakening, especially with the dye.

If you have the choice I would go with the white, which is the natural color of the Dyneema and should make dying or painting easier.

Good luck and have fun!

We have already received the silver one, lol. Have not Installed it yet. Need to change some stuff on the beam first.



Would really appreciate it if you could update me how it went during the first season, we might dye ours then.



Thank you, and the others, for replying.

[thinwater]

Originally Posted by mikereed100

... You are correct, these nets have been on the boat for over 7 years and the original gold colored coating was mostly gone. I don't know what manufacturers coat Dyneema with but it rubs off easily no matter what the brand or color. ...

At about the same time I re-coated the tramp (polyester--still perfect at 16 months--see post above 2-9-2024) I coated several 5-7 year-old Dyneema lines with several different brands of Dyneema rope coating. Yes, the original coating wears off the surface, the the coating between the strands lasts longer. When I recoated the same thing happened; the outside coating wears away quickly, but the inside part lasts much longer.

The trick when re-coating is dilute the coating (with water) so that it can soak in, and to bunch up the rope a little to open the weave (easy if you take the ropes off). Let dry before re-installing. I think the same would be true for a Dyneema tramp; it would oak in better if you could relax the weave. Besides, it would be challenging not to paint the boat.

I re-coated shroud tensioners, lifelines, jacklines, and whisker stays. I figure I will get an extra 4 years or so from them due to improved UV resistance. Probably a few hours of work, total.