Docking rubber as a rubbing strip?

[GILow]

Originally Posted by minaret

Did ya check with Taco Rails? They should have what you need, with a sacrificial rubber insert that is easy to replace when it gets worn.

Some of those look nice, not sure if I can get them in Oz, will check though.

[GILow]

Originally Posted by Reefmagnet

I have had docking rubber on the bullbar of my 4wd for a few years now as a bump stop. No problems with rotting or going sticky. I think the issues you will find with it is that it is not available in long lengths, is very rigid and difficult to conform around a curvature and is $$$ to buy.

Yes to both points. Longest lenght I could find was 4m, so I am faced with a bit of cold vulcanising if I go this path and yes, $$$ OUCH! Glad to hear your experience of its weather resistance though.

Originally Posted by Reefmagnet

Being from Aus, you may be interested in this catalogue of rubber odds and ends: http://www.purplepig.com.au/files/bzusdqdmms/PIG500_R4-Rubber-Products.pdf

Thanks, I had forgotten about purple pig. My mate who is a country firefighter swears by them.

[GILow]

Originally Posted by CaptFrankM

The biggest problem we had was finding something that would lay flat against the hull. Most rub rails are designed to cover the hull to deck joint and are not symmetrical top and bottom.

Yes, I see what you mean. It's frustrating as some of the profiles would be great but for that very problem.

[Group9]

Originally Posted by DefinitelyMe

I use clear reinforced hose for the rubrail on my 13' whaler. There are two ways to do it - either drill holes through one side at intervals and stick a lag bolt through the hose and into the rub rail or cut all the way along the hose and then bolt it through the rub rail top to bottom. I use the latter system and it works a charm. The hose goes opaque after a while but it works beautifully and doesn't leave any marks on anything. It's also a lot cheaper than getting stuff that's designed specifically for rub rails and a LOT more durable! 7 years of abuse and still going strong. Not sure if a similar system would work for a yacht but if your existing timber is even in reasonable structural shape it wouldn't be too hard to screw or lag bolt some hose directly into it. Aesthetics might suffer though......

You've given me something to think about. Thanks.

[beiland]

I'm wondering about surplus or new Handrails from escalators ??

[Hudson Force]

Originally Posted by GILow

Very neat. Is that whole black band a rubbing strip or is the top flange rubbing strip while the vertical band is gelcoat/paint?

Matt

From your question at post 13: This is a rubber extrusion with a "C" shape. The beauty of the extrusions from rubber "mills" is that they produce rolls of material that can be 50 or 100 feet long. I like the escalator handrail thought above, but there is some company that makes those extrusions. My reference to the Griffith Rubber Mills in Oregon & Indiana is a favorite for my supply because they manufacture rubber gaskets and rails used in large buliding construction and supply long lengths.

[SVI]

Do you produce them in white?

[atoll]

these guys can supply any lenth,and have about 1500 different profiles

Walker Rubber : Our Departments » Rubber Extrusions Tel: 01603 415044

[GILow]

Originally Posted by beiland

I'm wondering about surplus or new Handrails from escalators ??

Brilliant! Seriously! I am checking THAT idea out. Ta.

[GILow]

Originally Posted by CaptForce

From your question at post 13: This is a rubber extrusion with a "C" shape. The beauty of the extrusions from rubber "mills" is that they produce rolls of material that can be 50 or 100 feet long. I like the escalator handrail thought above, but there is some company that makes those extrusions. My reference to the Griffith Rubber Mills in Oregon & Indiana is a favorite for my supply because they manufacture rubber gaskets and rails used in large buliding construction and supply long lengths.

Right, I think I follow that... So the "open" face of the "C" profile faces the gelcoat if I am understanding your setup there.

I will look again at the various extrusions, I just could not find one "chunky/large" enough other than the docking rubbers, and has been pointed out, they are hard to find in lengths greater than 4m.

The "C" shape would be good if I can find it big enough as it address two problems. 1. It deals with my concern about trapping moisture against the outside of the boat against the gelcoat, and 2. I would not be paying for a face/plane of rubber that is doing nothing for me, i.e. the face against the boat is kind of pointless.

Matt

[beiland]

Originally Posted by GILow

Brilliant! Seriously! I am checking THAT idea out. Ta.

I actually saw that idea posted somewhere in the last 6 months and managed to remember it. I live part time here in Wash DC and we have lots of escalator problems....they are ALWAYS working on them. That's what made me think about surplus ones, or used ones.

I've not had time to check it out, but do let us know what you find?

[atoll]

Originally Posted by GILow

Right, I think I follow that... So the "open" face of the "C" profile faces the gelcoat if I am understanding your setup there.

I will look again at the various extrusions, I just could not find one "chunky/large" enough other than the docking rubbers, and has been pointed out, they are hard to find in lengths greater than 4m.

The "C" shape would be good if I can find it big enough as it address two problems. 1. It deals with my concern about trapping moisture against the outside of the boat against the gelcoat, and 2. I would not be paying for a face/plane of rubber that is doing nothing for me, i.e. the face against the boat is kind of pointless.

Matt

i am also looking at using one of these U shaped profiles,with an inner U
that will fit over the hull deck join on my new cat,the join protrudes about 1cm and is 2 cm wide,i will probably try to find either a polyuerathane or pvc glue to fix it to the hull,with no fastners except where it joins the bridge deck,and the bow and stern extremeties.

lots of very high spec glues available these days,and i hate the idea of drilling holes in the deck joint that over time will invariably leak

[Hudson Force]

Originally Posted by GILow

Right, I think I follow that... So the "open" face of the "C" profile faces the gelcoat if I am understanding your setup there.
...................................

Matt, Actually the open face of the "C" covers the bolted flanges of the hull and the deck. This is not the best plan because it puts the hull/deck joint at a vulnerable point. Morgan later raised the hull deck joint to the toe rail and left the rub rail lower. I've had no problems, but I recognize the weakness of the design. I have my rub rail attached to the hull/deck joint with C-Flex epoxy applied to the joint and to the rubber surface with no air or moisture at their interface. Previouly my same rubber rail was attached with 3M 5200 without a full seal, but with just a few running beads. Without the full expoxied adherence my rubber rail would occasional lift or pull away when moving against a piling. I'm far more pleased with the full epoxy attachment.

[GILow]

Just a follow up to this post in case anyone was searching on ideas.

I ended up finding the original profile I was looking at in lengths as long as I wanted by making a few phone calls. Turns out they chop the stuff down to short lengths for ease of handing but you could ask for just about any length you wanted, within reason.

We attached it using black Sika 291, with the sika primer on the back of the rubber profile first and 1.75" 14G screws screwed in through the topsides from inside the boat (thankfully access in our boat is very easy)

So far it is all working well, including a serious test of the strength of the bond recently when our boarding steps on the dock jammed under the rub rail as I was coming into the pen. I had worried that I might end up having to put timber blocking inside the profile to give the screws something to hang on to, but I might be ok with the current setup.

Touch wood, it has been a success, though it is fair to say the "look" of the rails would not be to everyone's tastes. Gives the boat a very "workboat" look.

Matt