Do I need a new stove?

[nortonscove]

Why not get someone qualified to look at it? To me that would be the first step.

[DanielI]

Originally Posted by nortonscove

Why not get someone qualified to look at it? To me that would be the first step.

I’m going to guess that the nearest marine propane professional is going to be 500 miles from Navajo Lake, CO. Which also means, whatever I decide, I’ll need to do my own install.

[nortonscove]

Originally Posted by DanielI

I’m going to guess that the nearest marine propane professional is going to be 500 miles from Navajo Lake, CO. Which also means, whatever I decide, I’ll need to do my own install.

Marine would be ideal but I'm sure anyone dealing with those fittings would be more knowledgeable than 99% of this forum.

[DanielI]

An update (for anyone interested) and a question.

We decided the first step is to install a sniffer. We went with the Trident, which wires directly to the solenoid, so it has an auto-shutoff, in addition to the alarm. The kit comes with a new solenoid, so that will get replaced. The old hose looks fine, but I have no evidence it is not 30 years old, so that is getting replaced to. And while we are at it, we ordered a new pressure regulator and gauge. Since the old tank was bad (that’s basically what started us down this road), that means everything from tank to stove fitting will be new.

For the record, the “tight” fitting issue seems to be that the stove has an NPT, and the hose is flare fitting. It worked before because of the not-to-spec tee.

Some people seem very skittish about DIY gas installs, but each segment seems like normal user maintenance, so I don’t see the issue if I’m careful, and make sure to do a pressure gauge leak test.

We looked at replacing the stove, but the one we want (Dickinson Caribbean) is on back order, and probably not available before the end of our season. So I think we will try to get it for next year. Better cash flow this way, too.

Now my one question: what do people recommend for chafe protection where the new (rubber) hose goes through a hole in the bulkhead?

[thinwater]

^^ and soap bubble test all of the fittings.


A short length of split hose is traditional and effective. Often it is secured with a little sealant (but do NOT glue the hose to the split hose or bulkhead).

[DanielI]

Originally Posted by thinwater

^^ and soap bubble test all of the fittings.

A short length of split hose is traditional and effective. Often it is secured with a little sealant (but do NOT glue the hose to the split hose or bulkhead).

Is a soap test informative if it has passed a proper pressure test?

Just to be clear, the sealant is used to hold the chafe protector in place, so between that and the bulkhead?

[stormalong]

Originally Posted by thinwater

A short length of split hose is traditional and effective. Often it is secured with a little sealant (but do NOT glue the hose to the split hose or bulkhead).

A couple of zip ties are an easy way to hold the split hose in place.

[DanielI]

Came up two weeks ago, and discovered we didn’t have all the fitting we needed. Up this weekend, and currently in the middle of multiple pressure tests to find the fitting that isn’t tight enough. So far, a titchy job, but nothing that makes me think I need a professional.

On the electrical side, any advice on where to mount the propane detector (picture attached). Instructions say the wires should be at the bottom, does that mean the horizontal mounting in the picture wouldn’t work? Would it be better to put it on the vertical surface immediately below? That’s about 6” off the floor.

As an aside, it’s weird how the detector has that big wire connector, that doesn’t go behind it, so I’ll need a largish hole sitting exposed for a relatively small wire.

[stormalong]

Originally Posted by DanielI

Came up two weeks ago, and discovered we didn’t have all the fitting we needed. Up this weekend, and currently in the middle of multiple pressure tests to find the fitting that isn’t tight enough. So far, a titchy job, but nothing that makes me think I need a professional.

On the electrical side, any advice on where to mount the propane detector (picture attached). Instructions say the wires should be at the bottom, does that mean the horizontal mounting in the picture wouldn’t work? Would it be better to put it on the vertical surface immediately below? That’s about 6” off the floor.

As an aside, it’s weird how the detector has that big wire connector, that doesn’t go behind it, so I’ll need a largish hole sitting exposed for a relatively small wire.

Propane gas is heavier than air so the closer to the floor the more sensitive it will be. Having said that it is also important the the sensor remains dry and clean.

What is on the other end of the wire? Can you drill a hole jest large enough for the wire and feed the whole wire through? Or if there are connectors on both ends can you cut and splice the wire somewhere where it won't be seen?