Design of a yacht dodger.

[coopec43]

I'm very keen to build a dodger for my yacht and I'm trying to work out a design. I thought I had to leave sufficient space for 360 degree of the winch handle but no?

" No, it is not necessary to have 360° movement with a yacht winch handle. Many winches, especially single-speed and self-tailing models, allow for a "push and pull" operation, meaning you can use the handle to pull and then push it back without needing a full rotation. This can be more efficient and less tiring than continuous 360° turns, especially when dealing with higher loads.

I'm sure I have read that you must be able to look over the dodger when standing at the helm

"Yacht dodger height can vary depending on the boat type and personal preference, but they typically range from around 550mm (21.6 inches) to a height where the helm and cabin access are not obstructed. Some dodgers, like California dodgers, may be taller and deeper than traditional dodgers, while others, like traditional dodgers, may be more compact and easier to see over."

I've read that the dodger must be well vented as it can become intolerably hot in the tropics. (Surely that would only be the case if it was constructed out of steel or aluminum?) However I plan to build my dodger out of glass/divynicell core. I have two deck hatches and plan to use one as an opening window at the front and one on top of the dodger (that should provide plenty of ventilation)

I like the style of the dodger on Garcia. Are there any other things I should consider? Thanks

[Wandering1]

Originally Posted by coopec43

I'm very keen to build a dodger for my yacht and I'm trying to work out a design. I thought I had to leave sufficient space for 360 degree of the winch handle but no?

" No, it is not necessary to have 360° movement with a yacht winch handle. Many winches, especially single-speed and self-tailing models, allow for a "push and pull" operation, meaning you can use the handle to pull and then push it back without needing a full rotation. This can be more efficient and less tiring than continuous 360° turns, especially when dealing with higher loads.

I'm sure I have read that you must be able to look over the dodger when standing at the helm

"Yacht dodger height can vary depending on the boat type and personal preference, but they typically range from around 550mm (21.6 inches) to a height where the helm and cabin access are not obstructed. Some dodgers, like California dodgers, may be taller and deeper than traditional dodgers, while others, like traditional dodgers, may be more compact and easier to see over."

I've read that the dodger must be well vented as it can become intolerably hot in the tropics. (Surely that would only be the case if it was constructed out of steel or aluminum?) However I plan to build my dodger out of glass/divynicell core. I have two deck hatches and plan to use one as an opening window at the front and one on top of the dodger (that should provide plenty of ventilation)

I like the style of the dodger on Garcia. Are there any other things I should consider? Thanks

We are just finishing our hard dodger. It's a total copy of our canvas dodger that we have been using for the last 12 years. We really like the design of the canvas dodger but not the high temperatures under a navy blue canvas in the Tropics. For this reason, we copied the design but built it in PET core and epoxy/glass.
I have just finished spray painting it inside and out. It's like spraying a Mini car, inside and out! Next is to fit the windows, the non-slip paint for the top where we will stand on it to zip up the mainsail stackpack, and the 300w of solar. Also need to wire the buried conduit for lighting and solar wiring.

[scherzoja]

• Make core thick enough so you can run wires for overhead lights (dimmable reading lights, red lights, wires for any instruments that will be under dodger, USB or Anderson Power pole sockets to power/charge devices under the dodger)
• Water catch lip around perimeter to harvest rain water
• Opening forward window for ventilation ( "...constructed out of steel or aluminum..." With windows, heat will build up inside dodger [think greenhouse], even if foam cored fiberglass, you need ventilation, often only fwd/center window is enough.) Maybe not necessary to have all windows opening
• Removable so you can lift engine or other heavy objects out of the boat
• Where will you put the mainsheet: fwd of dodger, aft of dodger, on the dodger
• Do you need a boom gallows, integrate into dodger?
• Sides of dodger go far enough aft to provide protection for someone sitting at fwd end of cockpit
• Sides of dodger do not impede (too much) egress from and ingress to the cockpit from the deck
• Grab rails on the dodger, especially when walking on deck past the dodger
• Grab rail along aft edge (athwartship)
• Add plexiglass dome so you can stand on companionway steps and see 360 degrees
• A way to attach some form of curtain to the aft plane so you can create an all-weather "porch"
  
• Standing to look over the dodger is good because it is a PIA to look through windows with water obscuring view. Make sure the height is comfortable, whether you look over or through. Take time to ensure that you don't have to slouch a bit to get the view you need.
  
• Color of inside surface should be darker than white, like gray or dark gray so it is not bright.
• Overall aesthetics: Does it look it was designed with the boat or an after-thought
• Will an opening hatch on the roof actually help with ventilation or make the design more complicated with minimal added ventilation?

[SoggyPaws]

This is what we ended up with on our 40-year old monohull, after a 4 year Caribbean trip, and before our round-the-world trip. I DO think you should be able to 360 winch handles, in most circumstances.
We absolutely LOVED this dodger. It worked well for us for 8 years long range cruising, until we sold the boat. Pics and details here:
https://svsoggypaws.com/CSY/cockpit.htm

[Wandering1]

Originally Posted by scherzoja

• Make core thick enough so you can run wires for overhead lights (dimmable reading lights, red lights, wires for any instruments that will be under dodger, USB or Anderson Power pole sockets to power/charge devices under the dodger)
• Water catch lip around perimeter to harvest rain water
• Opening forward window for ventilation ( "...constructed out of steel or aluminum..." With windows, heat will build up inside dodger [think greenhouse], even if foam cored fiberglass, you need ventilation, often only fwd/center window is enough.) Maybe not necessary to have all windows opening
• Removable so you can lift engine or other heavy objects out of the boat
• Where will you put the mainsheet: fwd of dodger, aft of dodger, on the dodger
• Do you need a boom gallows, integrate into dodger?
• Sides of dodger go far enough aft to provide protection for someone sitting at fwd end of cockpit
• Sides of dodger do not impede (too much) egress from and ingress to the cockpit from the deck
• Grab rails on the dodger, especially when walking on deck past the dodger
• Grab rail along aft edge (athwartship)
• Add plexiglass dome so you can stand on companionway steps and see 360 degrees
• A way to attach some form of curtain to the aft plane so you can create an all-weather "porch"
  
• Standing to look over the dodger is good because it is a PIA to look through windows with water obscuring view. Make sure the height is comfortable, whether you look over or through. Take time to ensure that you don't have to slouch a bit to get the view you need.
  
• Color of inside surface should be darker than white, like gray or dark gray so it is not bright.
• Overall aesthetics: Does it look it was designed with the boat or an after-thought
• Will an opening hatch on the roof actually help with ventilation or make the design more complicated with minimal added ventilation?

We have 20mm core that allowed me to install an elliptical conduit, totally concealed.
The front opening window is 8mm acrylic. Top hinged.
Our internal white paint is a matt finish to stop glare.
We have a cockpit tent that attaches to thr dodger to completely enclose the cockpit. We also have a flap that will seal the ack of the dodger when sailing, especially useful in following wind and rain.

[coopec43]

I'm about to look at your posts. I've just been told I don't have the right to post!


This one looks OK - a lot narrower.

[Benz]

Full winch handle clearance is REALLY IMPORTANT if you value being able to winch.
I've had to crank in sheets on an ill-designed wreck with only partial winch-handle throw, and it was misery, as well as bad for the knuckles.

I would make full winch motion a priority.

[scherzoja]

Originally Posted by Wandering1

We have a cockpit tent that attaches to thr dodger to completely enclose the cockpit. We also have a flap that will seal the ack of the dodger when sailing, especially useful in following wind and rain.

What did you use to attach the cockpit tent and flap to the aft end of the dodger?

[coopec43]

Originally Posted by scherzoja

• Make core thick enough so you can run wires for overhead lights (dimmable reading lights, red lights, wires for any instruments that will be under dodger, USB or Anderson Power pole sockets to power/charge devices under the dodger)
• Water catch lip around perimeter to harvest rain water
• Opening forward window for ventilation ( "...constructed out of steel or aluminum..." With windows, heat will build up inside dodger [think greenhouse], even if foam cored fiberglass, you need ventilation, often only fwd/center window is enough.) Maybe not necessary to have all windows opening
• Removable so you can lift engine or other heavy objects out of the boat
• Where will you put the mainsheet: fwd of dodger, aft of dodger, on the dodger
• Do you need a boom gallows, integrate into dodger?
• Sides of dodger go far enough aft to provide protection for someone sitting at fwd end of cockpit
• Sides of dodger do not impede (too much) egress from and ingress to the cockpit from the deck
• Grab rails on the dodger, especially when walking on deck past the dodger
• Grab rail along aft edge (athwartship)
• Add plexiglass dome so you can stand on companionway steps and see 360 degrees
• A way to attach some form of curtain to the aft plane so you can create an all-weather "porch"
• Standing to look over the dodger is good because it is a PIA to look through windows with water obscuring view. Make sure the height is comfortable, whether you look over or through. Take time to ensure that you don't have to slouch a bit to get the view you need.
• Color of inside surface should be darker than white, like gray or dark gray so it is not bright.
• Overall aesthetics: Does it look it was designed with the boat or an after-thought
• Will an opening hatch on the roof actually help with ventilation or make the design more complicated with minimal added ventilation?

Thank you for that. That's a good checklist as it has raised a number of points I hadn't considered.

[barnakiel]

imho


vertical windows are better than sloping
an opening front is super nice in the tropics
painting white inside is a huge mistake
built in handholds are +++
a shallow (short) is bad, a long one is better
a roof sloping forward is bad in tropical rain or any serious rain
a roof slanting sidewise is better
it does not get hot - you simply make the top in sandwich or else make shade with a small tent


etc.


9 ways to skin a cat, 7 ways to skin a mono


barnakiel

[CarlF]

Do not use a rollable vinyl like Strataglass for the forward windows. In less than a year visibility will start to decline. Use:

Tempered glass (the best option for longevity and visibility)
Plexiglass/Acrylic (Good for about 10 years if properly cared for)
Polycarbonate (Macrolon is one brand) which can also go 10 years.

My last boat had a standard canvas dodger with polycarbonate forward windows that could be unzipped and folded up to clip to the underside of the dodger roof. Worked really well and when I sold the boat 8 years later those polycarbonate windows were still clear as glass. Like looking through a car windshield.

And while we could open the forward windows, we haven't for five years. The roll-up side windows and open back provide so much ventilation that two more opening windows wouldn't make a difference.

[FabioC]

Originally Posted by Benz

Full winch handle clearance is REALLY IMPORTANT if you value being able to winch.
I've had to crank in sheets on an ill-designed wreck with only partial winch-handle throw, and it was misery, as well as bad for the knuckles.

I would make full winch motion a priority.

I second that. Although the "pull push action" is supported by all multi-speed winches, but full clearance is very important.
When you measure for clearance, do not forget to leave clearance for the knuckles as well! The guy who built my dodger measured only the length of the handle and forgot that detail... fortunately, a shorter handle did the trick, but still...

[coopec43]

Originally Posted by CarlF

Do not use a rollable vinyl like Strataglass for the forward windows. In less than a year visibility will start to decline. Use:

Tempered glass (the best option for longevity and visibility)
Plexiglass/Acrylic (Good for about 10 years if properly cared for)
Polycarbonate (Macrolon is one brand) which can also go 10 years.

My last boat had a standard canvas dodger with polycarbonate forward windows that could be unzipped and folded up to clip to the underside of the dodger roof. Worked really well and when I sold the boat 8 years later those polycarbonate windows were still clear as glass. Like looking through a car windshield.

And while we could open the forward windows, we haven't for five years. The roll-up side windows and open back provide so much ventilation that two more opening windows wouldn't make a difference.

'I agree with you 100% re the use of tempered glass and I would glue it in place just as they do with motor cars.

[coopec43]

Originally Posted by Benz

Full winch handle clearance is REALLY IMPORTANT if you value being able to winch.
I've had to crank in sheets on an ill-designed wreck with only partial winch-handle throw, and it was misery, as well as bad for the knuckles.

I would make full winch motion a priority.

If I am kneeling on the center cockpit seat working the sheet winch would I really be swinging the winch handle 360°? (It's a hypothetical question as I will give sufficient room anyway)

If I am working the halyard winches from withing the cockpit I really need to be able to see the top of the mast?

I've decided to go for something like this but with three windows across the front (center one id a deck hatch)

[JPA Cate]

Here's a link to a previous thread on the forum, about hard dodgers: https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums...ps-175159.html

Often when you are told you cannot post, it means you are not logged in.

Count me among the you need a full circle on the winch clan. I actually like to stand aft of the winch, one foot on the side deck, one in the cockpit. With our self tailing winches, I can both crank the winch and watch the sail trim.



Ann