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Old 10-12-2019, 09:56   #16
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Re: Curved wooden mouldings - how to?

https://www.westsystem.com/instruction-manuals/
for this job I would not go the wet way by steam bending lumber, but look for a furniture maker or lumber shop and buy veneer. After soaking and cooking the lumber you got to dry it again, kiln-dry at not more than 11%. Best glue is Epoxy laminating resin. Sure there is a local brand fishermen are using
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Old 10-12-2019, 12:25   #17
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Re: Curved wooden mouldings - how to?

I Just did this with teak for the nose trim under the bowsprit.


I used 1/8" thick strips. I put them in boiling water for a few minutes to heat the fibers then slowly bent them around the form. I left them until the next day and took them off the form. I used a heat gun to warm and dry them each before gluing. I used West epoxy with 406 for the thickened glue. This worked like a charm.
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Old 10-12-2019, 12:33   #18
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Re: Curved wooden mouldings - how to?

For this application I would consider just cutting a series of blocks with miter cuts to approximate the bulkhead curve and glue up. Make sure the blocks are large enough to cut the desired edge molding shape. Pay attention to keep the grain running the same. Place the rough assemble on the side of the bulkhead and trace the shape and cut. Then router a rabbit in the back edge to fit over the plywood bulkhead. Then roundover the outer edges to match the other trim in the boat.
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Old 10-12-2019, 12:42   #19
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Re: Curved wooden mouldings - how to?

If you want to laminate thin strips, you can either steam them in a length of drain pipe with an old fashion steam kettle (not an electric one) at one end or soak them in water for several hours after having added ammonia to the water, which I believe helps make the timber more springy and/or allows the water to penetrate it better, either way, form the strips up, let them dry out,(nearly)then coat with glue and put back in the form , clamp and wait for it to dry out. For other smaller mouldings, there are several companies that make ready made curves and other mouldings, for corners, hand grips etc. In Europe there is a company called Onward Marine (formerly Onward Trading www.onwardmarine.com) that make a huge range of mouldings ,they are based in Holland I believe but have outlets in other countries. They also make all the various mouldings needed to make Louvre doors, window surrounds and pin rails.
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Old 10-12-2019, 14:08   #20
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Re: Curved wooden mouldings - how to?

Here is an article about bending wood without using steam...

Cheers! Bill
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Old 10-12-2019, 16:12   #21
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Re: Curved wooden mouldings - how to?

You could always get a piece of PVC pipe cut it down the middle and then slide it over the bulkhead. A bit of filler and 6oz cloth to keep it in place, then fill/fair/undercoat and topcoat. Quick easy way to get a nice rounded finish on that edge.
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Old 10-12-2019, 17:54   #22
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Re: Curved wooden mouldings - how to?

All the post have good ideas. I think wood working is a skill that is developed over the course of many projects. The one you’re thinking about sounds challenging for a novice. It certainly can be done but professional results may be elusive. I have jumped in to all sorts of projects over the years and most of them came out pretty good. Whatever you decideI think it’s wise to invest in quality tools. Make sure to save all the pieces you remove from the boat as they may be useful later on. One last thing have you considered refinishing the bright work
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Old 10-12-2019, 21:00   #23
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Re: Curved wooden mouldings - how to?

Boat brand, model, year? Most production builders either have a fully set up shop with the molding jigs & skilled trades or subcontract it all out. At CS Yachts (way back) all interior furniture and trim was manufactured by Craftwood Industries (couldn't find their website). Pieces were quality checked when they came of the trucks, and carpentry staff would fine fit each piece. C&C and Hinterhoeller did their's in house. By the time you buy all the right tools & equipment, scrap a lot of expensive wood, and spend a lot of time head scratching it might be good to see if builder can supply IMHO
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Old 10-12-2019, 21:42   #24
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Re: Curved wooden mouldings - how to?

Sail Life channel. The last 5 or 6 episodes were pretty darn spiffy, to put it in his words! He makes it look easy when steam is not an option.
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Old 11-12-2019, 09:58   #25
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Re: Curved wooden mouldings - how to?

Tons of great information here (thanks!) and its making me think that maybe I should have a crack at refinishing the old stuff first!

@notiesbob, unfortunately the builder(s) are long deceased, she started life as the Contessa 27, then became the MGC 27 for MG Yachts, but they're both long out of business.

Now I realise why many modern designs tend to use mitre style cuts, or curves sanded from smaller pieces of stock.
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Old 11-12-2019, 10:10   #26
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Re: Curved wooden mouldings - how to?

A couple of things I learned when I bent wood in a project:
-Teak does not steam bend well at all. Probably due to the oil. It can be done.
-Oak steam bends readily.
-It's a ton of work and be prepared to do and re-do.
-If you make a channel shape to slip over the bulkhead, it may want to twist when you bend it.
-Laminated mouldings are pretty easy but messy for sure. Blocks on a heavy plywood plate can help you get the curve you want. You will need a little over bend.

If I were you I would restore the mouldings you have. Far far easier than making new ones.
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Old 11-12-2019, 10:23   #27
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Re: Curved wooden mouldings - how to?

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Originally Posted by Cheechako View Post
You will need a little over bend.
There is a bit of spring back when released, but once put on the finished bulkhead, it pulls right back into place with very little pressure. I don't think I'd try estimating or compensating for spring when designing the form.

I have tried to do this without a router table and laminate the u-channel ears on either side of the template, but found it was way too difficult to clamp the smaller strips and keep them aligned. We end-up with a pretty bad laminate and large glue lines all around the sides. Has anyone had success doing it this way? It still seems that building a temporary router table would be easier.

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Old 11-12-2019, 10:30   #28
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Re: Curved wooden mouldings - how to?

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Originally Posted by jhulmer View Post
I Just did this with teak for the nose trim under the bowsprit.


I used 1/8" thick strips. I put them in boiling water for a few minutes to heat the fibers then slowly bent them around the form. I left them until the next day and took them off the form. I used a heat gun to warm and dry them each before gluing. I used West epoxy with 406 for the thickened glue. This worked like a charm.
Nice job It's an interesting project isn't it? Not something I'd like to do full time for a living, but fun to experiment with and it makes you really appreciate when it's done well on other boats.

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Old 11-12-2019, 10:35   #29
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Re: Curved wooden mouldings - how to?

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Originally Posted by funjohnson View Post
There is a bit of spring back when released, but once put on the finished bulkhead, it pulls right back into place with very little pressure. I don't think I'd try estimating or compensating for spring when designing the form.

I have tried to do this without a router table and laminate the u-channel ears on either side of the template, but found it was way too difficult to clamp the smaller strips and keep them aligned. We end-up with a pretty bad laminate and large glue lines all around the sides. Has anyone had success doing it this way? It still seems that building a temporary router table would be easier.

Matt
That's a good point Matt which I missed. I was thinking of the custom small dingy tiller I made.

Regarding alignment, yes it is difficult to keep all those slippery pieces in alignment! I just make the whole thing big and bandsaw to size after laminating!
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Old 11-12-2019, 10:50   #30
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Re: Curved wooden mouldings - how to?

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Originally Posted by Cheechako View Post

Regarding alignment, yes it is difficult to keep all those slippery pieces in alignment! I just make the whole thing big and bandsaw to size after laminating!

A surface thickness planer works well in this situation. I suck at keeping a straight line with a bandsaw, so planning by hand or with a machine is my only option. I'm so jealous of people with actual wood working skills!

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