Cryogel Z

[Suijin]

Another option to consider is vacuum insulated panels, which have an R value of 40 for 1" thickness. Rparts.com sells them in various sizes and will also fabricate custom shapes. While expensive, they give you the highest R value per inch that you're going to find.

[john61ct]

Originally Posted by Red Sky

Again...http://www.starch.dk/private/energy/...aceloft_DS.pdf

Y'all wanna go in on a group buy?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/380909081075

[senormechanico]

The thermal ranges for all three types overlap considerably.
Aerogel is in the middle range.
Any one of them would work fine for a fridge / freezer.
Pyrogel for exhaust wrap.

[newhaul]

Well here is what I just mined up http://www.aerogel.com/_resources/co...ogel_XT_DS.pdf
And with a k value of .14 it seems that there value is r14 per inch for pyrogel at temp of 32°f.
Cryogel
http://www.insulationindustries.com....yogel_z_ds.pdf
And a k value of .095 so r value of r11 per inch temperature of 32°f.

[roverhi]

Has anyone had any success finding polyisocysnurate foam insulation?? Supposedly way superior to styrofoam and way less money than aerogel. Supposed to be available at a lot of places but no one has been able to source it.

[newhaul]

Originally Posted by roverhi

Has anyone had any success finding polyisocysnurate foam insulation?? Supposedly way superior to styrofoam and way less money than aerogel. Supposed to be available at a lot of places but no one has been able to source it.

In stock at my local home depot. But only R6 per inch so still need 5 inches for R30 . in some cases there isn't enough room for 5 inches of insulation. Thermasheath Rmax Thermasheath-3 1 in. x 4 ft. x 8 ft. R-6 Polyisocyanurate Rigid Foam Insulation Board-787264 - The Home Depot

[SV THIRD DAY]

Originally Posted by exMaggieDrum

If you are correct then the cost would be 3x what I said, or way over US$2100. I have a hard time believing that anyone would use such an expensive material.

Bingo.....
$200 for 4-5 inches of polyiso.....

[newhaul]

Originally Posted by SV THIRD DAY

Bingo.....
$200 for 4-5 inches of polyiso.....

But some don't have the room for 4 or 5 inches of foam . so we are stuck with the higher cost. Hence my desire to find the best I can . if I'm spending the money I want it to be worth it.

[fallingeggs]

Originally Posted by ColdEh Marine

It's actually not all that hard to reisulate thru the door . You need a good cut off saw to get the old liner out. A pair of ear protectors, it gets load in there and your ears will ring if you don't . I lay up the new liners with fiberglass and let them sit in the sun for a week to let them off gas. I will be doing a blog post on my site and a video going thru the whole process, just takes time . I can walk you thru it once you get started .

Regards John

Do please let us know when that video comes out!

[Typhoon]

Originally Posted by fallingeggs

Do please let us know when that video comes out!

Absolutely , will do . Probably won't have a chance to finish editing it until after the boat show">Annapolis boat show but I will post it here as soon as I do .

Regards John

[exMaggieDrum]

Originally Posted by newhaul

In stock at my local home depot. But only R6 per inch so still need 5 inches for R30 . in some cases there isn't enough room for 5 inches of insulation. Thermasheath Rmax Thermasheath-3 1 in. x 4 ft. x 8 ft. R-6 Polyisocyanurate Rigid Foam Insulation Board-787264 - The Home Depot

If this is what I think it is, it is not closed cell so will not do for a wet environment. It's used for insulating house framing.

[SV THIRD DAY]

Originally Posted by exMaggieDrum

If this is what I think it is, it is not closed cell so will not do for a wet environment. It's used for insulating house framing.

The R-Max sold at Home depot is classic PolyIsocyanurate and will make a Great box. I fight this myth all the time. It's lined with foil on each side and then you us foil tape to seal up the cut edges. Then a proper vapor barrier and it works great.

What makes insulation wet is air movement and condensation, so if you deal with that properly PolyIso won't be an issue. Ignore if ofcourse and you have problems.

[Typhoon]

Rich, is right Polyiso, makes a great box! . We Use three materials when building boxes . XPS or blue/pink board , Polyiso, with the foil on both sides , and of course Areogel for the doors . Vapor barrier every thing , and then vapor barrier it again , you do not want any air moving around in there ! Also if you puncture any of the foil on he Polyiso, tape it with vapor barrier tape .
This will give you a box that will keep your stores cold for many many years and save KWs of power .

Regards John.

[exMaggieDrum]

Yesterday I was poking around the inside of my old box and discovered it was all framed with 1/2" plywood which is wet and will came apart easily with a small screwdriver. The insulation inside that is the crumbly yellow open cell crap that you see all the time. Sawsall time. Good news is I think I have a couple more inches to work with in the bottom of the reefer/freezer so not constrained so much there.

I also did some doodling and remeasuring. My current thinking is to use 8" of Dow blue board in the bottom of the freezer and 6" for the reefer (R40 and R30). And then I will mix and match the blue board with Cryogel as needed to keep the room I need for the cold plate in the freezer and enough room for my cervezas in the reefer, to give a total of R40 for the bottom and all sides for the freezer and R30 for the reefer. Rich suggested using 1" of foam for the divider. All with a new interior skins/walls. I may use only Cryogel for the doors depending on how the design and cost go.

I'm thinking of using the Rparts fiberglass sheet for the liner skins. 1/4" for the bottoms and for the side that will hold the cold plate. 1/8" for the walls and underneath the top. I'll put in epoxy fillets at all joints for strength and sealing. The blue board is rigid enough with good compression to support the liners even with the 1/16" fiberglass sheet you can get at Home Depot. I used it before on my other boat and just caulked it. I glued in each later to keep it all rigid and flat for the liners. If not the flexing will crack the caulking or corner seals.

ColdEh, thanks for the video on the doors. I wanted to save my tapered ones but everyone of the sides is a different taper and I will have to take out the interior matched surfaces so I think I will just do square sides with two gasketed lips internally - like the rparts doors and the one you made. I want to hinge them too with keepers to hold them up and open in use. No way do I want to try and hold a door and get stuff out with the other hand in a sea way. My oscillating cut off saw will do a nice job in cutting off the existing material.

I've decided to go with Technautics Cool Blue - cold plate and compressor unit. I had one before and it was excellent and trouble free. I can almost taste the ice cream....

BTW, I used thin strips of door skin, a scriber for irregular edges and angles, and a hot glue gun to make patterns for the inside walls. Worked great before. I actually cut all the panels out on the dock with my jigsaw just before putting them in. I'll do that again, only probably not on the dock because of the nasty glass dust.

[noelex 77]

I am just researching some potential additional insulation around our fridge and came across this:

"Polyisocyanurate:*Rated at R6-6.5 per inch, but don't count on that.*Most insulations actually perform a bit better the colder it gets but polyisocyanurate*breaks that rule. As of about 15°C*its performance starts to deteriorate, and badly."

See here:
http://www.ecohome.net/guide/polyiso...duct-learn-use

I have no idea if there is any truth in the statement. So comments from the fridge experts would be appreciated.