Crazy port lights

[K1MGY]

My 1993 Hunter 42 CC Passage has apparently been to hell and back, especially when I consider the condition of the port lights.

Here's a photo of the worst of the bunch:



Is this is the kind of damage that can be polished out? Any speculation as to what might have caused this? Can I replace it myself? Any good books or web sites that might lead me in a good direction?

I'm new to this, so all ideas welcome!

/mark

[double u]

the crazing seriously weakens the lens. (I once fell through a hatch lens (I <70kg).
what's the brand?

[K1MGY]

Originally Posted by double u

the crazing seriously weakens the lens. (I once fell through a hatch lens (I <70kg).
what's the brand?

It's on a Hunter 42. The hatches are all Lewmar. This is just a solid plexiglas (?) port light.

[Calif.Ted]

That won't polish out, replacement is the only option, many do it themselves but it can be a labor intensive. Assume you mean the fixed ports. I'll attach one source for replacements.
https://shop.hunterowners.com/hp/hpcat.php?m=42&c=2

[double u]

Standard Port (Old) 0 Opening 177 x 326 6,97 x 12,83 Acrylic 360015099

Standard Port (Old) 1 Opening 193 x 369 7,6 x 14,53 Acrylic 360016099

Standard Port (Old) 2 Opening 177 x 427 6,97 x 16,81 Acrylic 360017099

Standard Port (Old) 3 Opening 193 x 451 7,6 x 17,76 Acrylic 360018099

Standard Port (Old) 4 Opening 193 x 649 7,6 x 25,55 Acrylic 360019099

Standard Port (Old) 4L Opening 193 x 710 (Tapered) 7,6 x 27,95 (Tapered) Acrylic 360246299

Standard Port (Old) 4R Opening 193 x 710 (Tapered) 7,6 x 27,95 (Tapered) Acrylic 360244099

Standard Port (Old) 5 Opening 266 x 451 10,47 x 17,76 Acrylic 360021099

these are dimensions metric & imperial & part-no.s for the acrylics of the "Old Standard Portlights" from Lewmar, the ones with the rotating "L"-shaped locking levers. If your PL are "New standard PL" (latch is pushed towards the lens to lock): I have those too (the XL file is too large to upload, I copied the relevant info out)

[double u]

here ya go
https://www.oceanchandlery.com/lewma...-acrylics.html

https://www.lewmar.com/node/14691

[double u]

https://www.p2marine.com/lewmar-old-...ortlight-parts

[JPA Cate]

At some point someone may have used an ammonia based window cleaner on it, which is death to acrylic. Those port's lenses need to be replaced. You can do it yourself. Buy a sheet of clear acrylic of the same thickness, size should be adequate for all the lenses that are crazed. Use kerosene as the lubricant for the sabre saw blade. If you don't have steady hands, maybe you can get the plastics shop to cut them for you.

What you use to clean acrylic is plain dishwashing soap like Dawn or an equivalent. You can also use products made especially for plastics, cleaners and polishes; however for just cleaning them all I ever use is a soft soapy sponge and dry with a dish towel, which then goes in the laundry if it is soiled.

Clean, also, the gaskets. Yours may need replacing. It is possible to buy the same size gasket material and use it. Cyanoacrylate glue to close the circle. They seal best when wiped clean of dirt as needed.

Ann

[Nekton73]

Here is another option for acrylic. They sell pieces smaller than full sheet for very reasonable prices; lots of different colours and tints too. I bought 3/8" and 1/2" pieces and cut and drilled my own portlight replacements using my old ones as templates. Super easy.



https://www.estreetplastics.com/Grey...-2064-s/80.htm


Once you place the order they aren't super great at communicating but the pieces arrived very well packaged, in perfect condition, and within the timeline they estimated. I'd buy from them again.

[K1MGY]

Ann, thank you so much for the information. I am encouraged to try cutting my own, thanks to your good words!

I will post here as I progress, which might be useful to others.

/mark

[JPA Cate]

Originally Posted by K1MGY

Ann, thank you so much for the information. I am encouraged to try cutting my own, thanks to your good words!

I will post here as I progress, which might be useful to others.

/mark

Well done, Mark! One never knows with someone one hasn't met, how much of a DIYer they are. Go for it. Buy enough acrylic to ruin one or two till you get a hang for it. I would actually make a template to cut by, or scribe the acrylic to the correct dimensions. Your portlights look so crazed, they may be difficult to remove intact. Imo, it will be important to get them the right size and make any holes the right size (acrylic can expand up to 25%, so you need serious clearance for it and flexible sealant that remains flexible.



Ann

[K1MGY]

Ann, it would be cool if I might find someone who can laser cut the acrylic. Where I live (Florida panhandle), there's not much in the way of high tech...

I am most definitely a DIY guy, but the precision of a laser is very attractive.

Anyhow, first order of business is to order some stock, and then figure out how I will remove the bad portlights without making a total mess of things!

/m

[K1MGY]

Thank YOU Double U. The lewmar and alternative info is very helpful!

I take it you're very familiar with this kind of repair. Have you done this prior?

[stormalong]

Originally Posted by K1MGY

Ann, it would be cool if I might find someone who can laser cut the acrylic. Where I live (Florida panhandle), there's not much in the way of high tech...

I am most definitely a DIY guy, but the precision of a laser is very attractive.

Anyhow, first order of business is to order some stock, and then figure out how I will remove the bad portlights without making a total mess of things!

/m

Assuming you can get the old one out intact it is easy to replicate it with a router. Rough cut the shape with a jig saw, clamp the old to the new. Use at least four clamps and use thin pieces of wood to protect the new plexi. Use a router bit with a ball bearing to follow the old piece and cut the new. Cut slowly - don't heat the plexi. When you have done as much as you can going around the clamps move the clamps one at a time and complete the cutting. Leave the paper on the new plexi until you are ready to install.

The same goes for drilling holes. Use new bits and drill slowly. Do not overheat. Plexi is very sensitive to heat. The drilled hole may look fine but in a few weeks or months they will spider crack if they were overheated. Also the holes should be a little oversize. The screws should fit loosely in the holes. The screws are there to hold the plexi while the sealant cures - do not over tighten them.

When installing the new, with the paper on, have someone hold it in place while you outline the area to be sealed to the fiberglass. Peel back and cut that paper off, leaving the bulk of it it place. Lightly sand the area where the sealant will go. Peel back the remaining paper and make some tabs by overlapping some masking tape. Now you are ready to install.

Use a good glazing silicone. I have used GE Ultraglaze 4000 with good results. Still good more that 20 years later. Clean the fiberglass, apply the sealant, put in place and screw in. Again. not very tight. Clean off the squeeze out and let cure a while. Run a sharp knife around the perimeter of the paper to get a clean edge. Best to do this after the silicone has set up but not fully hard. Then you can remove the paper by pulling on the tabs.