Covering teak deck

[SanSailer]

I have been researching coatings that could cover the teak on my deck, but my situation doesn't quite match the norm so I was hoping someone might have a different idea. As I see it there are three main differences:


1) My teak is attached from underneath; the screws come up from the inside of the cabin through the deck and originally penetrated about 3/4 of the way through the teak strips.


2) My deck (under the teak) is solid laid fiberglass, no coring or ply, and as far as I can tell, fairly thick.


3) As far as I can tell, there are no places on the deck that are currently leaking.


When brand new the deck must have looked very nice, no bung holes just strips of teak with cosmetic caulking. 30 years and many miles under her keel in many places the teak has worn down enough that the tips of the screws are becoming exposed. Not only are the sharp points hard on bare feet, I figure it is just a matter of time before water does start to work its way down the screws.


I know that the best fix would be to strip off all the teak and put down new but what a major job! All the headliners removed, all the overhead lights removed, several built in cabinets removed, the generator moved, etc. just to expose the screw heads.


Ideally I would like to glue or apply something over the teak strips, either more teak or some of the new faux teak. Less ideal would be some thick and anti-slip paint. Any Ideas?

[minaret]

Originally Posted by SanSailer

I have been researching coatings that could cover the teak on my deck, but my situation doesn't quite match the norm so I was hoping someone might have a different idea. As I see it there are three main differences:


1) My teak is attached from underneath; the screws come up from the inside of the cabin through the deck and originally penetrated about 3/4 of the way through the teak strips.


2) My deck (under the teak) is solid laid fiberglass, no coring or ply, and as far as I can tell, fairly thick.


3) As far as I can tell, there are no places on the deck that are currently leaking.


When brand new the deck must have looked very nice, no bung holes just strips of teak with cosmetic caulking. 30 years and many miles under her keel in many places the teak has worn down enough that the tips of the screws are becoming exposed. Not only are the sharp points hard on bare feet, I figure it is just a matter of time before water does start to work its way down the screws.


I know that the best fix would be to strip off all the teak and put down new but what a major job! All the headliners removed, all the overhead lights removed, several built in cabinets removed, the generator moved, etc. just to expose the screw heads.


Ideally I would like to glue or apply something over the teak strips, either more teak or some of the new faux teak. Less ideal would be some thick and anti-slip paint. Any Ideas?

I would remove the teak deck without removing the screws. It's not as hard as it sounds, done it in this situation before. Fasteners from underneath will mostly be in rows; find as many as possible and mark them out. Then set depth of cut on a circular saw to 90% of planking thickness and make cuts around all rows of fasteners. Then use rip hammers and flat bars to remove areas of teak between the rows of fasteners. This will leave you with strips of teak about 2" wide across the deck wherever there is a row of fasteners. You will find this easy to break apart across the grain, leaving you with a teak less glass deck with a couple thousand screw points sticking out. Obviously wear full shank boots and don't trip and fall on the deck at this stage! Next, use a cut off wheel to cut screw as close to flush as possible. Then grind deck for prep, grinding screws flush at the same time. Remove all gel to bare glass. Then apply new glass, layout and paint waterways, apply nonskid, and voila! new deck without touching the interior.

[gts1544]

Just a thought with NO experience! Have you considered some of the pick up truck spray on bed liners that are available? Certainly have non-skid quality!

[zeehag]

what you use to seal the deck will remove the intrinsic nonskid the wood is known for.
might as well remove it and fg the deck and put walnut shell nonskid on the deck.

[Cheechako]

I like Minaret's plan. I covered my decks that I removed the teak from with Treadmaster. If it lessens your work, eliminating repaint etc by using a covering like that it can work well. But there are many options if willing to paint. The problem is, how to cover the exposed screw ends you cut off? If that means reglassing etc, then Treadmaster in lieu of glassing and painting would be a great option sealing over the exposed screw ends.

[minaret]

Originally Posted by Cheechako

I like Minaret's plan. I covered my decks that I removed the teak from with Treadmaster. If it lessens your work, eliminating repaint etc by using a covering like that it can work well. But there are many options if willing to paint. The problem is, how to cover the exposed screw ends you cut off? If that means reglassing etc, then Treadmaster in lieu of glassing and painting would be a great option sealing over the exposed screw ends.

Still gotta paint the waterways. Treadmaster only saves you from applying skid, which is about 10% at most of the job. And that stuff is expensive, and a paint to remove when it goes south, which it does do after a while.

[Suijin]

I had the same plan in mind as Minaret, minus the brilliant circular saw idea.

The teak has to come off, one way or another, period. And there is no reason to remove every last screw from underneath; just pry up the teak from above and reglass and refinish.

Yes it's a big job, but trying to cover over the existing teak deck is a fool's errand.

[Cheechako]

Wild idea... how many are there? How about using a small bit to cut a plug/hole around the screw points that are starting to protrude. Break off the screw near flush. Then put in large teak plugs...? Is there a bit that would work? Plug cutter?

[Stumble]

First I would adopt Minarets plan. But I wouldn't use a circular saw I would use this as an excuse to buy a Dremel SawMax. They only have a 3/4" max cutting depth (adjustable), but the small size and lightweight means you can get it in places that would be difficult for a larger one.

As for the non-skid, paint is one option, and clearly the standard, but I would really recommend replacing the non-skid with HydroTurff. It's a non-skid foam with a a PSA on one side, and is far more comfortable than any non-skid and works great, helps insulate the boat, deadens noise inside, and goes down like a giant sticker.

[minaret]

Originally Posted by Cheechako

Wild idea... how many are there? How about using a small bit to cut a plug/hole around the screw points that are starting to protrude. Break off the screw near flush. Then put in large teak plugs...? Is there a bit that would work? Plug cutter?

Yep, plug cutter would do it. But I bet this deck is too thin and railed out too, plus that would be a whole lotta huge bungs! IMHE, when I pull a deck of that vintage, there often isn't a lot of bond to the substrate. Usually they lay the teak right over molded skid at the factory without even dewaxing. Plus teak sucks, pull that crap and have a prettier boat that's easier to maintain!

[minaret]

Originally Posted by Stumble

First I would adopt Minarets plan. But I wouldn't use a circular saw I would use this as an excuse to buy a Dremel SawMax. They only have a 3/4" max cutting depth (adjustable), but the small size and lightweight means you can get it in places that would be difficult for a larger one.

As for the non-skid, paint is one option, and clearly the standard, but I would really recommend replacing the non-skid with HydroTurff. It's a non-skid foam with a a PSA on one side, and is far more comfortable than any non-skid and works great, helps insulate the boat, deadens noise inside, and goes down like a giant sticker.

Sawmax rocks, but for the record it IS a circular saw, a 3" I believe. I usually use a 5" for this sort of thing. You need a Fein saw for corners anyhow.

[Stumble]

Originally Posted by minaret

Sawmax rocks, but for the record it IS a circular saw, a 3" I believe. I usually use a 5" for this sort of thing. You need a Fein saw for corners anyhow.

Good to know, I have been listing after the sawmax for a while for some detail detail work and heard good things for detail work.

[minaret]

Originally Posted by Stumble

Good to know, I have been listing after the sawmax for a while for some detail detail work and heard good things for detail work.

I use this. It has HP for it's size.


https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GTEU0M4...7I5V9OF3&psc=1

[minaret]

And then there's the in the yard option. The Kett Saw. Too pricey for the average user but super nice for corner cuts. Electric or pneumatic.


https://www.amazon.com/Kett-KSV-432-...words=kett+saw


https://www.amazon.com/Kett-PS-526-P...words=kett+saw


Max depth of cut is only 3/8" but it will cut ANYTHING-FAST!

[chris95040]

Originally Posted by Cheechako

Wild idea... how many are there? How about using a small bit to cut a plug/hole around the screw points that are starting to protrude. Break off the screw near flush. Then put in large teak plugs...? Is there a bit that would work? Plug cutter?

I like this idea.

When I unf@&ked my teak deck (removed, restored and reattached without fasteners) a lot of the fasteners were corroded and busted. To remove the plank without breaking it I had to separate it from the stuck fastener.

I started using a plug cutter because you could do it nicely with no guide, but I was constantly sharpening it (harbor freight cheapo, probably). I ended up switching to a 5/8" hole saw with no pilot and cut a hole in a piece of hardwood to use as a guide.

In any event, I think this plan could work, but you'd have to think about how you'll break off the screw (small vice grips?) and what to do if the lack of a fastener causes the plank to lift (fasten from the top?)

Dealing with a handful of these in problem areas might kick this job down the road significantly... Not bad especially since you don't have core to worry about if you do spring a leak.

Btw- I wonder if the uncored deck will be too bouncy with the teak removed...