So after having coppercoated my 40 foot Hanse two years ago with a little mixed experience - I’ve been reading up heavily and want to try to sum up my understanding of how coppercoat actually works. I realize there’s been tons of posts before (and I’ve read most of them). It’s also clear that real-life performance varies greatly. Still no one really puts it all together from the theoretical side (rather than application, treatment etc.) Being a nerd at heart, I need to understand the workings of something in order to be able to
work with it properly.
Comments are welcomed off course - but please try to be specific? Where exactly am I wrong (or correct) in my understanding? And please stick to the topic? Pretty please?
Here goes:
Coppercoat inhibits fouling in two ways: By exposing copper to seawater for oxidation, thus releasing biocides AND by producing a smooth, slippery surface that’s difficult for
marine growth to hang on too. I believe BOTH these requirements must be met in order to achieve the “success story efficacy” that some are boasting.
- Copper as a biocide:
- The special epoxy allows for a very limited degradation/leeching, producing a minor copper exposure and oxidation even without abrading the surface. This will only suffice if the surface is smooth AND fouling conditions are low or moderate.
- By sanding/burnishing the surface lightly, more copper is exposed. This is sufficient for many happy customers.
- However: With a less than smooth surface and/or in heavy fouling conditions, the amount of copper leeched through the epoxy will just not be enough compared to traditional copper-based anti-fouling paints.
- The slippery surface:
- People with successful applications talk about a slippery, smooth surface. In particular, the Sailing Britican folks comment on this difference after their final and successful application.
- Marine growth loves tiny cracks, scratches etc. to find foothold for colonization. Since the CC releases Copper biocides at a very low rate (accounting for the long durability), a less than smooth surface will be enough to tip the scales in favor of fouling in high growth conditions.
- A less than perfect application will produce a more uneven surface before sanding.
- Sanding with rougher than 320grit paper produces tiny scratches and may end up increasing the ease of colonization rather than decreasing it.
- Sanding an entire hull down from “rough” to “smooth” with 320grit paper is virtually undoable, requiring hundreds of work-hours with a random orbital sander. Thus - a good base application seems to be a requirement for a good end result.
- A certain “orange peel” surface is common, making it hard to sand sufficiently to expose copper even in the “bottoms”.
- In “Sailing Britican’s final application video” they use epoxy only (no copper) in the first layer. This may be a good trick to secure a smooth surface.
Thanks for reading all the way through! Please do point out exactly where I may be at fault in my understanding?