Compounding / Polishing Awlgrip

[DHooper]

I have an 8 year old Awlgrip Flag Blue paint job with minor oxidation on the transom. 3M has a light compounding and polishing system called 3M Perfect-it. Awlgrip doesn't have a solution for oxidation removal other than their Awlcare and curious if anyone has used 3M Perfect -It on Awlgrip G/H line of topcoats? If so, what were the results? Thanks for taking the time!

[slugsgomoo]

I used the stuff from Griots Garage on mine and it came out really well. I took the oxidation off as gently as I could, and then ceramic coated it. So far it's held up for a year. I'm going to see if I can wash & re-apply here in a few weeks and keep it going

[psk125]

Make sure anyone who says they used compound was using it on Awlgrip, not some other paint or gelcoat. Awlgrip is absolutely adamant about not using any sort of abrasive on their product. It would seem that doing so damages the hard outer layer of the paint, exposing the underlayers, which are more porous. This enables dirt and stains to permeate the paint.
Ceramic coating Awlgrip after compounding it may create a new hard layer and be effective that way, but it does not sound like a cheap experiment without risks.

[S/V Illusion]

This is one of those -if you have to ask, you don’t know how -questions.

The folks who maintain our Awlgrip finish can and have successfully buffed out an abrasion which occurred because of improper sling placement when last hauled.

It can be done without permanent damage but not by anyone who doesn’t know how.

[DHooper]

Good Morning and thanks. Just want to confirm you have the Awlgrip G/H topcoat which isn't buffable according to Awlgrip compared to the Awlcraft 2000 which is buffable. If the former, do you know which compound was used? Thx!

[DHooper]

Yes, that's the issue. Most folks buff out their Awlcraft with Perfect-It without consequence. Awlgrip G/H topcoat is much less forgiving and I'm leaning to not taking the chance. Slight transom oxidation after 8 years is normal wear and tear.

[GordMay]

Do not use traditional waxes, on Awlgrip paint.
Awlgrip has developed Awlcare Protective Polymer Sealer for those who want to enhance their finish and need the additional cleaning power of a hand applied, dry wash product.
• Do not use abrasives, scratch pads or polishing compounds.
Scratching the surface gives dirt a place to cling while wearing out the resin layer. Using abrasives of any kind will reduce the overall life of the finish and voids the Awlgrip Limited Warranty.

“MAINTAINING AN AWLGRIP FINISH” ~ by AkzoNobel [manufacturer of Awlgrip paints]
➥ https://www.awlgrip.com/north-americ...awlgrip-finish

“Polishing Awl Grip” ➥ https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums...ip-112061.html

[S/V Illusion]

Originally Posted by DHooper

Good Morning and thanks. Just want to confirm you have the Awlgrip G/H topcoat which isn't buffable according to Awlgrip compared to the Awlcraft 2000 which is buffable. If the former, do you know which compound was used? Thx!

As I said, our topsides is painted with Awlgrip and can be buffed without a problem but only by someone with the knowledge and skill necessary. They used Imperial products to polish and wax the area to which I referred earlier.

As I understand it, the key to doing it properly is to ensure the topcoat layer temperature threshold isn’t exceeded so as to preclude damage to the paint. Not difficult but then most DIY boaters aren’t very meticulous, i.e., it isn’t “idiot-proof”, hence the warning from the paint manufacturer.

[Nicholson58]

Originally Posted by psk125

Make sure anyone who says they used compound was using it on Awlgrip, not some other paint or gelcoat. Awlgrip is absolutely adamant about not using any sort of abrasive on their product. It would seem that doing so damages the hard outer layer of the paint, exposing the underlayers, which are more porous. This enables dirt and stains to permeate the paint.
Ceramic coating Awlgrip after compounding it may create a new hard layer and be effective that way, but it does not sound like a cheap experiment without risks.

This is exactly what I was told and their literature confirms it. They don’t want you to abrasively attack new or old Awl Grip.

First try any of the non abrasive materials used to clean salt and calcium deposits from your hull.

I have noticed in the Caribbean that blue seems to fade or possibly show marine deposits more so than other colors. Last resort is abrasive polish. Standard off season hard storage in the Caribbean is a cleaning followed by heavy wax. The wax is left in place as a UV blocker until you are ready to launch.

8 years is getting old for paint. You may be looking at a re-do. If you are in Trinidad, Power Boats professionals do an excellent job at way less than the east coast. $5000 for our 58 foot ketch.

[donradcliffe]

I have seen professionals lightly buff freshly applied awlgrip, but after 8 years, its a no no.

[keepondancin]

I have used 3M Finesse-it on my old Flag Blue Awl-gripped Bristol several times, and it cleaned up nicely. Followed up with Awlcare finish. Used buffer and sheepskin pad. Just be careful at the edge where the sides meet the transom, paint is thinner at the apex of the angle.

[DHooper]

Thanks to all for your thoughts and experiences! I may hand buff an obscure sample area below my swim platform to test the finish before risking the whole transom. Will advise once complete.

[HankOnthewater]

Originally Posted by DHooper

I have an 8 year old Awlgrip Flag Blue paint job with minor oxidation on the transom. 3M has a light compounding and polishing system called 3M Perfect-it. Awlgrip doesn't have a solution for oxidation removal other than their Awlcare and curious if anyone has used 3M Perfect -It on Awlgrip G/H line of topcoats? If so, what were the results? Thanks for taking the time!

I was told the hull on my boat was painted with Awlgrip. I polished that approx 7 years ago using the 3M as per photo. The current 3M product comes in a slightly oval shaped black bottles. That is easier to hold and fit in a belt pouch. At that time paint was at least 8 to 10 years old, maybe older. I just doing now another polish. Again with good result. I am using a cordless 7" buffer. After the polish I applied wax without silicone.

I used the info below as a guideline:
https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums...ss-142790.html
https://forums.sailboatowners.com/th...ff-wax.117266/

But when reading the Gord post of Akzo-Nobel, I have been doing it wrong.

[DHooper]

Thanks for the very comprehensive review of buffing and polishing gelcoat. I have used many of the referenced products with great success on Gelcoat but never on Awlgrip. The Awlcraft product is buffable but I suggest that some of the 3M products are a bit to aggressive even for Awlcraft. Glad you had success on your Awlgrip and appreciate you taking the time!

[GordMay]

Originally Posted by DHooper

... The Awlcraft product is buffable but I suggest that some of the 3M products are a bit to aggressive even for Awlcraft...

Thanks. I didn't know that.


AWLCRAFT® SE REPAIR MANUAL ➥ https://www.merrittsupply.com/wp-con...air-Manual.pdf

Originally Posted by AkzoNobel

“Awlcraft SE ...
... when topcoated with Awlcraft 2000 High Gloss Clear (F3029) is not only a high gloss, robust metallic topcoat system but is also repairable and buffable...