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Wilyum · 19-09-2021, 05:09

Below are some pictures of the hull on my 1983 CL14. The paint is still original, and my plan is to fair the hull, sand it down then repaint. What would the finishing paint be on these old dinghies, marine paint? Gelcoat only? Same question for the center board, after fairing and sanding what should I finish it with? Thanks

Spot · 19-09-2021, 08:25

If you want to see how I am re-doing my rudder as ideas for your centerboard:
https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums...ml#post3451394

For painting (the assumed) gel coat hull and taped stripe I will have to defer to others as I have not done that yet myself.

Cheechako · 19-09-2021, 08:52

2 part poly is the thing. Most one part paints start flaking off readily. One wonders if one of those cheap auto repaint places like Maaco would paint that for a couple hundred bucks?

dfelsent · 19-09-2021, 09:01

Two part poly is great stuff, but please use an appropriate respirator. It’s nasty.
Prep, prime, sand, roll and tip.
90% of the effort in a good finish is the prep.

Two part varnish is also astonishingly durable. The same safety caveats apply.

**TrentePieds** · 19-09-2021, 09:16

There is no need to make mountains out of molehills if you are dry-sailing your CL14.

In days of yore we used "marine enamel", and the preferred brand was International Paints. Then the EPA stuck their finger in the pie and made oil based enamels almost unobtainable, although I believe that they can still be obtained in the USA as well as Canada. Go here for information about current products:

https://www.interlux.com/en/us/boat-...topcoat-finish

"Premium Yacht Enamel" is what I would use for a dry-sailed dinghy whether a "frozen snot" boat or a plywood one.

But be aware that a lot the claims for paints are just marketing hype. "Tremclad" brand oil based enamel should be available at your local hardware store at a price rather less than the crème de la crème items available from Interlux.

Tremclad makes "enamel" of two chemistries. One is water based, which you can tell by the fact that instructions on the can call for clean-up with water and soap. The other is what you want - the oil based one that calls for cleanup with "mineral spirits", i.e. "paint thinner". You can tell the latter also by the fact that the label also carries a prominent "skull and crossbones" right on the front. Good ole EPA again :-)!

MySaintedMother taught me that you needn't be afraid of oil based paints - or even "white lead varnish". You are not s'posed to drink it, she said. And of course she took it for granted that I would keep my hands and tools scrupulously clean while working with it.

Your local recycling depot will accept left-over paint and clean-up materials.

Have fun - and stay clean :-)!

TrentePieds