Cetol and 2 Part Polyurethane Varnish

[Cheechako]

with salt water dousing and done often enough, and enough sun, it should stay a light tan with maybe a hint of silver in it. I was anchored next to an old salt in Georgetown who got up every morning, grabbed the bucket-with-lanyard and started his morning ritual of dousing the teak.

[minaret]

Originally Posted by s/v Beth

Ok guys, my brightwork with was done with two part is bubbling and turning black/grey. I need to do something now. What is the quickest way to get two part polyurthane completely off?
HELP!!

I find that if you let it go that far, removing the remaining two part is the least of your troubles. You will have to sand the teak back to fresh clean wood anyway, and that will require more aggressive sanding than removing the remaining material ever would. I generally start with 40 grit and a longboard myself. It'll remove any remaining product in no time, but you really have to scrub to get down to fresh teak. Doing this with anything but a longboard and hard blocks for small stuff will almost certainly cause you to end up with an unfair surface which you might not really notice until the final coats cause the very high gloss to make any unfairness really stand out. Of course then it is much too late to do anything about and you will have to live with your wobbly looking finish. The slightest unfairness will be really obvious in a quality finish. In our yard we often longboard to 180 grit for a really museum quality finish. This is what we call the "lamborghini" finish. At each stage of fairing I check the guys board work. If you put a fairing batten on the work surface and then attempt to insert a piece of sandpaper of the grit which you are presently fairing in under the batten, you should not be able to do so. That gives you some idea of the standard of fairness being acheived when you board to 180 grit-a piece of 180 paper is not allowed to fit under the smooth batten anywhere. Of course this is only to acheive the very highest level of finish. 30k or more is not an uncommon bill for brightwork with some of our clients. Sometimes we will also take fairing to these extremes for extremely high end paint jobs as well, but you can get away with a lot more when working with LP. A good quality varnish job is totally unforgiving in the fairing dept.

[s/v Beth]

I think you guys have misunderstood the problem. The problem is- the topsides and deck teak were looking a bit used last year, so I asked some professionals to redo it with two part poly. Now the two part poly is showing wood that is blotched and turning black and grey. I agree they must not have prepped properly. But I have new two part over bad prep. I looked on the net and it says I can use heat, MC stripper or sanding to get it off in order to get to the teak and start over. This will be at the dock (albeit and old one) and I don't want to hurt any fishes....
Will my teak rot away under that poly?

[lateral]

G'day ppl,
My experience with sikkens cetol in a place with at least the number of wet'n dry cycles
as a boat, is that it is vastly overated. This is on cedar joinery within 200m of the rarely
still, tasman sea. We have have had the rep out to multiple sites over a ten yr period, to try and emulate the results they espouse. No luck.
Seems there is no majic bullet for clear coating timber, and, imo sikkens is well down on the list. Especially as it is colored and is not particularly good at enhancing depth of grain. Recoat requirement is 18mnths max.

I hear no mention of west 105 with 207 for a base coat & then Awlbrite top coat?
Anyone able to relate the durability of this combo?
Obviously there aint no getting away from 6+ topcoats.

Also, anyone used Uroxsys?
Uroxsys Ltd: Home Page
View topic - VARNISH (Uroxsys?) | The Classic Yacht Association of New Zealand

I am shortly having to make a decision on my teak & rosawa trim. Grey off, or clear coat. Opting for greying off, with, perhaps regular "wetnforget" mould control.

[Ocean Girl]

No the teak won't rot away. You can leave it like that and all that will happen is the mold will spread, teak does not usually rot.

It does sound like they did not allow the morning dew to dry off proper before starting the first coat and moisture was trapped in the finish. So sorry newt, the only fix is to start over. Heat gun is ok, since it is compromised, should come off nicely. Use a fresh scraper, sand to round the edge of the scraper blades to protect from accidental gouging of the wood.


Please no bristles on the wood to get the mold out. Just get the bad two part finish off, lite scrub with a 3M pad ( white 3Mpad or sponge is best) and Tide with bleach ( powder), and then a nice salt bath, give her a day or two to rest and see what you have.


When and if you are ready to put a finish on her.
Wash her down with big sudsy bucket of murphy's oil soap and fresh water, let wood dry overnight.
wipe down with denatured alcohol after dew has dried
light 320-360 sand if needed ( I'm assuming the previous workers got the wood properly smooth) this sanding is just to address the grain you raised from washing/ water exposure.
Wipe again with denatured alcohol and then a tack rag
Tape off area or use painters edge
Start your first coat of whatever

Sorry for your troubles,
Erika

[Ocean Girl]

PS
And to shock all the purist out there, yes, you can coat the whole mess with cetol( though I'd do a test spot . )

[AuroraGH]

This all just reaffirms my belief that there is no better product yet for covering britework than good old spar varnish.

[bobconnie]

I find white two part paint works really well on teak for us !! LOL We hate teak in the worst way !! Ive made good money over the years varnishing others teak, but the only teak I really want is below decks! If its above decks it gets painted LOL just a old tired of varnish sailors 2 cents

[AuroraGH]

Originally Posted by bobconnie

I find white two part paint works really well on teak for us !! LOL

Yes, one of these years I'll get serious and make sure I have a solid 30 coats of varnish followed by one coat of paint. Taking off a coat of paint and adding a new gloss coat is easy for when I want to sell her and make her all sexy again.

[s/v Beth]

Just for interests sake, how long do you get on a coat of paint?

[Ocean Girl]

Newt, a good one part paint should last a couple years. BUT your painted varnish may peel up due to the moisture contamination of the base coat.....sorry
Does it look that bad? Can ya just be happy with it the way it is, or spot repair?
E

[s/v Beth]

I will get a picture of it for this thread. It's really bad Erica, kinda like nightmares bad. Looks like the dog repeatively urinated on the linoleum floor and it was left for a couple of months. People who don't even know me come over to take a look at he woodwork