CeRam-kote barrier coating reviews?

[Debgen]

I have used ceram-kote 99m since 2001. I have applied to 3 of my own fiberglass boats and helped (no pay) on over 10 others. It is easy to apply. dries at over 4 mils per coat and is pretty much bullet proof. very difficult to sand off. If you follow directions to the letter especially mixing you will have no issues with application. Let last coat be tacky and apply first coat of antifouling. I have also used interlux products and be sorely disappoint by the time and number of coats required and cost.

[Orion Jim]

Originally Posted by Scrimshaw4

Believe it or not, Sherwin Williams makes an outstanding 2 part epoxy barrier coat. It was originally developed for the military in 5 gal drums, but is now available in 1 gal cans. This product is what is primarily used in our area by the "blister fixer" companies. Had mine done 9 years ago after Interlux 2000 failed! Dry to this day. JMHO

In what manner did the InterProtect fail? Was it applied according to their instructions?

[tomrealest]

I Have a Hatteras Classic that were famous for blistering. After fixing the blisters I used SEA HAWK's Tuff Stuff High-Build Epoxy Primer. Have 6 years in the water with no more blisters. I would use it again.

[Eastward ho 24]

I don’t doubt the plates and the theory of them stacking theoretically or on paper. In my mind I can see that IF you were laying the paint down on a flat surface.but It’s Hard to grasp that the plates would lay flat on one surface, and then as the hul curves at the tumble home they would stack there too, then upside down under the keel theyd switch and stack upside down,then vertical at the waterline all the time different angles. I could see if there was some sort of static drawing them to the hull, or possibly a sponge like affect soaking them into the hull.. just dont see it though. I’m sure there is smarter people here then me, and I hate too critique somthing I know nothing of. Sounds like “ brand specific “ particles suspended in epoxy thinned Down and altered for laymen such as myself for easy application. Sounds like Alot of creative advertising.

What is the paint ShermanWilliams makes?

And for the CeRam Kote people; so you need to apply antifouling while it’s tacky ( or what ever the called for timing is) is that because the paint won’t adhere very well? And if so what happens if you wait a little too long to repaint and a lot of your paint has worn away, or you sand too much will there be a problem withnrecoating?

[Benz]

Originally Posted by Eastward ho 24

I don’t doubt the plates and the theory of them stacking theoretically or on paper. In my mind I can see that IF you were laying the paint down on a flat surface.but It’s Hard to grasp that the plates would lay flat on one surface, and then as the hul curves at the tumble home they would stack there too, then upside down under the keel theyd switch and stack upside down,then vertical at the waterline all the time different angles. I could see if there was some sort of static drawing them to the hull, or possibly a sponge like affect soaking them into the hull.. just dont see it though. I’m sure there is smarter people here then me, and I hate too critique somthing I know nothing of. Sounds like “ brand specific “ particles suspended in epoxy thinned Down and altered for laymen such as myself for easy application. Sounds like Alot of creative advertising.

What is the paint ShermanWilliams makes?

And for the CeRam Kote people; so you need to apply antifouling while it’s tacky ( or what ever the called for timing is) is that because the paint won’t adhere very well? And if so what happens if you wait a little too long to repaint and a lot of your paint has worn away, or you sand too much will there be a problem withnrecoating?

FWIW: with marine epoxy barrier coats, you're usually supposed to apply bottom paint while tacky as well, or sand with 80-grit (Total Boat, at any rate). I found the ceram-kote extremely difficult to sand off when we needed a touch-up (again, super-high abrasion area). If the price is right, use it carefully, apply according to directions, and be ready to burn through a lot of paper if you ever need to sand it.

[travellerw]

There was an article written by a big magazine about Ceram-kote. Unfortunately I can't seem to find it right now (I look some more later).

The gist of the article was about using Ceram-kote only with no bottom paint. Simply relying on the "slickness" of the Ceram-kote. Turned out that it worked for a while. Depending on the location it lasted between 1-2 years. Unfortunatley after it failed as a antifoul it was a bugger to deal with as you couldn't simply paint right over it with new antifoul.

I have also read a few blogs of people using it as a barrier coat (applying bottom paint when tacky). Other than the logistics (having everything ready to top coat), everyone seemed happy!

[travellerw]

This wasn't the article I was thinking of.. But I think the OP will find it useful.

https://caseagrant.ucsd.edu/sites/de...ifoulingII.pdf

[hellosailor]

Eastward-
Why can bugs walk on water? Surface tension. That force alone is strong enough to support many bugs. And there's some kind of white goo that has a similar effect which is actually so strong that if a person RUNS across the top--they don't sink in either.
So imagine if you were a bug stuck in a very thin film of water, surface tension pushing you from both sides. That should be enough to repel the plates until the "push" on them was equalized, which would leave them parallel with the surfaces. Leaving them stacked. It is just he most balanced position for "flakes", whether it is static force or surface tension, whatever. For that matter, why do leaves always fall flat in the forest?(G)
Although the folks who make MetalFlake auto paints will gladly explain to you why two paint jobs never match, unless you spray the flake additive exactly the same way both times.

If you have ever applied duct tape over uncured epoxy, I can assure you that it binds to the epoxy very much better than it would stick to cured epoxy. In fact, it usually can't be pulled off intact. That same bonding would explain why barrier coat makers want the bottom paint applied when the same thing is likely to occur. Not that you can't get paint to stick to cured epoxy, but there's a whole lot more bonding during the cure.

There's never a nano-technology engineer around when you need one, is there?(G)