Can't remove wheel (Edson)

[jordanbigel]

Originally Posted by stormalong

Remove the shaft from the pedestal before you damage the pedestal. Once the steering chain is off it is pretty easy to knock out the pin that holds the sprocket to the shaft. If you do not have the original documentation Edson should be able to provide it. After all those years you should completely disassemble the pedestal and inspect it anyway. A machine shop can heat the hub and press out the shaft.

Yeah, I'm starting to think this is the way forward. My plan from the start was to completely disassemble the pedestal (and have it sand blasted/powder coated) so I think this is the logical next step. So far the wheel remains stuck...

[Scubaseas]

Originally Posted by bongo

I agree with lubricating the threads of the puller, using Kroil or PB Blaster on the hub/shaft, and a sharp wack with a hammer on the end of the pullers screw. As for lubricant on the hub/shaft, and using heat at the same time: merchant marine engineers use beeswax. It will not burn out until up near 900 degrees, it wicks down into the tight fit with heat.
We prep bolts/studs/nuts for a few days before disassembly, and, usually, with a very good outcome.

This x2

[George DuBose]

Once you get the wheel off the axle or both removed from the pedestal, I would replace the needle bearings, clean and regrease everything.

When I had Skylark, one Spring after she was left in the water for the winter, I couldn't turn the wheel. I thought that ice had bent the rudder shaft.

It was only aluminum oxide from the pedestal filling the bearings. No one had serviced or lubed the bearings in 37 years.!!!

[zstine]

Penetrating oil takes a long time. If you have time, spray it daily for a week or two weeks even and that will help.. get it hot! NOT Propane torch hot. that's just useless child's play. You need MAP gas at minimum, but acetylene would likely make short order of your problem... And don't be afraid of putting a lot of torque on that puller. I've used a 3 foot pipe on the end of a wrench to get enough torque. And yes, banging on the end of the puller will help things release.. Just be careful with the banging and heat so you don't end up having to remove the whole pedestal!

[Awfourni]

Originally Posted by jordanbigel

I've got a stuck wheel on an Edson Pedestal. The nut came off easy enough, but the wheel itself will not budge.

I've got it under pressure with a gear puller attached and I can't make it any tighter. It's been under pressure for 6 hours so far, roughly, and Ive sprayed PB Blaster onto the shaft/into the threads as best I can 2 or 3 times already. There appears to be a key-way, but I don't see a key - it's fairly rusty looking. The wheel has not been removed in about 21 years (the boat is a 1984).

There is nowhere I can hit it with a mallet - there is no way to reach the hub from the front because there is a monitor wheel adapter between the wheel hub and the pedestal, as seen here.

I also tried heating the hub while it was under pressure from the puller, but that was before I started with the JB Blaster - didn't work. My plan now is to leave it under pressure over night and in the AM hit it with the PB Blaster again and see if I can tighten it a little more. And then wait an hour and try the heat again.

What else could I try short of taking a hydraulic jack hammer to it?

Is there any logic to releasing the puller and then tightening it again - maybe so I can lube up the threaded rod a bit?

Use dry ice to cool shaft, while using torch on hub. Leave bearing puller on, and it should pop off.

[sinnerman]

Focus on the square key in the keyway.

It is probably corroded (it is most likely carbon steel, not stainless).

Spray your PB there.

Get a pin punch and tap the end of the key.

As a last resort you can disassemble the pedestal, removing the retaining pin of the sprocket to the shaft, and pull the wheel with the shaft out of the pedestal as an assembly.

Then take it to a machine shop and have the shaft pressed out of the wheel.

cheers

[AKA-None]

Remember that heating expand things so any heat that gets to the shaft will start expanding it along with the hub
So heating the hub and removal needs to happen before the shaft gets hot