Building a new swim platform

[JstaRebel]

I have a teak swim platform on the back of of my motorsailer. It's been there since 1990 and getting towards it's life expectancy but Ive repaired it more than once. So when faced with either totally rebuilding the teak platform or making a new one, I choose to build a new one. We had a 4x10ft sheet of 1" fiberglass industrial grating at on of our water plants, so I decided to use that for the new platform. I just took the old platform off and used it for a template to cut out the new one. Then using a jigsaw, we cut out the shape, ground down the ribs until the edge fit perfectly and fiberglassed the edging on. The photos below show the front and back complete, but I laid up the side pieces today. Hoping to have it on the boat next week and attaching the ladders and such. Now my question; the outside edge should have a rounded edge on it. My first thought was using wood and attaching it with epoxy before fiberglassing over it but I'd have to get it on St.Martin. any other ideas on what else to use ?

[Sailmonkey]

3/4" pvc pipe cut in half and glassed over?

[jimbunyard]

I'd go with teak, 1" x 1" or so, edge-glued and counter-sunk bolted into the fabricated grid (not the strip you've glued on).

If you wanna go complete synthetic, maybe some of that plastic decking material? Might not be available in St. Marten though...

As for glassing over it, seems like an exercise in frustration. If you use epoxy you have to paint it to avoid UV deterioration. If you use polyester (which may not be possible if the grate itself is made from epoxy, which it may very well be) you have adhesion problems whether you use wood, PVC or plastic decking, not to mention having to either paint or gelcoat it...

Just out of curiosity, have you given the grate itself the 'soggy barefoot' test?

[JstaRebel]

I'd thought about PVC pipe, but reality is that glass doesn't really take to it well and considering how much use the platform gets, I didn't figure it was a good idea. I did use PVC when making my hard top and glassed over it for strength and also to pull wire through. It worked well, but it doesn't get beat on like it would on the back of the platform.

The flat edging I glassed up is from the boarders of the full sheet itself, so it's the same material as the grating. I wanted a good flat surface with no sharp edges going around the entire platform. It also gives a nice mounting surface I figured. Going to be painting it white anyway. Never thought about using teak on the outside. Considering it's the same size as my original teak platform, I could just bolt up a rounded edge of teak taken from the original platform to the outside edge and bung the screw holes. Not a bad idea.

I walk on this same grating in our Desal plants every day, so I did actually do a soggy foot test on it. This is another reason that I chose this material as it already has anti skid on it. It's also the reason I'm going to be prime and paint it. I may also knock down the anti skid so.e with a sanding disk before painting. I'll have to paint a small piece of grating and see how it changes the feel of the anti skid.

[UNCIVILIZED]

What about using round stainless tubing bolted to it's perimeter, or even square tubing? You'd need to have it pre-bent first, but I'd think it would work. With the perks of needing less maintenance, & being more resistant to dock rash.

That, or there are various composite, rubber & plastic, fender rails systems that would probably work. And they come in all kinds of cross section profiles. Plus again, they'll have the perks akin to that of stainless, above.

[Steadman Uhlich]

A simple solution: cut off the side ends to the point where there is a long straight edge, eliminating that jagged edge of partial cells, to leave the straight edge, then sand that to smooth.

You won't lose much grate, but you would remove those partial cells, which look unsightly.

I think it would look better than PVC pipe, epoxied strips, etc. it would also be integral, without needing any weakening and possibly corroding fasteners or glues or a different material to finish the edge on those sides. Simple. Trim can snag things, fall off, or look cheesy, depending upon the craftsmanship and materials used.

Keep it simple.

[JstaRebel]

The unfinished edges you see we're finished with the same edging as is on the front and back. Turned out good too with the corners coming together nicely. I'll post new photos of the completed edging later today. It's just the outside edge that I'm worried about as I'm not liking the flat edge on the outside. I think a rounded edge may be better. The stainless pipe would be perfect, but difficult to attach a round pipe to a flat edge. I could have incorporated it into before glassing up the edging but to late now.

[Three Sisters]

And then you could use the flat edging to make the contour on each end, seal the under sections and fill in around the edging with a thickened flood coat

[UNCIVILIZED]

Originally Posted by JstaRebel

The unfinished edges you see we're finished with the same edging as is on the front and back. Turned out good too with the corners coming together nicely. I'll post new photos of the completed edging later today. It's just the outside edge that I'm worried about as I'm not liking the flat edge on the outside. I think a rounded edge may be better. The stainless pipe would be perfect, but difficult to attach a round pipe to a flat edge. I could have incorporated it into before glassing up the edging but to late now.

- Bolt pipe into place.
- Seal underside area between pipe & grate edge.
- Fill gap from above with structurally thickened epoxy. Using milled fibers to thicken it to be a bit less viscous than peanut butter.
- Allow to cure. And if needed, flip it over, & repeat above to fill any left over gaps.

Or, have stainless half round welded onto flat stock, L-channel, or U-channel. Then bolt in place.
Also, something similar to this could be done using flat fiberglass batten stock, & casting your own reinforced half-round section(s).

[Three Sisters]

Originally Posted by JstaRebel

I'd thought about PVC pipe, but reality is that glass doesn't really take to it well and considering how much use the platform gets, I didn't figure it was a good idea. I did use PVC when making my hard top and glassed over it for strength and also to pull wire through. It worked well, but it doesn't get beat on like it would on the back of the platform.

The flat edging I glassed up is from the boarders of the full sheet itself, so it's the same material as the grating. I wanted a good flat surface with no sharp edges going around the entire platform. It also gives a nice mounting surface I figured. Going to be painting it white anyway. Never thought about using teak on the outside. Considering it's the same size as my original teak platform, I could just bolt up a rounded edge of teak taken from the original platform to the outside edge and bung the screw holes. Not a bad idea.

I walk on this same grating in our Desal plants every day, so I did actually do a soggy foot test on it. This is another reason that I chose this material as it already has anti skid on it. It's also the reason I'm going to be prime and paint it. I may also knock down the anti skid so.e with a sanding disk before painting. I'll have to paint a small piece of grating and see how it changes the feel of the anti skid.

If an outer rounded edge is the desired end result, this could be done by filling all the gaps immediately adjacent to the outer edge, then proceeding with a round-over bit and router along the upper and lower edges, paint n' go.

[SouthernPride]

Build storage boxes above the sides if the platform with a lower lip covering those jagged edges.

Another thought is to find a old teak outdoor table for sale. Cut the one side to
Equal to your template. If you need it wider find or make a leaf.

[toddster8]

Originally Posted by Three Sisters

If an outer rounded edge is the desired end result, this could be done by filling all the gaps immediately adjacent to the outer edge, then proceeding with a round-over bit and router along the upper and lower edges, paint n' go.

This sounds like a winner to me.

[JstaRebel]

So here are the photos of the side trim attached. The photo with the protruding trim was the worst of the lay ups, and it will clean up well after sanding.

[JstaRebel]

Originally Posted by Three Sisters

If an outer rounded edge is the desired end result, this could be done by filling all the gaps immediately adjacent to the outer edge, then proceeding with a round-over bit and router along the upper and lower edges, paint n' go.

This is exactly what I was leaning towards, as Im going to have some fairing work to do anyway, but I have also been pondering the idea of running a piece of rub rail channel around the thing with a rope insert too. Just don't know yet which is why I'm looking for suggestions. BTW, Thanks for the suggestion .

[Sailorbob8599]

Originally Posted by JstaRebel

This is exactly what I was leaning towards, as Im going to have some fairing work to do anyway, but I have also been pondering the idea of running a piece of rub rail channel around the thing with a rope insert too. Just don't know yet which is why I'm looking for suggestions. BTW, Thanks for the suggestion .

Before you go to all that work, didja do what Jim suggested in post #3? . . . ie: "Just out of curiosity, have you given the grate itself the 'soggy barefoot' test?"
'Twould be a real bummer to find you can't stand on it with wet feet after putting so much effort into building it.